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    Member 97 Rep Points Sessantacinque's Avatar
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    Engine compartment air inlet

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    This is what I've done to improve the air inlet in the engine compartment.

    I've deleted all those plastic parts which blocked the air entrance in the compartment.
    The car radiator now takes lot of air, thanks to the A/C radiator removal.

    Another pic better shows:

    https://ibb.co/m35c49
    2015 FiST, track day car.
    Frozen white, stock engine and engine control unit, BMC air panel, Eibach springs kit.
    Rear seats, plastic rear panels deleted.

  2. #2
    Member 137 Rep Points anticon's Avatar
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    It seems like the air is just going to go around the radiator now. I assumed the plastic and deflectors keep the air going through the radiator and not around it. It seems the removal of the A/C heat exchanger will open up the surface area to the radiator though so maybe it balances out?
    2017 Magnetic, Smoke Recaros, Red Calipers, Cravenspeed "Stubby Antenna", Ford ST Floor Mats, no-pistons Dead Pedal, Matte Black Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 15x8 Wheels, Continental ExtremeContact Sport 205/50/15 Tires, Gorilla 21133BC 12mm x 1.5" Black Lug Nuts, XPEL Ultimate Front PPF, XPEL Prime HP Tint, Yellow Lamin-X Fog Light Covers, Auxbeam F-16 LED Fog Light Bulbs, AWR 88a RMM, Swift R-Spec Springs, Bilstein B8 Shocks, SPC XR 81250 Camber Bolts, Damond OCC w/ VTA, ST Octane Academy Badges, Ford ST Carbon Shift Knob, Mojo Short Shift, Mojo Shifter Extension, Expansion Plug Symposer Delete, COBB AP V3, Rally Armor Grey Mudflaps, K&N Air Filter, NGK LTR7IX-11 6510 Spark Plugs, MTC Intercooler, Depo Hot Side Charge Pipe, CFM Valve Cover Breather, Pierce Lower Chassis Brace, Ramair Induction Hose, 2014-15 Evap Lines (D2BZ-9C047-E), Go Fast Bits DV+, Mountune Induction Upgrade Kit.

    Planned Build: Crossover Pipe, Shifter Bushings, Mount Inserts

  3. #3
    Senior Member 284 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner Perfblue15's Avatar
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    This honestly looks like it would hurt cooling more then it would help it. All the plastic shrouding in the front of the car is meant to funnel air into the factory heat exchangers. I would not be surprised of this caused more overheating issues with your vehicle.




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    2015 Perf blue ST1: Current mods: Cobb; APV3, and rmm, Mishimoto;Catch Can, Oil cooler, and radiator, Bilstien Coilovers, Turbosmart BOV, Tial MVS EWG, Deadhook: symposer delete, Head studs, Gen 2 360R turbo kit, and race intercooler kit, CPE Intake, Custom 3 inch exhaust, Stratified Port Aux Fuel , TTR Mounts, 15x8 Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 Wheels, 225/45R15 Toyo R1R tires, TB K-member, chassis and Trans tunnel braces, Pierce 4pt brace, Euro Headlights, Mountune;splitter, Brake lines, Race engine internal kit and oil control, Fiesta RS Spoiler, Recaro Interior swap and much more I'm probaby forgetting.
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    Member 97 Rep Points Sessantacinque's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anticon View Post
    It seems like the air is just going to go around the radiator now. I assumed the plastic and deflectors keep the air going through the radiator and not around it. It seems the removal of the A/C heat exchanger will open up the surface area to the radiator though so maybe it balances out?
    What You said is right
    However I can say that before my...lightening work, the engine heated up a lot, after I noticed an exponential improvement
    2015 FiST, track day car.
    Frozen white, stock engine and engine control unit, BMC air panel, Eibach springs kit.
    Rear seats, plastic rear panels deleted.

  5. #5
    Member 137 Rep Points anticon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sessantacinque View Post
    What You said is right
    However I can say that before my...lightening work, the engine heated up a lot, after I noticed an exponential improvement
    Put some radiator fins on the block and you have a semi-aircooled setup!
    2017 Magnetic, Smoke Recaros, Red Calipers, Cravenspeed "Stubby Antenna", Ford ST Floor Mats, no-pistons Dead Pedal, Matte Black Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 15x8 Wheels, Continental ExtremeContact Sport 205/50/15 Tires, Gorilla 21133BC 12mm x 1.5" Black Lug Nuts, XPEL Ultimate Front PPF, XPEL Prime HP Tint, Yellow Lamin-X Fog Light Covers, Auxbeam F-16 LED Fog Light Bulbs, AWR 88a RMM, Swift R-Spec Springs, Bilstein B8 Shocks, SPC XR 81250 Camber Bolts, Damond OCC w/ VTA, ST Octane Academy Badges, Ford ST Carbon Shift Knob, Mojo Short Shift, Mojo Shifter Extension, Expansion Plug Symposer Delete, COBB AP V3, Rally Armor Grey Mudflaps, K&N Air Filter, NGK LTR7IX-11 6510 Spark Plugs, MTC Intercooler, Depo Hot Side Charge Pipe, CFM Valve Cover Breather, Pierce Lower Chassis Brace, Ramair Induction Hose, 2014-15 Evap Lines (D2BZ-9C047-E), Go Fast Bits DV+, Mountune Induction Upgrade Kit.

    Planned Build: Crossover Pipe, Shifter Bushings, Mount Inserts

  6. #6
    Member 158 Rep Points cxwrench's Avatar
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    I wonder if Ford has any engineers that actually designed that ducting so it worked better than not having it?
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    Senior Member 288 Rep Points Sekred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I wonder if Ford has any engineers that actually designed that ducting so it worked better than not having it?
    I think Ford just had a shit load of plastic lying around that they decided to get rid off.

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    I’m not sure what you are trying to accomplish with that setup. But I trimmed About 1 inch of rubber between the rain gutter and the engine compartment to vent some of the hot air out of the engine particularly in the turbo area. The rain gutter is still a quarter inch deep in that area, so unless it really pours rain The water should not enter the engine bay.

 

 

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