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Thread: 10w30 oil in the FiST
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  1. #11
    Senior Member 1168 Rep Points TyphoonFiST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeeLee View Post
    I would think the thicker oil isn't very good for the turbo.
    Especially when the engine is cold.

    I did fill up my car with 3/4th of 10W30, to get rid of some of my oil for my old car, and added 1/4th of 0W20, just to be on the safe side.
    The oil rating pretty much depends on what you throw at it. So a 25/75 ratio of 0W20 and 10W30, gives you an equal of ~7W27.
    The 7 doesn't do much here in South Florida, and the W27... Supposedly the oil thins out as it gets nearer to the oil change, so I think I'm good.

    With 10W30, I would just make sure you won't start the car below freezing temps too often, unless you're using an engine heater block, and I wouldn't go all out to the redline.
    The oil pump has a lot more stress with W30 oil at higher RPMs, but if it handles W20 oil fine at the 6,5k redline, it will handle W30 oil fine at 4.5-5.5k RPM.
    Most of the time, I don't take the car much above 5k RPM anyway, because the acceleration starts tapering off there anyway.
    I think you should try and run your car off WD-40....Here's a link...give it a whirl...Sounds better than 7w27 oil...

    https://youtu.be/moFzeZKEYSw
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  2. #12
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    I use 5w-30 Castrol Edge gold bottle.

    Never had an issue, and I am not worried I will ever have an issue due to running a thicker oil.



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    The ONLY 10W-30 I personally would ever even think of using in my own FiST, and even then only in our summers here, is the Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30.

    It has the absolute lowest NOACK volitility percentage levels (4.1) I have ever seen on a spec sheet for a multi-viscosity oil, so the best LSPI resistance in that respect (not sure how much calcium and magnesium, or other sulfated ash compounds are in it though , since it is NOT D1G2 rated, as are NONE of the 10W-xx oils), and the base stocks they use will ensure warm weather 'pumpability' on startup, even for a 10W, for the SUMMER season.

    That being said, I will still stick with either a 5W-20 (again, the Amsoil Sig Series is looking good for this weight being a D1G2 oil with a 5.8 NOACK) in the winter, and my new go-to oil for the spring/summer, the low NOACK (6.0), D1G2 Ravenol 5W-30 DXG.
    Magnetic 2016 Fiesta ST base model

  4. #14
    Senior Member 1168 Rep Points TyphoonFiST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Sport fan View Post
    The ONLY 10W-30 I personally would ever even think of using in my own FiST, and even then only in our summers here, is the Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30.

    It has the absolute lowest NOACK volitility percentage levels (4.1) I have ever seen on a spec sheet for a multi-viscosity oil, so the best LSPI resistance in that respect (not sure how much calcium and magnesium, or other sulfated ash compounds are in it though , since it is NOT D1G2 rated, as are NONE of the 10W-xx oils), and the base stocks they use will ensure warm weather 'pumpability' on startup, even for a 10W, for the SUMMER season.

    That being said, I will still stick with either a 5W-20 (again, the Amsoil Sig Series is looking good for this weight being a D1G2 oil with a 5.8 NOACK) in the winter, and my new go-to oil for the spring/summer, the low NOACK (6.0), D1G2 Ravenol 5W-30 DXG.
    Why maKe it harder for your engine to start and flow? That's what the 10 weight does....even though it's a 30 weight in operating temperature. Plus these engines are not like your old pushrod v-6s or 8s that have looser tolerances vs. Modern tighter and closer tolerances.

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    ^^^WHY I included that last sentence disclaimer to that post.
    Magnetic 2016 Fiesta ST base model

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    Senior Member 1168 Rep Points TyphoonFiST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Sport fan View Post
    ^^^WHY I included that last sentence disclaimer to that post.
    I was speaking to all those who might use 10w30....

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