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Alternaor Issues With Four Port Aux Fuel

slopoke

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Livermore
#1
I thought I'd make this a separate thread, since this affects other brands of spacer going between the intake manifold and head. I attached the same thing in my thread regarding the Peron aux fuel kit.

After you’ve installed the aux fuel spacer. If you can’t start all three of the mount bolts easily with your fingers, you've got a problem. I ran into this problem. You should alter the alternator bolt holes. Since you’ve now tilted the alternator forward and the front has now rotated down. The upper radius of the alternator bolt holes have moved down and the rear lower radius of the alternator bolt holes has moved up.

What I did to fix this was to use a file or die grinder with a cylindrical rotary file, I used a die grinder. Grind the upper radius of the fwd side alternator bolt holes, do all four holes. Grind the lower radius of the aft side of the alternator bolt holes. Don’t remove too much material. I took about a 1/16” off. I opened the lower side bolt hole a little bit too, just so you get a little bit of play to work with. My lower bolt was a little tight to hand thread, a little grease on the threads does wonders. After doing the hole modifications, it went in fine.

Some have stated that all three of the alternator mount bolts went in fine and some have said that they could not get the lower bolt to go in. Some have probably put force on the back of the ratchet head and cranked on it til the bolt threads caught and went in. Well if you forced it in, you may have F(*&ed up the threads in the mount and if you ever have to take the alternator out, the threads may come out as well and cause a different problem.

I do believe to do a proper fix, the whole alternator needs to move forward the same distance as the spacer, to keep the bolts inline with the mount holes. Problem is, now you have to design a mounting system for the lower bolt. The R&D and extra part to manufacture would increase the price of the kit.

The drawing shows you what I mean.
 


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Location
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#4
So from what I'm gathering, any 4 port afs is making the alt sit cockeyed. Does it mount to the intake manifold? I thought our intake manifold was made of plastic? I'd definitely like to see a pic or two of this affected area for sure.
 


OP
slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #6
So from what I'm gathering, any 4 port afs is making the alt sit cockeyed. Does it mount to the intake manifold? I thought our intake manifold was made of plastic? I'd definitely like to see a pic or two of this affected area for sure.
The spacer based systems are not making the alternator "sit cockeyed". It's rotated fwd to clear the intake manifold. The alternator does not attach to the manifold. I attached a URL to a video on how to remove and replace the alternator. Now while watching the video, look at the lower single attach bolt going left to right. Now picture rotating the alternator fwd while the bolt is in. Now picture a gap at the top where the two bolts attach fwd to aft. You have to add a spacer in this gap. The two holes on the alternator at the top are now not parallel with the head, that's the problem.

I did not take any pics of the alternator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57dMZgKlcUc
 


Messages
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Location
Gulf Coast
#7
So the intake manifold being pushed back in ultimately hits the backside of the alternator. I see the two upper bolts that run front to rear and the lower one that runs perpendicular to those. So now I get the jist of what is being referred to here.
 


Se7eN

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#8
Quick question and not to thread jack or anything, but did you experience issues with the throttle after installing the port? like it keeps trying to reset it's position or something? or any sort of noises?
 


OP
slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #9
Quick question and not to thread jack or anything, but did you experience issues with the throttle after installing the port? like it keeps trying to reset it's position or something? or any sort of noises?
What is the car doing? Is the controller powered up when it's doing this? I know when I first fired the car up, the controller was injecting fuel and made the car die. If this is the issue, disconnect all four injector connectors.

You can also do a quick test to make sure each injector is working at this time. Connect one injector connector at a time and if the car bogs when you connect it, disconnect it and do another til all four have been tested. This ensures that each injector is working properly. After that, you can either keep the injectors disconnected or pull power to the controller until you get a base map from your tuner.
 


Se7eN

Senior Member
Messages
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786
Location
San Juan, Puerto Rico
#11
What is the car doing? Is the controller powered up when it's doing this? I know when I first fired the car up, the controller was injecting fuel and made the car die. If this is the issue, disconnect all four injector connectors.

You can also do a quick test to make sure each injector is working at this time. Connect one injector connector at a time and if the car bogs when you connect it, disconnect it and do another til all four have been tested. This ensures that each injector is working properly. After that, you can either keep the injectors disconnected or pull power to the controller until you get a base map from your tuner.
I actually have left the power off at the moment of the controller until I can meed up with my tuner, so it's not actually running the port just yet.
 


Messages
4
Likes
1
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
#12
I thought I'd make this a separate thread, since this affects other brands of spacer going between the intake manifold and head. I attached the same thing in my thread regarding the Peron aux fuel kit.

After you’ve installed the aux fuel spacer. If you can’t start all three of the mount bolts easily with your fingers, you've got a problem. I ran into this problem. You should alter the alternator bolt holes. Since you’ve now tilted the alternator forward and the front has now rotated down. The upper radius of the alternator bolt holes have moved down and the rear lower radius of the alternator bolt holes has moved up.

What I did to fix this was to use a file or die grinder with a cylindrical rotary file, I used a die grinder. Grind the upper radius of the fwd side alternator bolt holes, do all four holes. Grind the lower radius of the aft side of the alternator bolt holes. Don’t remove too much material. I took about a 1/16” off. I opened the lower side bolt hole a little bit too, just so you get a little bit of play to work with. My lower bolt was a little tight to hand thread, a little grease on the threads does wonders. After doing the hole modifications, it went in fine.

Some have stated that all three of the alternator mount bolts went in fine and some have said that they could not get the lower bolt to go in. Some have probably put force on the back of the ratchet head and cranked on it til the bolt threads caught and went in. Well if you forced it in, you may have F(*&ed up the threads in the mount and if you ever have to take the alternator out, the threads may come out as well and cause a different problem.

I do believe to do a proper fix, the whole alternator needs to move forward the same distance as the spacer, to keep the bolts inline with the mount holes. Problem is, now you have to design a mounting system for the lower bolt. The R&D and extra part to manufacture would increase the price of the kit.

The drawing shows you what I mean.
Yap so I just had an issue with this and went through 2 whole alternators. Hopefully this will help thank you sir
 


JDG

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#16
Yap so I just had an issue with this and went through 2 whole alternators. Hopefully this will help thank you sir
Can you elaborate? How did two alternators fail? IIRC the threads for the longer bolts are in the engine not the alternator..

I’m going on 15k miles on the stratified aux fuel with no alternator related issues..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 




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