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Peron Aux Fuel System Installed

slopoke

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#1
Peron Aux Fuel System Installed Updated

I finally installed my Peron four port aux fuel system. Took a few days doing it after work since chose to solder and run wires. Went semi smoothly, I did a write up regarding what I did to get the alternator bolts to thread in easily, so I won't cover it here. The Peron kit is not marketed as a true DIY system, so it does not come with instructions. I used Stratified's instructions for their system and the mods they have you do, applies to the Peron system as well. I did not use the plumbing supplied with the Peron kit, since I wanted PTFE / stainless braided hose covered in black sheathing.

The modifications required are, having to remove a tab on the valve cover so an injector will clock correctly, grinding a mount boss to clear the PCV hose. Other things are, if you can't thread the alternator bolts in by hand, the bolt holes on the alternator probably have to be modified. I did a separate write-up already, so I won't cover it here. I read that some people had a tough time re-installing the OEM serpentine belt, so I went one size larger, went in smoothly. So as far as minor issues goes, that's it.

I was going to mount the controller under the R/H headlight, where the horn is, but the weather proof enclosure I got won't fit in that location. The controller lid is not sealed and with the serial cable connector located under the lid, I really wanted it in a dry location, so I mounted the controller under the drivers seat, with the controller inside the weather proof enclosure. I did this because the controller housing is plastic and to avoid possible damage, the aluminum enclosure came in handy. Using the hook side of Velcro hooks to the carpet nicely and keeps the box in one place. This is how I chose to do it, so please don't comment on how that it's not necessary, my car my choice.

The wires to the injectors, MAP sensor and ignitor leads run from the engine compartment down along the drivers side and follows the routing of the fuel and brake tubing. There is a black plastic cover that covers the whole run. The cables route up and in front of the fuel tank and pops up where the fuel pump cover is. From there it goes under the door threshold covers and under the seat. I ran the power wires forward and tapped into the fuse box by the glove box. Since I've been an aviation maintenance technician for almost 40 years now, chaffing and weather protection is rooted deep in me. No crimp wire connectors were used, everything was soldered together and covered with heat shrink and run in flexible conduit.

My other thread has how I used a hot knife to strip the ignitor and map wires so that I could tap into them without damaging the individual strands that make up the wire or cutting them. You could use Positaps or Scotchlok connectors, but since there is always a possibility of nicking the wire strands, I opted to solder.

Lastly, since the car could suffer major damage if the current map is setup for aux fuel and the aux fuel system is not powered up and running. I decided that in the morning I plan to add and install a green indicator light to let me know that the controller has power. Last thing I need is a fuse to be blown and the controller not functioning and damage the engine.

Hopefully this little write-up gives another option of how to install the controller if he or she wants to have the controller in the passenger compartment.


















 


Last edited:
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Location
evansville
#2
Green indicator light for the aux fuel controller is a good idea,but also good watching the stft on accessport[thumb]
 


OP
slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #4
In my first post, I stated that I was going to add a indicator light, just to let me know that the controller was getting power. I don't need to have a situation that I had a blown fuse and the controller was not getting 12 VDC and let the AFR go way lean and hose the engine. So I installed a small green led light

I also added a hidden, but readily accessible, guarded switch that when the guard is down and pressing the switch, the aux fuel system is operating. When the guard is up and I throw the switch, the aux fuel system is off. I did this so if ever there is a situation that I need the aux fuel powered off, I can just throw the switch, instead of pulling the glovebox out and removing the fuse that is supplying power to the aux fuel controller.




 


TDavis

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#5
How did you go about installing the green light? I'd be interested to do this as well when I get my aux setup.
 


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slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #7
How did you go about installing the green light? I'd be interested to do this as well when I get my aux setup.
Since I have my controller under the drivers seat and power is supplied from the fuse box behind the glove box, it was simple. Just tapped the supply wires and ran wires in parallel with the ones that go to the controller.
 


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slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #8
I did a few pulls for data logs today. I had to lower the tire pressures quite a bit to get the tires to stay hooked up in third. I can't imagine what the mega horsepower fellas have to do to finalize their maps. I'd imagine dyno pulls with logging would be required at that point.
 


Se7eN

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#9
Or 4th Gear Pulls in "Mexico" in order to get some sort of traction... though pushing 120 in a highway isn't too safe
 


Perfblue15

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#10
I did a few pulls for data logs today. I had to lower the tire pressures quite a bit to get the tires to stay hooked up in third. I can't imagine what the mega horsepower fellas have to do to finalize their maps. I'd imagine dyno pulls with logging would be required at that point.
Yeah 3rd gers sketchy and always spins for me.
Or 4th Gear Pulls in "Mexico" in order to get some sort of traction... though pushing 120 in a highway isn't too safe
This is basically the easiest solution as sketchy as it is. Sadly trying to put 380+ whp to the ground with a 225 section width tire is hard.

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Se7eN

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#11
Sadly, i don't know that type of power yet. You can barely feel the tires trying to break loost in 3rd. Gonna finish up the tune soon, see what happens we it hits the 300+ mark
 


OP
slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #12
I just got a notification from my tuner. The tires were losing a bit of traction even with the tire pressures lowered. Guess the safest way to get the numbers is having the car hooked up on a dyno instead of doing 4th gear pulls on the highway.
 


Se7eN

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#13
I just got a notification from my tuner. The tires were losing a bit of traction even with the tire pressures lowered. Guess the safest way to get the numbers is having the car hooked up on a dyno instead of doing 4th gear pulls on the highway.
The problem with that would be having the tuner live if possible receiving logs at the moment and re-sending adjustments. If not you'd just spend your money on one or 2 runs just to get the long and have to come back later when adjustments are in fact made.

That is kinda the reason I decided to move on to a local tuner that can get in the car with me and see whats going on live. But again, I know not everyone lives near a "good" tuner.
 


OP
slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #14
The problem with that would be having the tuner live if possible receiving logs at the moment and re-sending adjustments. If not you'd just spend your money on one or 2 runs just to get the long and have to come back later when adjustments are in fact made.

That is kinda the reason I decided to move on to a local tuner that can get in the car with me and see whats going on live. But again, I know not everyone lives near a "good" tuner.
I've been fortunate to have found a Dynojet dyno center that costs 90.00 for three pulls. I don't mind the extra cost for an extra session and it looks like it will only be one extra session, because the tuner stated that currently the map is at the limits of boost and ignition timing from what he sees from the two data log files I've sent him.

The tuner wants a 4th gear pull to see if the ignition corrections that he sees in the data file is caused the tires loosing grip or loosing grip plus bumps in the road. If the ignition corrections go away, then the current map is probably it. If there are corrections during the dyno pulls, I think he will dial the ignition timing back and that will be the end of revisions. He also wants me to go E40 to see if that will help with the ignition corrections since I'm running 91 octane.

I have a dyno appointment for Monday Dec 17th. I will post the numbers as soon as I can.
 


Messages
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Location
Highland, CA, USA
#16
Peron Aux Fuel System Installed Updated

I finally installed my Peron four port aux fuel system. Took a few days doing it after work since chose to solder and run wires. Went semi smoothly, I did a write up regarding what I did to get the alternator bolts to thread in easily, so I won't cover it here. The Peron kit is not marketed as a true DIY system, so it does not come with instructions. I used Stratified's instructions for their system and the mods they have you do, applies to the Peron system as well. I did not use the plumbing supplied with the Peron kit, since I wanted PTFE / stainless braided hose covered in black sheathing.

The modifications required are, having to remove a tab on the valve cover so an injector will clock correctly, grinding a mount boss to clear the PCV hose. Other things are, if you can't thread the alternator bolts in by hand, the bolt holes on the alternator probably have to be modified. I did a separate write-up already, so I won't cover it here. I read that some people had a tough time re-installing the OEM serpentine belt, so I went one size larger, went in smoothly. So as far as minor issues goes, that's it.

I was going to mount the controller under the R/H headlight, where the horn is, but the weather proof enclosure I got won't fit in that location. The controller lid is not sealed and with the serial cable connector located under the lid, I really wanted it in a dry location, so I mounted the controller under the drivers seat, with the controller inside the weather proof enclosure. I did this because the controller housing is plastic and to avoid possible damage, the aluminum enclosure came in handy. Using the hook side of Velcro hooks to the carpet nicely and keeps the box in one place. This is how I chose to do it, so please don't comment on how that it's not necessary, my car my choice.

The wires to the injectors, MAP sensor and ignitor leads run from the engine compartment down along the drivers side and follows the routing of the fuel and brake tubing. There is a black plastic cover that covers the whole run. The cables route up and in front of the fuel tank and pops up where the fuel pump cover is. From there it goes under the door threshold covers and under the seat. I ran the power wires forward and tapped into the fuse box by the glove box. Since I've been an aviation maintenance technician for almost 40 years now, chaffing and weather protection is rooted deep in me. No crimp wire connectors were used, everything was soldered together and covered with heat shrink and run in flexible conduit.

My other thread has how I used a hot knife to strip the ignitor and map wires so that I could tap into them without damaging the individual strands that make up the wire or cutting them. You could use Positaps or Scotchlok connectors, but since there is always a possibility of nicking the wire strands, I opted to solder.

Lastly, since the car could suffer major damage if the current map is setup for aux fuel and the aux fuel system is not powered up and running. I decided that in the morning I plan to add and install a green indicator light to let me know that the controller has power. Last thing I need is a fuse to be blown and the controller not functioning and damage the engine.

Hopefully this little write-up gives another option of how to install the controller if he or she wants to have the controller in the passenger compartment.


















I can’t get my injectors to fire on the aux fuel kit, I’ve tried so many things and idk what to do now! I need help :(
 


Messages
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Location
Highland, CA, USA
#18
is everything connected properly and the controller getting electricity?
Yeas I finally got it to work because TunePlus was sending me blank tunes 🤦🏼‍♂️ And now I tried to test the injectors and messed something up because now the car won’t start at all🤦🏼‍♂️
 


OP
slopoke

slopoke

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Thread Starter #19
Did you load a file into the Split Second fuel injector controller? The controller won't work properly unless you load the file your tuner gives you.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#20
Yeas I finally got it to work because TunePlus was sending me blank tunes [emoji2361] And now I tried to test the injectors and messed something up because now the car won’t start at all[emoji2361]
Thought he was the next best thing since sliced bread. Sounds like a problem about to happen.

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