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Thread: Bleeding the Clutch
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  1. #11
    Senior Member 320 Rep Points Fiesta ST of the Month Winner Perfblue15's Avatar
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    I've done both a gravity bleed and a power bleed. I personally prefer the power bleed if you can get a mechanic grade bleeder that pressurizes the master cylinder and pushes the fluid through. The ones that pull from the slave cylinder tend to leave bubbles in the system. The good old gravity method works fairly well but takes a while and I recommend ending it with having someone in the car pumping and holding the clutch to the floor like bleeding brakes.

    I've done the clutch one my car about 4 times now, I would power bleed it and be done myself.

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    Senior Member 300 Rep Points Sekred's Avatar
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    I use my trusty vacuum bleeder. The reason some people may think they tend to leave some air in the system is because when the hose is connect to the bleed screw, air gets suck down past the threads and then combines with the brake oil entering the bleed hole and cause bubbles in the hose.
    When you first use a vacuum bleeder you tend to wonder why you have lots of air in the hose but you can actually hear it sucking air down past the bleed nipple threads.


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    Last edited by Sekred; 12-29-2018 at 01:13 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by koozy View Post
    The hydraulic clutch slave shares the same brake fluid reservoir and should ideally be bled along with the brake fluid system, when its' bled. It's sorta like changing oil, but not changing the filter if the brake system is bled, but not the hydraulic clutch system. Fluid naturally gets old and ages even if the car sits and is never used. Symptoms of spongy clutch pedal, not being able to shift into gear are some indicators. Sometimes the focus is on cables and linkages when the culprit may be old accumulated air/water in the clutch line.
    PRECISELY!

    WHY in the spring I will either flush the whole brake/clutch system myself, or if I do not have the garage to work in (HOA rules), I will pay someone else to do this, even if I do not need pads/rotors by then since over two years is too long for the very hygroscopic factory fluid to be in the system, as far as I'm concerned.
    Magnetic 2016 Fiesta ST base model

 

 
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