• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


My FiST jumped timing, Needs engine an rebuild. Intro post

Messages
7
Likes
2
Location
San Diego
#1
2014 model year. Bought in October with 56k miles. It came with a pedal spacing kit, eibach springs, 15” Racing dynamics wheels, Cobb RMM, symposer delete and a Cobb exhaust.
Planned to keep as is for 10k miles then tune it. Heatsoaked it while flying up big bear mountain a month later. Took it to Mossy ford in San Diego to make sure nothing was damaged. They did the coolant recall and fixed a small oil leak under warranty. With a clean bill of health, the mods began.
Put an intercooler in myself about 5 weeks ago. Threw a Kompact BOV in because Psshhh. Got a used accessport to monitor temps. TB torsion bar

Two weeks ago as I’m pulling (hard) onto the hwy, I hear a flapping noise that I believe is a flat front passenger tire. I pull over, leave the motor running to check the tire and see shreds of the serpentine belt on the pavement. Engine is idling fine no lights on dash. All gauges look good on accessport. I pop the hood to see the belt is beginning to fray but still holding tension and spinning all accessories. Right as I decide it’s good to drive off the hwy, the engine shuts off. I get towed home as it’s late and my local mechanic doesn’t have any legal street space for me to drop it.

Next morning, Tow #2 to my local shop in north park. Ironically, I had left the car with them 3 days before this for an oil change, new brake pads and fluid.
This mechanic says something’s seriously wrong because a frayed belt shouldn’t disable the engine. It should be able to start. They suggest I take it to the dealer.

Tow #3 to Mossy Ford
Techs initially think it’s a serpentine belt and a tensioner, they replace it the next day. Car won’t start. They then put in a new battery the day after that. Car still won’t start. Few days later, They plug in the Ford IDS system which gives the code,
VCT intake - off timing.
Techs say car needs a new timing belt and there are a couple other items that it just makes sense to replace while you’re down there. That job is about $1600 so My repair quote has now surpassed $2000. After calling around and weighing my options for a couple days, I tell the dealer to go ahead.
A few days later they call and tell me the belt jumped a tooth. I have some trashed valves and least one bent rod. Maybe one bad piston as well. The block will need to be machined. I’m given two options.
Send block out for machining and a top end Rebuild. $4500 - $5500 depending on what else does or doesn’t need replacing.
New motor from ford installed for $7000.

The best part of this is Im at 60,449 miles, barely out of warranty. Those dealer prices are insane, so last night I had the car towed back home. Still had to pay them nearly $1000 for all the parts and labor they did before they got the real issue. I'm now contemplating my options for doing the engine swap myself or paying for the job. As it seems I can get a used longblock for 600-800. I have one quote from a local performance shop, $2000 to pull my engine, remove all accessories and install new longblock.

I'm on this forum to gather as much info as I can to determine if an engine swap is something I want to do myself. Any and all advice, comments, criticism, even insults will be helpful. Also if anyone in the San Diego area wants to do some wrenching, let me know.

Sorry for the long read
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,498
Likes
7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#2
2014 model year. Bought in October with 56k miles. It came with a pedal spacing kit, eibach springs, 15” Racing dynamics wheels, Cobb RMM, symposer delete and a Cobb exhaust.
Planned to keep as is for 10k miles then tune it. Heatsoaked it while flying up big bear mountain a month later. Took it to Mossy ford in San Diego to make sure nothing was damaged. They did the coolant recall and fixed a small oil leak under warranty. With a clean bill of health, the mods began.
Put an intercooler in myself about 5 weeks ago. Threw a Kompact BOV in because Psshhh. Got a used accessport to monitor temps. TB torsion bar

Two weeks ago as I’m pulling (hard) onto the hwy, I hear a flapping noise that I believe is a flat front passenger tire. I pull over, leave the motor running to check the tire and see shreds of the serpentine belt on the pavement. Engine is idling fine no lights on dash. All gauges look good on accessport. I pop the hood to see the belt is beginning to fray but still holding tension and spinning all accessories. Right as I decide it’s good to drive off the hwy, the engine shuts off. I get towed home as it’s late and my local mechanic doesn’t have any legal street space for me to drop it.

Next morning, Tow #2 to my local shop in north park. Ironically, I had left the car with them 3 days before this for an oil change, new brake pads and fluid.
This mechanic says something’s seriously wrong because a frayed belt shouldn’t disable the engine. It should be able to start. They suggest I take it to the dealer.

Tow #3 to Mossy Ford
Techs initially think it’s a serpentine belt and a tensioner, they replace it the next day. Car won’t start. They then put in a new battery the day after that. Car still won’t start. Few days later, They plug in the Ford IDS system which gives the code,
VCT intake - off timing.
Techs say car needs a new timing belt and there are a couple other items that it just makes sense to replace while you’re down there. That job is about $1600 so My repair quote has now surpassed $2000. After calling around and weighing my options for a couple days, I tell the dealer to go ahead.
A few days later they call and tell me the belt jumped a tooth. I have some trashed valves and least one bent rod. Maybe one bad piston as well. The block will need to be machined. I’m given two options.
Send block out for machining and a top end Rebuild. $4500 - $5500 depending on what else does or doesn’t need replacing.
New motor from ford installed for $7000.

The best part of this is Im at 60,449 miles, barely out of warranty. Those dealer prices are insane, so last night I had the car towed back home. Still had to pay them nearly $1000 for all the parts and labor they did before they got the real issue. I'm now contemplating my options for doing the engine swap myself or paying for the job. As it seems I can get a used longblock for 600-800. I have one quote from a local performance shop, $2000 to pull my engine, remove all accessories and install new longblock.

I'm on this forum to gather as much info as I can to determine if an engine swap is something I want to do myself. Any and all advice, comments, criticism, even insults will be helpful. Also if anyone in the San Diego area wants to do some wrenching, let me know.

Sorry for the long read
Ask yourself...Do I have the time? How long can the vehicle be down? Do I have another means of transportation to get around till the job is done? Are you familiar with Interference engines and timing them? Others will also Chime in here I imagine...Keep us up to date and how you proceed! Best of luck! [wrenchin]
 


OP
B
Messages
7
Likes
2
Location
San Diego
Thread Starter #3
I do have a second vehicle, so if I go the DIY route, it can take as long as it needs to be done correctly. I am quite competent working on cars, I do most of my own work whenever I can. I have pulled motors apart but I do not have experience with full reassembly, engine removal or setting timing for an interference motor. I was planning to buy an NA Miata this spring for a trackday beater and to teach myself how to rebuild a motor properly. That plan is on hold now[sad]. Thanks for the luck I'll take all I can get.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,498
Likes
7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#4
I do have a second vehicle, so if I go the DIY route, it can take as long as it needs to be done correctly. I am quite competent working on cars, I do most of my own work whenever I can. I have pulled motors apart but I do not have experience with full reassembly, engine removal or setting timing for an interference motor. I was planning to buy an NA Miata this spring for a trackday beater and to teach myself how to rebuild a motor properly. That plan is on hold now[sad]. Thanks for the luck I'll take all I can get.
Do you have all the proper tools? Engine hoist....Torque wrenches....Impact tools electric or air.....micrometers...etc..a ford repair Manual not a Hayne's or Chilton's manual either? I'm just trying to prepare you for anything that might come up and save you from the Parts/ tool running around? If you get what I mean.....[:D]
 


OP
B
Messages
7
Likes
2
Location
San Diego
Thread Starter #5
I have pretty much all the tools including the impact wrenches. Everything besides the engine stand and hoist. I plan to rent the cherry picker when the time comes. Luckily I have my own gated in driveway to keep the car. Ive ordered a temporary pavilion to setup over the car while its being repaired. I'm looking for the ford repair manual now as I cant find a Chilton or Haynes manual to order.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,498
Likes
7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#6
I have pretty much all the tools including the impact wrenches. Everything besides the engine stand and hoist. I plan to rent the cherry picker when the time comes. Luckily I have my own gated in driveway to keep the car. I've ordered a temporary pavilion to setup over the car while its being repaired. I'm looking for the ford repair manual now as I cant find a Chilton or Haynes manual to order.
Its probably better that those manuals aren't Available for Just the ST version. They are Absolute TRASH. If you get any engine. Are you going to replace any timing components while its on an engine stand or just roll with it if its a low mileage engine? Food for thought....are you going to use OEM parts or aftermarket parts? [scratch] If it was me.....Id use OEM do the mediocrity of most after market parts these days. [sad]
 


OP
B
Messages
7
Likes
2
Location
San Diego
Thread Starter #7
Ive found 2 complete engines in my area that I plan to inspect this weekend. One is a 30k mile out of a totaled 2015 ST for $800. And a 60k mile escape 1.6 for 650. I plan to use OEM everything as this whole ordeal has me regretting changing even one bolt from stock on the car. I'm leaning towards not messing with the new motor and just popping it in. The part I'm most concerned about is timing the engine as I know just how badly it can go if I get it wrong. But it seems a shame not to replace everything I possibly could while its on the stand. I might see if theres a reputable shop thats willing to do just the timing work.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,498
Likes
7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#8
Ive found 2 complete engines in my area that I plan to inspect this weekend. One is a 30k mile out of a totaled 2015 ST for $800. And a 60k mile escape 1.6 for 650. I plan to use OEM everything as this whole ordeal has me regretting changing even one bolt from stock on the car. I'm leaning towards not messing with the new motor and just popping it in. The part I'm most concerned about is timing the engine as I know just how badly it can go if I get it wrong. But it seems a shame not to replace everything I possibly could while its on the stand. I might see if theres a reputable shop thats willing to do just the timing work.
Well if you plan to just pop it in,,,it will not require timing as the engine should still already be timed still, It will just need to be checked to be absolutely sure its timing is on so you don't yard ornament the engine right away. These engines are pretty stout and do have some forged internals. If it was me id roll with the ST engine if it checks out....just make sure you can get compression numbers from the yard if it was running before removal or do a compression check on it after install. If it can be had with an extra warranty from the vendor it might be worth it also. Good luck man! I'm sure it will pan out alright!
 


OP
B
Messages
7
Likes
2
Location
San Diego
Thread Starter #9
I plan to do a compression test and leakdown test. From the little bit of info I've read, it seems the two engines are exactly the same except for a cylinder head temp sensor and the ECM calibrations. Hopefully someone can say if thats true or not? That said, I would feel much more at ease if an ST motor went back in so thats what I'm planning for. Thanks for all the advice so far. I truly appreciate it!
 


SrsBsns

Active member
Messages
657
Likes
695
Location
San Diego
#11
Hey,

Sorry to hear that! Of course it would happen just outside of warranty.

I'm in North Park and would be down to help you for sure if you decide to do the work yourself.

I just had a fairly close call... The coolant hose running from the reservoir to the back of the block failed and I overheated. I had Kearny Pearson Ford do the work on the hose, thinking that I might also have had blown the HG.

I'll send you a PM with my info.
 


Messages
50
Likes
6
Location
Decatur
#12
Sorry to hear all this. I'm still pondering the OP - How did a shredded serpentine cause the timing belt to jump? Also, sounds like jumped more than one notch, tho I doubt they tried to ascertain that. Or did you get on it so hard - maybe over-revving? - that both happened together from that?
 


OP
B
Messages
7
Likes
2
Location
San Diego
Thread Starter #13
I’m still pondering that myself. I figure the serpentine belt was a symptom of the TB failing. Nothing was out of the ordinary when it happened. I almost always shift at 6k as there isn’t much power to be had revving any higher on a stock turbo car. What is interesting is the night this happened, I hit a pothole hard on the front passenger tire, while on power. Hard enough to me want to check on the wheel. I drove for maybe 5 more miles to a restaurant and then another 3-5 miles back home and all was well. Until I went to get on the hwy a few hours later. Maybe hitting that pothole + acceleration cause the belt to jump.
 


Hijinx

3000 Post Club
U.S. Air Force Veteran
Messages
3,290
Likes
1,669
Location
Auburn, AL, USA
#14
2400-3000 is what I would expect for a long block install.

Alternatively, a built engine would run you around 4000-5000.

Anyway, message [MENTION=2886]FearTheSnail[/MENTION]. He’s done a couple swaps and could tell you what you need to do the job at home.
 


Similar threads



Top