Cobb Stage 1 OTS on stock IC?

[Skadeush]

In the process of getting an aftermarket IC, but I was wondering how safe the Cobb Stage 1 OTS is on the stock IC? I won't be tracking it or banging it through 1st-4th. I know it's been recommended time and time again that you upgrade the IC, but that is not my question. Don't mean to beat a dead horse here. Thanks for the help!

 

[Skadeush]

FMIC is soon to come. For the moment it's just a RAMAIR panel filter, Cobb RMM, and a symposer delete.

 

[SST]

what does deleting the symposer do to these tune? i thought it is just a sound making tool?

 

[theblue]

stage one is designed for not having an intercooler upgrade so you're fine. basically stage 2 is with intercooler.

you can monitor charge air temp against ambient if you want to see how well things are going.

 

[Skadeush]

stage one is designed for not having an intercooler upgrade so you're fine. basically stage 2 is with intercooler.

you can monitor charge air temp against ambient if you want to see how well things are going.

What kind of charge air temp change should I be concerned about (i.e. anything above 30 degree change)?

 

[SST]

The symposer is a weak link - it is prone to leaking boost. With a factory tune and at stock boost levels it isn't a huge deal, but more aggressive tunes and higher boost exacerbate the issue, possibly to the point of the symposer failing entirely.

The electric diverter/recirc valve on the factory turbo is also similarly a weak link, but to a lesser extent.

And likewise, the resonated noodle pipe will cause boost drop, even on a factory tune. I have no real idea why Ford opted for a resonated pipe on the hot-side charge piping.

Thanks, so one of those symposer delete cap in theory can bring me back more boost?

Resonated noodle pipe as in hot side charge pipe? i still haven't touch these area yet, still learning lol

 

[theblue]

What kind of charge air temp change should I be concerned about (i.e. anything above 30 degree change)?

I don't know if there are documented acceptable numbers. What I would do it watch numbers on the stock map and then compare to stage 1. If you're not seeing large difference then you're almost certainly fine.

 

[SST]

Yeah, the bend that is closest to the turbo itself. The stock pipe has a "double donut" looking resonator on it that is known to cause boost drop and interfere with throttle response. Unless you plan to replace the entire hot-side charge pipe, you can simply replace that portion. Ron sells a high quality replacement pipe for about $80 on his Whoosh Motorsports webstore. Click here.

Thanks again, so whats inside that double donut anyways? another sound making hardware?

 

[JorJorBinks]

In the process of getting an aftermarket IC, but I was wondering how safe the Cobb Stage 1 OTS is on the stock IC? I won't be tracking it or banging it through 1st-4th. I know it's been recommended time and time again that you upgrade the IC, but that is not my question. Don't mean to beat a dead horse here. Thanks for the help!

It’s safe, here in SoCal on 91 it was fine driving in the 100*f+ weather we get late summer. You’ll notice a huge change in consistency once you change the IC. Stock is 1 good pull a day, COBB IC is 1 good pull all day.


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[DieselMech]

What kind of charge air temp change should I be concerned about (i.e. anything above 30 degree change)?

As a general rule I tended to stay out of WOT boost if charge temps were higher than 115*. Mind you this is coming from the Mazdaspeed platform but forced induction is forced induction regardless of the platform. Higher temps than that can cause preignition and will ultimately result in damage to the internals. I have my AP coming in Thursday and plan to monitor charge temp religiously. On my Mazda I was seeing about 15-20* difference from ambient temps but that was on a TR11 FMIC.

 

[MRX330]

Pre-ignition has more to do with oil and gas mixing in the combustion chamber creating a new substance that has a low octane rating. This means it will combust under pressure before the fuel. Stock cast pistons are oblong until they reach optimal temperature at which point they will become round. This is why it is important on stock engines to get the internal temperature up to oil temps around 200 F before pouring the coals to it. This is why I went with the Mountune short block with forged pistons. They are denser and cylindrical with a much less chance of blow by due to tighter tolerances to the cylinder wall.

 

[DieselMech]

What kind of charge air temp change should I be concerned about (i.e. anything above 30 degree change)?

The main concern is how high your charge temps are, not so much the difference between ambient. A better intercooler will close the gap between the two temps but the best intercooler in 115* heat is still pushing at best 120ish which is too high for my comfort


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