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DIY Rear Camber Plates???

D1JL

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#21
The correct way is to make the shim paper thin at the top so the ABS sensor does reach the ring.
This of course is the reason it is difficult to make.
In order to use automated machines, you may need to build a fixture to hold the shim plate during the grinding or milling process.
This makes it more expensive to make.
The other thing that you may not be thinking of is the wedge is on two planes.
This is to add a little toe in however, you could leave this out but it is better with it if you can.

When I made mine I went through six of them before getting it correct and it took me about a week.
That's why I think it is less of a hassle to just buy them, I would have but they weren't available at that time.




Dave
 


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Woods247

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#22
You’re always so angry dude haha! It’s a discussion. Your input HELPs. Thanks.
 


Dpro

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#23
The correct way is to make the shim paper thin at the top so the ABS sensor does reach the ring.
This of course is the reason it is difficult to make.
In order to use automated machines, you need to build a fixture to hold the shim plate during the grinding or milling process.
This makes expensive to make.
The other thing that you may not be thinking of is the wedge is on two planes.
This is also add a little toe in however you could leave this out but it is better with it..

When I made mine I went through six of them before getting it correct and it took me about a week.
That's why I think it is less of a hassle to just buy them.

What do I know, you do what ever you want.


Dave
Seriously Dave you’re a nice guy but you are coming across mean and vindictive here. Its like anyone proposes doing it you want to be right and tell them they can’t do it and not help.

The thing is I would not make the jig myself I have manufacturing resources who would build the jig .Been there done it before.

If you were willing to let me know the specifications that you wound up with for your set I could take them to my guys and probably do a run. I only have made custom engine and trans mounts for 240sx’s. In fact I have sold them for over ten years.

If its a matter of money because you feeling you spent a lot of time to design, royalties could even be discussed.
 


D1JL

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#24
Sorry, I did not mean for this to come across as you thought.
I know that you will be able to make these parts.
I was just trying to explain the process I went through and explaining my steps, in hopes to save you time and money.

As for plans or drawings, I never made any, except maybe to draw on my work bench.
Once again I would tell you how I did it but I would not want for you take things the wrong way.
Or that my way is the only way that it can be done because of course it is not.
I will say that I used my mill to get the wedge angle and not a grinder.

Good luck in your endeavor.
 


jeffreylyon

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#25
Seriously Dave you’re a nice guy but you are coming across mean and vindictive here. Its like anyone proposes doing it you want to be right and tell them they can’t do it and not help.
In Dave's defense, I didn't read that at all. I read that he was trying to help you understand that this wasn't a simple waterjet or mill process. Personally, I think that the DNA Racing parts are priced right, but if you think that you can CADD the part, design and cut tooling, spend the time fitting and testing the prototype, buy a run, and sell the part at a price that is better than the existing part and puts enough money in your pocket to make it work your while, great! I'm sure that you'll sell some.

You don't need Dave's design: grab a rear knuckle and your favorite scale and fire up you whatever CADD program you work in. I'd vote for -1º and no toe (to keep your costs down) but, in all honesty, I've been eyeing the DNA parts for some time and will probably buy them once I convince myself that I really don't need their LCAs, too.
 


Dpro

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#26
In Dave's defense, I didn't read that at all. I read that he was trying to help you understand that this wasn't a simple waterjet or mill process. Personally, I think that the DNA Racing parts are priced right, but if you think that you can CADD the part, design and cut tooling, spend the time fitting and testing the prototype, buy a run, and sell the part at a price that is better than the existing part and puts enough money in your pocket to make it work your while, great! I'm sure that you'll sell some.

You don't need Dave's design: grab a rear knuckle and your favorite scale and fire up you whatever CADD program you work in. I'd vote for -1º and no toe (to keep your costs down) but, in all honesty, I've been eyeing the DNA parts for some time and will probably buy them once I convince myself that I really don't need their LCAs, too.
In my defense he was just stating its too hard which seemed defensive.

My idea for doing it here was for accessibilty. Currently certain things like this have to be ordered from Europe or the UK which while can be done a lot consider a hassle.
The point of of getting Dave’s info since he has no interest is it cuts down on protopying and design and speeds up the process. Its exactly why I made that post.

Though ya get the design from take it my guys and guess what I could probably set up a manufacturing run in weeks if it is financally viable.
I am not a person who just sits and lets someone tell me something can’t be done. I get that from my father who pioneered Silicon transistors for his PHD when being told the better stuff to work with was Germanium.
 


dmb

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#28
don't stop now! I went to look at the DNA's and it said 99 pounds? but then check out said each? and nothing about abs working? NO! NO! NO! not from me.
 


koozy

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#29
don't stop now! I went to look at the DNA's and it said 99 pounds? but then check out said each? and nothing about abs working? NO! NO! NO! not from me.
It states "two" plates per kit. Here it is lifted from their product page below.

DNA Racing negative camber plates kit
This kit, composed by two plates, will rise the camber value to an extra 1.5° that will get the best wheel contact to the ground. This will improve the handling, steering response and suspension precision.



If you're seriously considering it, there's a representative for DNA on Facebook who can probably confirm ABS for you. He speaks fluent English.
 


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#30
I bought and installed these plates last week. I placed the order on February 17th, and had them in my hand on the 21st! They were easy to install, and work great. In order to fix the ABS issue, I had to carefully remove about a third of the material (about 3/32") from the mounting surface of the ABS sensor. Then reinstalled with a fender washer to give additional support to the now thinner ABS sensor.


 


Woods247

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#31
I bought and installed these plates last week. I placed the order on February 17th, and had them in my hand on the 21st! They were easy to install, and work great. In order to fix the ABS issue, I had to carefully remove about a third of the material (about 3/32") from the mounting surface of the ABS sensor. Then reinstalled with a fender washer to give additional support to the now thinner ABS sensor.
I’m glad to hear this is an option. How many miles have you put on the car since the installation?
 


Woods247

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#35
What was the issue? And, I have autocross this Sunday, so I'll let you know.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I don’t know exactly, but I assume heat and extreme g-force caused movement which resulted in failure. 2J made little adapters to hold the sensors. One of them was too far away and fired off the failure. I adjusted it too close and it rubbed then melted.. Since you’re not using adapters for the abs sensors, I’m hopeful you won’t have any issues. I probably had 200 street miles with no issues. Nothing happpend until I tracked it.
 


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#39
Unfortunately I wasn't able to attend. I won't be able to report on autocross performance until May.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 


Peterson

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#40
I’ve got a set ordered and they should come in the next few weeks. No hurry here. Good info on the ABS. I never thought of that.
 


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