Anyone else noticed the 3rd spark plug is always difficult to remove?

[Clint Beastwood]

I had an issue with spark plug #3 too. Whenever I put a socket down there to loosen or tighten, the socket would stay stuck on the plug because the extension couldn't hold it strong enough to pull it out so I had to get some long reach needle nose pliers to get it out. I solved this issue by jb welding the socket to the extension lol.

Lol nice jb world is almost as great as duct tape. You just better be really sure before applying it lol.

I usually buy the magnetic spark plug socket with the 12” or so attached extension, it’s got a wobbler between the extension and the socket but it’s permanently attached. Totally worth the 20 bucks.

 

[flbchbm]

Just pulled my plugs. Looks like original fomoco's with 100k miles.

Odd that these things go in at such an angle. .

100k must be a record for most tuners...lol. I am NOT doing 10k or 15k. I will LOOK at them sometime and cross that proverbial bridge.

As far as the angle: Not odd at all. Valves, fuel injector AND spark plug in a tiny little cylinder head. Somethings gotta give.

I mentioned before I use anti-sieze on my plug threads. I used on the exhaust bolts too.

 

[Intuit]

For posterity....

OSOF 14mm & 16mm Spark Plug Socket Thin Wall 12-Point Removal Tool 3/8 inch Square Drive Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D12KH8V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N-BFCbCZ78MJP

Someone posted this thin wall, which I purchased, but haven't yet wanted to do plugs on the FiST. (haven't even hit 40k yet)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074HNKI6/

.............................. I use anti-sieze on plug threads, and exhaust threads, and RMM threads and so on. Most anything that is exposed to the elements and wont' back out because of the lube or requires red or blue loctite. I noticed when removing, with just a 3/8' extension, it felt rougher than most other engines I have changed plugs on. When I inserted the new ones with anti-sieze, the first part of the plug was bare, and still rough to turn, but then it went to the covered section and was melted butter. We'll see later what they are like to remove.

Tip about cleaning the threads, should it ever be necessary: http://www.feoa.net/threads/tip-cleaning-spark-plug-well-threads.78481/
Note that was with an older engine where they used to recommend anti-seize. Modern engines typically recommend against the use of anti-seize.
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/spark-plug-socket-stuck.17079/post-310142

 

[gtx3076]

I've never used anti-seize, and I used to change my plugs out often on my old car due to oil fouling from a cracked ringland.

 

[flbchbm]

I use it sparingly of course. Have been for ~38 years. Just enough to minimize friction. I use an acid brush. I'm also a supporter of starting any plug, screw or bolt using the reverse method. I consider it mandatory for spark plugs for sure!

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I use it sparingly of course. Have been for ~38 years. Just enough to minimize friction. I use an acid brn I'm also a supporter of starting any plug, screw or bolt using the reverse method. I consider it mandatory for spark plugs for sure!

I avoid using it when the manual says not to. I think it’s because on first installation they’ve got that nickel stuff to function as anti-seize, but after the same plugs go in/out a few times I don’t think the nickel does the trick. I did have some carbon-tracking issues on some newer cars when using copper based anti seize, that’s when I found the manuals all say not to use it now.

Had a friend, bless his heart, trying to get into the DIY spirit many years ago that installed plugs with red loctite in an aluminum head lol. Luckily after some heat cycling they broke free, but after I came over with beers and saw the tube and old sparkplugs on the folding table next to his car my heart dropped for a moment.

 

[flbchbm]

I just found this article and when I did mine, I did lower my torque: NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver- or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I just found this article and when I did mine, I did lower my torque: NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver- or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

Ah that’d be a damn good reason given how many modern cars have aluminum heads now.