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Anyone else noticed the 3rd spark plug is always difficult to remove?

jeff

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#1
Wondered if anyone else has experienced this...

Just changed my plugs....I have done so 3 times now and every time the third spark plug (from the left)

1 2 3 4

is tight and difficult to remove. The others come out easy as they should, #3 is always tight and takes some patience.

All other spark plug issues aside, which have been discussed elsewhere (socket not fitting)….just curious if it's happening to others or just a coincidence.
 


SrsBsns

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#2
I haven't done mine yet, but I just ordered a set of NGK's that are one step colder and plan on replacing them in the next week or so. I'll let you know if any of them give me any trouble.

Also, when you say that it's difficult, do you just mean that it doesn't want to budge? Or what?

By the way, your review of the Pierce 6 point brace convinced me to order one. And I've seen some of your YT videos. Very cool and helpful.
 


OP
jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #3
I haven't done mine yet, but I just ordered a set of NGK's that are one step colder and plan on replacing them in the next week or so. I'll let you know if any of them give me any trouble.

Also, when you say that it's difficult, do you just mean that it doesn't want to budge? Or what?

By the way, your review of the Pierce 6 point brace convinced me to order one. And I've seen some of your YT videos. Very cool and helpful.
Cool. Maybe it's just me. But third one is stuck every time. Might not be the plug, it might be the tolerance in the 3rd plug channel. That's what I was talking about in terms of it being difficult. There are a bunch of threads on this. Some people seem to have no problem and can fit a regular spark plug socket in there no problem. Others like myself are not able to, it's like the tolerance is so tight that the socket won't fit or gets stuck. Do a search and you'll find a few threads. Good to know in advance in case you have issues. Otherwise spark plug change is a 10 minute job.

If the socket gets stuck then you don't know if you're tightening the plug or not. Also it's a PITA because you can't get a regular plug socket in there with the rubber grommet that will pull them out.

The picture below illustrates my solution. It's a 16mm or 5/8" socket. You can either (A) sand it down like the gold one to the left, which allows it to fit in the channel, or (B) fit the socket on the plug but don't put the extension all the way into the socket. This allows you to turn it without the socket getting stuck. Here's what I do:

1, use my gold socket to loosen them
2, use my pen magnet to pull them out
3, use my socket plug to drop them in
4, use my gold socket to tighten them to spec

I know all that is confusing, hope this is helpful.

 


TyphoonFiST

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#5
This is why I will take a piece of loose rubber Hose and put it over the porcelain and spin it until it threads itself in.....this is the best way to ensure no cross threading of the spark plug due to using a socket with no feel to it. Once the plug is started you can spin the hose in your fingers and it will come right off the spark plug due to it giving more resistance....then Grab a small wrench or 3/8 Torque wrench and let her buck to spec or whatever your gutentight feel is.





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Quisp

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Are you meaning that the sockets is rubbing the sides or the plug itself is difficult? When mine was loosing coolant from #3 it was difficult to remove. Maybe the extra cylinder pressure from nearly hydro lock was distorting the threads? Not trying to scare you.
 


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jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #7
Are you meaning that the sockets is rubbing the sides or the plug itself is difficult? When mine was loosing coolant from #3 it was difficult to remove. Maybe the extra cylinder pressure from nearly hydro lock was distorting the threads? Not trying to scare you.
Haha I doubt I have a cracked cylinder but thanks. I suspect it’s the socket rubbing the sides. I’m gonna sand it down a bit more before next plug change to make it easier. The plugs go in and out just fine with a hose, it’s the socket that’s the issue as with others here.
 


Quisp

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Haha I doubt I have a cracked cylinder but thanks. I suspect it’s the socket rubbing the sides. I’m gonna sand it down a bit more before next plug change to make it easier. The plugs go in and out just fine with a hose, it’s the socket that’s the issue as with others here.
[thumb] Good to hear.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Haha I doubt I have a cracked cylinder but thanks. I suspect it’s the socket rubbing the sides. I’m gonna sand it down a bit more before next plug change to make it easier. The plugs go in and out just fine with a hose, it’s the socket that’s the issue as with others here.
Time for a thin wall spark plug socket Jeff! [hihi]
 


M-Sport fan

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#10
Haha I doubt I have a cracked cylinder but thanks. I suspect it’s the socket rubbing the sides. I’m gonna sand it down a bit more before next plug change to make it easier. The plugs go in and out just fine with a hose, it’s the socket that’s the issue as with others here.
Was it actually a 'thin-walled' plug socket to begin with, and then you had to shave it down even more yet?
 


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jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #11
Time for a thin wall spark plug socket Jeff! [hihi]
Errrhhhh………..didn't know those existed but I don't see them on Amazon in our size...enlighten me, Qui-Gon Jinn.....

Was it actually a 'thin-walled' plug socket to begin with, and then you had to shave it down even more yet?
Nope, just a regular one. I shaved it down and it fits better than before but #3 still seems to stick. I'm gonna shave it down even more for next time around!!!
 


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#13
Only done mine once and yes it scared the [emoji90] out of me. Thought it was just me or something


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haste

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#14
I've changed the plugs at least four different times in my ST. I never noticed any issues. Once they loosen, I've always been able to remove them by hand. Reverse is the same, easily started and tightened by hand before torqueing with a wrench.
I'm just using some cheap crap spark plug socket and extension.
 


flbchbm

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#15
2019. I just put in Iridium at 2k miles and used a new wallymart spark plug socket with a thick wall, but it did not hang up or rub anything that I noticed. I too only use the ratchet for breaking loose and tightening. I experienced the socket staying on the plug when installing, but thankfully I have long handle needle nose pliers for the motorcycle. It was 90 degrees and I had just finished the IC, intake hoses, j pipe, etc. and the sun was beating down on me, so I didn't have the brain cell capacity to think of the two socket idea...bravo Jeff! I'll use this next time. Well, that or the fuel hose trick I forgot about too. Old age, heat and lack of sleep kinda sucks.

I use anti-sieze on plug threads, and exhaust threads, and RMM threads and so on. Most anything that is exposed to the elements and wont' back out because of the lube or requires red or blue loctite. I noticed when removing, with just a 3/8' extension, it felt rougher than most other engines I have changed plugs on. When I inserted the new ones with anti-sieze, the first part of the plug was bare, and still rough to turn, but then it went to the covered section and was melted butter. We'll see later what they are like to remove.
 


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JDG

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#16
I've changed the plugs at least four different times in my ST. I never noticed any issues. Once they loosen, I've always been able to remove them by hand. Reverse is the same, easily started and tightened by hand before torqueing with a wrench.
I'm just using some cheap crap spark plug socket and extension.
Same result on my end @jeff

I change mine every 12K or so, no idea if that helps or not. Do you notice if 2 is also slightly more difficult than 1 and 4? Here's my thinking:

I noticed on my old beater truck (VQ35 V6 engine) that the hottest cylinders, in the rear of the engine, were the most difficult to bust loose and came out making the worst sound in the world. Most people I spoke with on forums/fb had the same issue so I suspect that heat is part of the relationship.

I wonder if on the fiesta, cylinders 2 and 3 run hotter because the exhaust manifold runs are shorter and the gases don't travel as far to get to the turbo. Just thinking out loud here..

Edit: just realized this thread is from March. @jeff , have you changed your spark plugs again since making this post?
 


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jeff

jeff

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Thread Starter #17
Same result on my end @jeff

I change mine every 12K or so, no idea if that helps or not. Do you notice if 2 is also slightly more difficult than 1 and 4? Here's my thinking:

I noticed on my old beater truck (VQ35 V6 engine) that the hottest cylinders, in the rear of the engine, were the most difficult to bust loose and came out making the worst sound in the world. Most people I spoke with on forums/fb had the same issue so I suspect that heat is part of the relationship.

I wonder if on the fiesta, cylinders 2 and 3 run hotter because the exhaust manifold runs are shorter and the gases don't travel as far to get to the turbo. Just thinking out loud here..

Edit: just realized this thread is from March. @jeff , have you changed your spark plugs again since making this post?
Hello hello,

Nope I haven't changed them since March, I haven't driven the car enough to. It's only the 3rd plug. I've purchased "thin wall" sockets but it still has this issue. I have no idea what's up but I won't need to change them for a very long time now so it's not on my radar anymore.
 


gtx3076

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#18
Just pulled my plugs. Looks like original fomoco's with 100k miles. No plug was any more difficult to pull than the others, but they were in there pretty good. Plug #4 looked like it had gotten hotter than the others with some white blistering, but it was so minimal I'm not concerned.

Odd that these things go in at such an angle. I just used an o'reilly's 5/8'' spark plug socket, had no issue with clearances. I've always spun my spark plugs in by hand with the socket and extensions with a light touch. Should spin freely with little effort until it is set.
 


Clint Beastwood

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#19
I loosen them up with the engine still hot then let the car cool off before installing the new ones. Makes it easier :p
 


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#20
I had an issue with spark plug #3 too. Whenever I put a socket down there to loosen or tighten, the socket would stay stuck on the plug because the extension couldn't hold it strong enough to pull it out so I had to get some long reach needle nose pliers to get it out. I solved this issue by jb welding the socket to the extension lol.
 




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