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Bleeding Brakes help please LOL
- Thread starter subzerospeed
- Start date
OP
Thread Starter
#4
Thread Starter
#4
How mushy? New pads mushy? They take a bit to settle in and get some bite.
You've possibly still got air in the lines somewhere. Does the pedal come back up normally?
Also, Youtube.![[grinking]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_biggrinking.gif "Grinning King [grinking]")
You've possibly still got air in the lines somewhere. Does the pedal come back up normally?
Also, Youtube.
On a scale of 1-10 its a 2 of mushy. Its not very difficult to depress it to the floor fully while trying to brake in motion. The pedal comes back normally...i used a c clamp to compress the pistons and also had the bleeder valves cracked to let the pistons flow back
Really sounds like you still have some air in there, in my unprofessional, internet forum opinion.
I did the pads and a brake line change on my motorcycle last year, and I had to buy one of those pump bleeder things to get it right.
Costs a lot, but still cheaper than what the motorcycle shop would have charged. They're fucking thieves.
I did the pads and a brake line change on my motorcycle last year, and I had to buy one of those pump bleeder things to get it right.
Costs a lot, but still cheaper than what the motorcycle shop would have charged. They're fucking thieves.
This is my method that I have posted many times.
Other suggestion (above) include YouTube is also very good as there are many videos on this.
One step that is listed below but forgotton by many is to cycle the Parking Brake if the rear pads were replaced.
I would suggest that a gravity bleed the system is done first.
This does get most of the air out.
One wheel at a time in this order, RR, LR, RF, LF.
Be sure to remove the cap from the Master Cylinder, this allows the fluid to flow.
If the rear brakes were serviced, cycling the E-Brake handle a few times should be done.
This is to re-set the rear pistons to a proper location.
After that, bleed as normal with one person on the pedal and one at the wheel.
It is best to use a clear plastic tube on the bleed valve nipple so you can see the fluid.
Do NOT pump the brake pedal, this only puts air back into the system, if multiple pumps are required, do it slowly.
Remember that the gravity bleed got most of the air out anyway.
Just one press on the pedal then bleed and repeat on all wheels until there is no air.
Always do RR, LR, RF, then LF.
You do not need to do the gravity bleed again.
However, you should then do the same procedure again with the engine running.
This allows all of the valves within the ABS control to be set to the proper positions.
This method has worked for me every time without fail.
Only one most important thing is to NRVER allow the master to run out of fluid.
Dave
Other suggestion (above) include YouTube is also very good as there are many videos on this.
One step that is listed below but forgotton by many is to cycle the Parking Brake if the rear pads were replaced.
I would suggest that a gravity bleed the system is done first.
This does get most of the air out.
One wheel at a time in this order, RR, LR, RF, LF.
Be sure to remove the cap from the Master Cylinder, this allows the fluid to flow.
If the rear brakes were serviced, cycling the E-Brake handle a few times should be done.
This is to re-set the rear pistons to a proper location.
After that, bleed as normal with one person on the pedal and one at the wheel.
It is best to use a clear plastic tube on the bleed valve nipple so you can see the fluid.
Do NOT pump the brake pedal, this only puts air back into the system, if multiple pumps are required, do it slowly.
Remember that the gravity bleed got most of the air out anyway.
Just one press on the pedal then bleed and repeat on all wheels until there is no air.
Always do RR, LR, RF, then LF.
You do not need to do the gravity bleed again.
However, you should then do the same procedure again with the engine running.
This allows all of the valves within the ABS control to be set to the proper positions.
This method has worked for me every time without fail.
Only one most important thing is to NRVER allow the master to run out of fluid.
Dave
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