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Bolt on RMM being a asshole

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boonieville
#1
Has anyone had to really struggle with one or both of the Bolts that go through the RMM?

The large bolt connecting to the transmission on my car was on so tight, that even a impact gun didn't do it. Just mashed the bolt head a bit.

FYI I already had the rear frame bolt off at that point, so the engine wasen't putting pressure on it.
 


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NANAIMO
#4
Youre supposed to remove the transmission one first before the frame bolt otherwise its very difficult to remove.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 


OP
mk_not_a_robot
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boonieville
Thread Starter #5
Based off of the fun I've had with it so far, I believe you. I'm trying again today, this time doing it the way you're recommending.

Ill keep the frame bolt on, lift the transmission by a few mm, and take the thing off.

There's no way I want to have a perfectly good AWR RMM sitting on my table and have the OEM one still on the car.
 


OP
mk_not_a_robot
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boonieville
Thread Starter #6
That didn't work. I propped up the engine almost a 1/4 inch, and hit the RMM bolt with a impact gun. Nothing. It didn't budge at all.

I'm wondering If I should buy 2 new bolts. One matching bolt from Ford or something, and another of the same thickness, but longer so I can put a nut and washer on it when I strip the threads.
 


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NANAIMO
#8
Strange, i just replaced my factory one this week and while the bolt was on snug, I was able to remove it by hand. Are you using an air impact on the bolt?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 


OP
mk_not_a_robot
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Thread Starter #9
Did you try heating it with a torch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, I don't have a torch, but I did think of that option, and it is a good one, I can expand the metal on one side of the thread, opening up the hole.

I'll see if I can rent one, or buy something small, even a lighter or a candle might do it.

Aluminum burns a bit though doesn't it?
 


OP
mk_not_a_robot
Messages
91
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18
Location
boonieville
Thread Starter #10
Strange, i just replaced my factory one this week and while the bolt was on snug, I was able to remove it by hand. Are you using an air impact on the bolt?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
I have been using a air impact gun. The psi is set to 125.

Of course I tried by hand too. The bolt head is a bit mashed, but not stripped (Still "OK")
 


koozy

3000 Post Club
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Los Angeles, CA, USA
#11
The goal is to heat it up, not melt it. A small butane torch should suffice. Once it's warm/hot take a punch and hammer to the bolt and knock it a few times to send some vibrations through to hopefully knock the corrosion, thread lock, etc. that's holding it loose before trying to unbolt it.
 


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NANAIMO
#12
Should be enough breakaway torque then. It's possible this was tightened way over spec from the factory, normal torque settings for this bolt are only like 50 ft lbs. Sometimes I've had lug nuts on so tight that even my Dewalt 1/2" impact wouldn't budge them. I had to force all my weight on a breaker bar to get them to move.

You could always strip the bolt out, and use a slightly larger bolt diameter and retap the hole as long as it can pass through the motor mount.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 


ROCKYFiestta

Active member
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Colorado Springs
#13
15$ at Walmart bro butane torch by their plumbing section/hardware section what koozy said has worked for me so many times [pray]

also by the camping section
 


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