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Just ordered Depo Euro replica projectors and HID's: Ongoing info, discussion and results

danbfree

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So everyone knows they can get Ford OEM Euro projector headlights for about $800. I felt that there HAD to be something else decent out there for less as I cannot stand the cheap base model reflector headlights we get on the ST while the rest of the world gets projectors with LED DRL strip. So there are TYC and Depo brand replicas from Taiwan out there. I was originally going to order the TYC's but when I was finally ready to order, they were no longer being carried at the web site that is easily the most inexpensive we could find. As others have ordered from them before with good luck, I decided to go for it. Apparently, Depo has a slightly better reputation for quality over TYC anyway, so for $141 each plus shipping, I can't complain. Also, I did confirm that this set is indeed for Left Hand Drive/Right Hand Traffic, but in the Euro (ECE) cutoff. As you can see here, they do come up on the sides more, so getting the proper LHD option prevents the light from hitting oncoming drivers as shown here. We want the middle ones so the extended lighting over the DOT spec is off to the sides and not into oncoming traffic drivers faces.
DOT-vs-ECE.jpg

Instead of linking directly to one individual side headlight, I'm linking to the main page I found them on that list both the left and right side. I had to play with the vehicle selector, strangely, to find these. They weren't listed under the ST200, nor the "200ps" ST, but only under the 182ps ST, which is weird because they literally are all the exact same dimension anyway. They are the ones for $141 each HERE. Note that they say they ARE for LED bulbs, which is interesting.
Depo_headlight.JPG

Not to get into a debate with anyone, but with projectors having a hard cutoff, just about any decent bulb in halogen, LED or HID can be used. So after TONS of research into bulbs, including starting a stickied thread here on using LED's in the reflector housings properly, I decided to go with HID's as they are simply amazing for the money with better light spread, as long as you have a projector lens, so I got the DDM Tuning Plus Premium 5500K set HERE for $60.


Regarding bulb quality, I have found ONE legit, independent review site that tests halogen, HID and LED in both reflector and projector housings and that is BulbFacts.com. Now, in all transparency, after I confirmed this guy is the "real deal" and is simply a 2nd job for a regular guy and only makes any money by buying using his referral links, I established a good relationship with the gentleman, Blaise, who owns and runs it. So yes, I do promote the site but only because it is 100% independent and does not get paid to promote one product over another. He literally buys the products themselves and sets up affiliate programs so he can make a couple of bucks when you buy something through his links, that's it.. So that said, Blaise did help pay for a portion of these headlights, simply because I recommend his site, which I do only because he is truly independent. Anyway, as you can see on BulbFacts HERE, the HID's I selected are the #1 HID kit for projectors for the ones he has tested on Amazon. You can also use his LED chart to see which ones actually work properly in the reflector housings too and again, I welcome you to check out the stickied thread on LED discussion.

So I did have a choice of 4500k, 5500k and 6500k for the HID's for low beam. 4500k would have provided the most light output out of each 35w but I wanted a clean modern look so went with the white 5500k, which is the color temp tested. Now, he hasn't tested all that many HID kits of of yet, but I can say he also recommended the DDM Tuning Ultra, which are $120. He did say that they have the same bulbs but do have major upgraded ballasts, but with my budget I just didn't feel they were worth it for twice the price as the Premium. I can always upgrade my ballasts too if I feel they need it.

So, with the low beams decided, I now have to determine what to use for high beams and turn signals. Now, stock low beams use an H11 bulb while the projectors use an H7, however the high beam takes the same H1 and turn signal takes the same PY21W. I am wondering if the H1 mounting area will be able to fit an LED, the factory reflectors don't seem to be able to. With the warm-up time needed for HID and the high beams needing to come on instantly, only halogen or LED is appropriate for a high beam anyway, so I'll have to wait and see. Likely, even though they aren't as bright, some blue frosted halogen that come out white may be the best bet.

Another issue is the wiring involved to use Euro projectors. Since they do come with the LED DRL's, I can move one pin in the factory wiring harness to get the DRL's to come on always dim or bright. If I want them to have OEM functionality where they are bright while the headlights aren't on and dim when the headlights are on, I would have to do a wiring harness, and there are some threads here on how to do. However, I am also considering LED's for the markers/turn signals. I can always move the amber standard bulbs over as well. They take what's called PY21W also known as 1156 size bulbs and with going LED's they do need resistors to avoid hyperflash. So, I'm not too concerned ATM, I'll do some more research on those.

However, the BIGGEST issue in using Euro projectors, is that they DO have motorized leveling for the projector lens. As of now, the only way to use this feature is by using the Euro style headlight switch, which sadly fits far differently and cannot be used in our cars without a custom dash cutting/fitting. Sadly, because they are intended to be connected to that Euro headlight switch, the TYC and Depo are known to sometimes arrive not exactly aligned level to start with, which apparently is NOT an issue using the Ford OEM ones, which do come level. Others on here and the FB groups have been able to adjust them using a combo of 2 different adjustments available on them, so I am keeping touch with those that have. Worst case scenario, I find a used Euro headlights switch to hook up once temporarily to get the motorized adjusters to level them.

So, they are all ordered but won't be here for a couple of weeks. in the meantime, I'm happy to start the discussion! Again, with all these other more popular cars having so many aftermarket headlight options, I felt I really at least wanted the Euro projector with LED DRL equivalents, at a reasonable price, so here we are!
 


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- turn signal takes the same P21W
- I am also considering LED's for the markers/turn signals. I can always move the amber standard bulbs over as well. They take what's called PY21W also known as 1156 size bulbs and with going LED's they do need resistors to avoid hyperflash. So, I'm not too concerned ATM, I'll do some more research on those.

The correct turn signal bulb is PY21W 7507 (bau15s base) which is NOT an 1156 (1156 is a P21W ba15s base). If you use a 21W led bulb you will not need a resistor btw. The turn signal housing requires a lot of led power to outperform halogen but to the focal point and quality of the reflectors.
 


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danbfree

danbfree

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Thread Starter #3
The correct turn signal bulb is PY21W 7507 (bau15s base) which is NOT an 1156 (1156 is a P21W ba15s base). If you use a 21W led bulb you will not need a resistor btw. The turn signal housing requires a lot of led power to outperform halogen but to the focal point and quality of the reflectors.
Yes, not sure how I missed typing that in, I have even searched for PY21W LED's... But LED never takes as much power, but f I go that route I'll try to find ones with the resistors built in.
 


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Yes, not sure how I missed typing that in, I have even searched for PY21W LED's... But LED never takes as much power, but f I go that route I'll try to find ones with the resistors built in.
These work really well, but buy 2 sets just in case ;) , I use them in both my cars and are the brightest non-tritons that we have found.

21 watts, so they draw the same power as stock.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/No-Resistor...ED-Bulbs-For-Turn-Signal-Lights-/302433574183


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 


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danbfree

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These work really well, but buy 2 sets just in case ;) , I use them in both my cars and are the brightest non-tritons that we have found.

21 watts, so they draw the same power as stock.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/No-Resistor...ED-Bulbs-For-Turn-Signal-Lights-/302433574183


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Thanks! Since I'm down in the states I'm finding all kinds on Amazon that don't need resistors either, so I'll look for at those!
 


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These work really well, but buy 2 sets just in case ;) , I use them in both my cars and are the brightest non-tritons that we have found.

21 watts, so they draw the same power as stock.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/No-Resistor...ED-Bulbs-For-Turn-Signal-Lights-/302433574183


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Great tip, thanks!

Did you get the LED DRL strip to work with Canadian wiring by relocating the pin or was it plug and play?
 


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Great tip, thanks!

Did you get the LED DRL strip to work with Canadian wiring by relocating the pin or was it plug and play?
Canadian wiring is the same as usdm. The only difference is that you will have to turn off DRL with forscan and only have manual lighting because Canadian drl setup is in the ecu and not modifiable where usdm can switch to parking lights. So either you get low beams on low wattage as per oem and never get just the strip or you turn them off and manually turn on parking lights for the strip and taillights.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 


TyphoonFiST

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Hmm...might just have to bit the bullet and get some of these! I am considering Danbfree the Demigod of Fist lightning from now on!



 


RubenZZZ

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Sub.d

I buy these in the near future. My stockers are starting to get yellow and foggy.

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danbfree

danbfree

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Bump/update... So I have my H7 HID kit from Amazon sitting and waiting for the headlights to arrive. Since it had been 10 days since I ordered and they said only 5-7 handing time before shipping I sent them an email for an update. Well, now they are say that EMS, the shipping company, needs $17 more because of the value of the headlights... Really? These are less than $150 each, why wasn't your shipping cost set up properly up front? Ugh, so I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and pay and likely am looking at another full week from now to get them...

I know [MENTION=3563]TyphoonFiST[/MENTION] called me a lighting God or some such, LOL, but I don't know a lot about projectors and retrofitting/whatnot... But I hear the H7 projectors they come with are not very good at all. I still don't understand how a projector differs from halogen to HID but must be something to do with the internal reflectors or some-such. Well, if I wanted to upgrade the projectors I'd be looking at another ~$275 for the projectors and HID kit, that will have to come later, if at all

So, it's hurry up and wait and see how my experiment goes... time to read up more and see others results too!
 


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I don't know a lot about projectors and retrofitting/whatnot... But I hear the H7 projectors they come with are not very good at all. I still don't understand how a projector differs from halogen to HID but must be something to do with the internal reflectors or some-such.
There is always a difference between oem and aftermarket replacement headlights. There is also a massive variance between every single different projector manufactured on the face of the planet. you have to choose wisely for the type of lighting you want to achieve as the beam patterns and intensity at different parts vary greatly.

to give you an idea about the euros with a halogen h7, an h7 hid kit at 50w and a retrofitted projector at 50w and 35w these are my test numbers (only measured at the most intense spot at the elbow).
On our test bench at exactly the same distance etc, and with a regulated power supply.

Stock halogen - 240lux
Morimoto 50w hid kit in stock projector - 450lux
Morimoto 4tl-r projector with philips xtreme vision g2 at 50w - 2200lux!! (Tested at 35w - 1600lux)


And a comparison picture of my old retrofitted USDM headlights with modified Corolla LED projectors with a Murano optic and clear lens.

 


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danbfree

danbfree

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There is always a difference between oem and aftermarket replacement headlights. There is also a massive variance between every single different projector manufactured on the face of the planet. you have to choose wisely for the type of lighting you want to achieve as the beam patterns and intensity at different parts vary greatly.

to give you an idea about the euros with a halogen h7, an h7 hid kit at 50w and a retrofitted projector at 50w and 35w these are my test numbers (only measured at the most intense spot at the elbow).
On our test bench at exactly the same distance etc, and with a regulated power supply.

Stock halogen - 240lux
Morimoto 50w hid kit in stock projector - 450lux
Morimoto 4tl-r projector with philips xtreme vision g2 at 50w - 2200lux!! (Tested at 35w - 1600lux)
Wow, thanks for the actual number difference, I had NO idea it was really that much difference! I'm almost certainly going to be upgrading them eventually and had heard the Morimoto 4-LTR was the way to go... You lighting geeks really go the extra mile, mixing a Corolla projector with a Murano lens to a USDM FiST headlight, LOL... why piece all that together and not just do the Morimoto? I mean, I also know that various OEM projectors can vary from poor, fair to actually very good, so I'm sure that is partly the reason, or is that the reason period, because those items are known for being so good and better than Morimoto?

Since you have done both a complete reflector retrofit and a projector upgrade on the OEM Euro's, what size or mounting type or whatnot, if not just "universal", or is there a compatible RetroQuick set out to be the easy to upgrade the projector on my Depo's that are coming? And let's say you would be tortured otherwise, can you tell me any decent budget brands or is the Morimoto already the low-end of good projectors that you wouldn't go any cheap than? I know there is Spec-D too...

It's just that I already have the H7 HID kit and obviously projector upgrades use H1 or D2S, right? Or is a lens upgrade alone possible or worth it on the Depo's? What can I do to upgrade without dropping another $350 like the entire headlights cost me, LOL.

Thanks for the knowledge! Much appreciated!
 


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Wow, thanks for the actual number difference, I had NO idea it was really that much difference! I'm almost certainly going to be upgrading them eventually and had heard the Morimoto 4-LTR was the way to go... You lighting geeks really go the extra mile, mixing a Corolla projector with a Murano lens to a USDM FiST headlight, LOL... why piece all that together and not just do the Morimoto? I mean, I also know that various OEM projectors can vary from poor, fair to actually very good, so I'm sure that is partly the reason, or is that the reason period, because those items are known for being so good and better than Morimoto?
Ok first off, there is a good reason the numbers are that high. the 4tlr is the best distance projector at the moment as it puts most of its intensity right at the elbow, at the expense of some width, so the light gradient is more severe between the straight ahead to the edges of the beam. Those were also tested with the brightest bulbs available and using 50watt ballasts.
I did the corolla experiment because "why not?" They were selling them for a decent price so I bought 2 sets and decided to experiment and wanted to use the OEM auto headlight function which works better with the instant on of the LEDs. I already have the maxed out 4tlr setup on my STI so I figured I would try something else (but I missed the ultimate so did this new setup using the same formula). Morimoto projectors are going to be at the top of the aftermarket in terms of quality control and output, there are some other brands that seem to be better in some aspects like the q5r replicas however I have not tested them yet so I can't comment on those.


Since you have done both a complete reflector retrofit and a projector upgrade on the OEM Euro's, what size or mounting type or whatnot, if not just "universal", or is there a compatible RetroQuick set out to be the easy to upgrade the projector on my Depo's that are coming? And let's say you would be tortured otherwise, can you tell me any decent budget brands or is the Morimoto already the low-end of good projectors that you wouldn't go any cheap than? I know there is Spec-D too...
You will have to custom mount whatever you try to do. The 4tlr barely fits so there will be trial and error on your part to get them to fit and be able to get them perfectly straight as well as able to aim them vertically and horizontally. You can use the washer method, you could make sandwich templates to adapt them as well. Mine use some small custom aluminium tabs. It will not be easy if you are a rookie, so spend your time researching how others have done it, HIDPlanet is a good resource.
Morimoto is the best of the high end projectors, don't bother with anything else except for maybe the q5r that lightwerkx sells.


It's just that I already have the H7 HID kit and obviously projector upgrades use H1 or D2S, right? Or is a lens upgrade alone possible or worth it on the Depo's? What can I do to upgrade without dropping another $350 like the entire headlights cost me, LOL.
Do not use any projector that isn't D2S. Anything else is junk as the bulbs are not going to fix properly and the output will suck.
If you are looking at not spending a ton you should just use the h7 hid kit you have now (DDM is not that great btw, so when it fails replace with morimoto, the bulbs are far better even in the rebased HX versions) I wouldn't recommend doing a lens upgrade they should be clear already and getting the focal point correct might be difficult.

Once you find that you aren't happy with output anymore you are also pretty much stuck with 4tlr because it is such a small projector, anything larger or into the 3" lens range will be tough to fit.
 


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danbfree

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Ok first off, there is a good reason the numbers are that high. the 4tlr is the best distance projector at the moment as it puts most of its intensity right at the elbow, at the expense of some width, so the light gradient is more severe between the straight ahead to the edges of the beam. Those were also tested with the brightest bulbs available and using 50watt ballasts.
I did the corolla experiment because "why not?" They were selling them for a decent price so I bought 2 sets and decided to experiment and wanted to use the OEM auto headlight function which works better with the instant on of the LEDs. I already have the maxed out 4tlr setup on my STI so I figured I would try something else (but I missed the ultimate so did this new setup using the same formula). Morimoto projectors are going to be at the top of the aftermarket in terms of quality control and output, there are some other brands that seem to be better in some aspects like the q5r replicas however I have not tested them yet so I can't comment on those.

You will have to custom mount whatever you try to do. The 4tlr barely fits so there will be trial and error on your part to get them to fit and be able to get them perfectly straight as well as able to aim them vertically and horizontally. You can use the washer method, you could make sandwich templates to adapt them as well. Mine use some small custom aluminium tabs. It will not be easy if you are a rookie, so spend your time researching how others have done it, HIDPlanet is a good resource.
Morimoto is the best of the high end projectors, don't bother with anything else except for maybe the q5r that lightwerkx sells.

Do not use any projector that isn't D2S. Anything else is junk as the bulbs are not going to fix properly and the output will suck.
If you are looking at not spending a ton you should just use the h7 hid kit you have now (DDM is not that great btw, so when it fails replace with morimoto, the bulbs are far better even in the rebased HX versions) I wouldn't recommend doing a lens upgrade they should be clear already and getting the focal point correct might be difficult.

Once you find that you aren't happy with output anymore you are also pretty much stuck with 4tlr because it is such a small projector, anything larger or into the 3" lens range will be tough to fit.
Wow, this is awesome info, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to reply. I've learned a LOT and will be bookmarking this page!

A guy on one of the FB groups said the 4LTR was nearly plug and play, so it's interesting you have a different take... since he thinks it's easy, I'll hit him up personally for tips on how to do that... So as far as the actual projector size, is there anything I should look for? 2.5"? "Mini"?

And the 35w numbers look good too, a full 4x brighter in the upgraded projector. I know sometimes the heat of 55w as well as diminishing returns in brightness has some feel they aren't worth it, would you say that 50w is the new sweet spot?

Well, for the price the DDM Tuning Premium look really good, I'm sure you hardcore guys don't bother with cheap stuff but the testing results are better than any other Amazon set at least. At least it's not Kensun crap, amirite? LOL But sure, they won't exactly be as nice as Morimoto, but tested at less than 500 lumens less brightness of the Morimoto, I'll take the value prop of them for now and continue doing more research. DeAuto LED also looks good, but I'll keep looking too... I possibly could return the set I have and go with another one if it will make a big difference. I wonder if their Ultra set with better ballasts would be worth that process and paying $20 more... As far as research, HID Planet is one that I had just started looking at already, I'll keep reading more there...

Thanks again!
 


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danbfree

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[MENTION=2176]blurred[/MENTION] So do regular H7 HID bulbs have the return wire on the bottom like we should use for the projectors? That's H7A correct? It's H7B that has the wire on top and should avoid, correct?
 


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danbfree

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Updating my own thread here, the headlights have been shipped and are in transit. Hopefully will be here by Saturday, but who knows.

I've been reading up on all the euro headlight stuff and asking around here in other threads and on the FB groups about the bulb and projector options. Had a bit of a scare that H7 HID's with the ground wire on top will create shadows in these projectors, I am relieved to hear that I should be fine. I got to chat directly with DDM Tuning support and someone else converting a FiST to euro projectors had the same concern and this kit did great...apparently. So I'll have to wait and see. Hopefully I get a nice proper mount without needing any adapters/mounting plates, so if anyone knows feel free to chime in.

Also, still wondering about the wiring options for full bright and dim LED functionality. I'm hoping a combo of a single wire pin change along with a ForScan change can maybe do harness-free full functionality.
 


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danbfree

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Update: Headlight housings have made it to New York, we'll see how long they take to arrive from here... In the meantime, I've done a ton of research and will eventually be upgrading the projectors in the new Euro housings... I just have to decide which projector but I do know we do need 2.5" projectors and the Morimoto FX-R 3.0 in 2.5" have the best output of all 2.5" in this LightWerkz test. I just new if I need new shrouds or not, I do know I'll need the centric install rings, but all that will be down the road most likely. I also did a new thread on a guide to Euro headlights, I'll try to get it stickied.
 




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