2016 Fiesta ST - COBB Stage 1 + Mishimoto Intercooler = Too Rich?

[MADFiST]

Hello everyone!

I have the Cobb stage 1 tune running on my car through V3 Accessport, along with complete stage 1 package. I've just added a Mishimoto intercooler kit with piping, but I am still on the OTS stage 1 tune because I only have the Cobb panel filter (for now), not the complete intake.

Question 1: I smell gasoline in the cabin, could the car be running too rich due to the addition of intercooler kit on a Stage 1 tune?

Question 2: is it safe to switch to stage 2 tune if I only have the drop in filter?

Thanks!
MADFIST

 

[Jabbit]

Almost all cars run rich by default. Weird that you are smelling gas. Do you have a high flow downpipe? Switch back to stock tune and buy a custom tune from Dizzy or another vendor, safer and more power.

 

[MADFiST]

The smell of gas only showed up after the installation of the intercooler kit, was fine prior to that. I don't have an aftermarket downpipe/cat. Only cat-back exhaust, drop in filter, intercooler and AP stage 1 OTS tune.

The shop that installed it warned me that the addition of the intercooler technically makes the car nearly a stage 2 (but I'm missing the full intake kit), so I should tune for stage 2. Not even sure if I can without the intake. I can get the intake, but I want to rest my bank account before straining it again...

 

[stadlxr]

WIth your IC kit, did you do boost pipes?

 

[MADFiST]

Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not sure what boost pipes really are.

I used the Mishimoto intercooler pipe kit, which includes:

• 2.5" hot-side and cold-side mandrel-bent aluminum pipes replaces restrictive stock intercooler pipes and couplers
• CNC-machined sensor flange on cold pipe allows for easy install of stock sensor
• Provided silicone hose and CNC plug deletes stock sound symposer system
• Fits with both stock and Mishimoto Fiesta ST intercooler
• Includes Mishimoto silicone couplers and Mishimoto T-bolt clamps

 

[stadlxr]

Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not sure what boost pipes really are.

I used the Mishimoto intercooler pipe kit, which includes:

• 2.5" hot-side and cold-side mandrel-bent aluminum pipes replaces restrictive stock intercooler pipes and couplers
• CNC-machined sensor flange on cold pipe allows for easy install of stock sensor
• Provided silicone hose and CNC plug deletes stock sound symposer system
• Fits with both stock and Mishimoto Fiesta ST intercooler
• Includes Mishimoto silicone couplers and Mishimoto T-bolt clamps

I knew it. So the sound symposer delete, you need to actually pull the sound symposer out ( as in take it and the hose out of the engine bay completely) and put a bung in or cloth where it goes into the cabin behind the battery. Youre getting engine fumes into your cabin via the sound symposer. Same happened to me, almost passed out behind the wheel while driving. Get it sorted asap

 

[MADFiST]

Holy sh#t!!!

Thank you!

 

[stadlxr]

Holy sh#t!!!

Thank you!

Was quite scary. Had to call my parents to come fetch me and drive me home. I was about to black out from the fumes. Glad you picked this up quickly dude

 

[MADFiST]

Thanks to you! Honestly, I would have kept driving it thinking it was just running rich...

Thanks again buddy!

 

[stadlxr]

Thanks to you! Honestly, I would have kept driving it thinking it was just running rich...

Thanks again buddy!

All good man

 

[MADFiST]

So the shop had put the cap on the end of the symposer that was connected to the intercooler piping. I removed the symposer, and taped the cap onto the end of the pipe that leads to the cabin (I did an ugly job, will tidy later). Can you let me know if this is sufficient? There is now a hole where the symposer leads towards the engine (see photo).

 

[stadlxr]

So the shop had put the cap on the end of the symposer that was connected to the intercooler piping. I removed the symposer, and taped the cap onto the end of the pipe that leads to the cabin (I did an ugly job, will tidy later). Can you let me know if this is sufficient? There is now a hole where the symposer leads towards the engine (see photo).

This looks good to me, a little janky but it'll work. I just janked that pipe hard and it came out. put a little cloth in the hole where it was connected to the cabin. Looks fine tho

 

[Ecmdrw5]

So did that fix it or do we need to send out a search party?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[XR650R]

You can remove that entire hose.

 

[MADFiST]

Lol, no need to send out a search party, but unfortunately the car still sports the interior odour as previously described.

My AP tells me the AFR is between 14.55 and 14.85 which I think is the normal range.

The only other thing I can think of is when the shop performed the work they also changed the oil, and they used Liqui-moly synthetic 5W20 which my car has not had before. If they oil is too thin, could the smell come from oil burning in the cylinders? I don't notice any smoking or smells coming from the tailpipe. I have an appointment on Monday to have it looked at, gonna try not to drive it too much until then.

 

[Se7eN]

Do you have AC, is it recirculating? Do you have the typical blend door issue?

A friend very recently had an issue of gas smell in the cabin. Turned out to be the Recirculating or Atmospheric Blend door was set to Atmospheric permanently due to it dying in that position. He went in, closed it and disconnected that blend door. No further smell issue after that.

 

[thecman02]

How much driving have you done since the work has been done? The only odors that should really be hitting you from the engine bay are anything spilled on the the outside of the hot parts of the engine/exhaust, but once this burns off you should never have fumes. The exhaust should be sealed from engine to the tip of the muffler. Also, having a fuel smell is not good. I believe their was posts of people having worn out injector seals. Either way if everything was 100% on that car it shouldn't smell like fuel. Having the symposer open will just make it more noticeable. I wouldn't be very worried about that oil creating an issue either.

Maybe check to make sure the PCV hoses are all good. If one of those cracked you could get fuel/oil smell as well since engines get blowby from combustion that can get fuel and oil smell.

Also... IMO I would put the Stage 2 OTS in the car. The main gain is from the intercooler. Having the lower temperature charge allows for more timing and slightly more boost.

 

[MADFiST]

I've never had a blend door problem, and being in Canada I won't be using A/C for another 2 months at least, only using the heater right now.

I switched it to re-circulating to see if the smell is gone, but unfortunately it is still there.

I'll check the PCV hoses, and switch over to OTS stage 2 on the Accessport!

Maybe the tech spilled some oil in the car and doesn't want to own up to it...

Thanks everyone!

 

[M-Sport fan]

I am going to take for granted that you've already checked this, but just in case;

Are the oil fill cap, and dipstick both fully seated/'locked'??

(Not sure if/what codes or dash lights would be thrown if they were not. )

 

[MADFiST]

Yes, I did check the dipstick and oil cap. I read that if not fully seated/locked it could cause the smell. I also read that if the fuel cap isn't closed it could cause the gas smell, but I didn't have to worry about that one on our cars...

Thanks!