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shouldbeasy's 'not a build' build.

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Location
Livonia
#63
First off, this car was purchased with the intention of not modifying it besides some required exterior mods to reduce rock chips (I drive on gravel daily).

- Lightforce Striker 170's with Yellow Combo Lens - Cross member notched and welded for mounting
Do you have any pictures from the install of the Lightforces? I love the look of the lights behind the grill on these cars. Did you wire yours to go with the current wiring (turn on with fogs, high beams, etc.) or are they on their own switch?
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #64
Do you have any pictures from the install of the Lightforces? I love the look of the lights behind the grill on these cars. Did you wire yours to go with the current wiring (turn on with fogs, high beams, etc.) or are they on their own switch?
I'll take a few pictures when I change the oil next as I have to remove the skid plate and then the front bumper for my intercooler.

I didn't take pictures at the time as it was a bit of a frustrating process and took a lot of time and effort. Notching the crossmember wasn't fun! Determining it was the only solution wasn't ideal either... but I'm confident it will still distribute considerable forces in the event of a crash.

I wanted to wire the lights to their own switch but couldn't find a clean location for an additional switch (CAD spec FiST's come fully loaded so all my switch locations have stock switches). I ended up adding a relay and tapping in to my high beams - I took main bulb out and used the multimeter to determine which line was the power for high beams and then used it to trigger the relay. Works great as I need my fog lights for driving as my light output is shit with my Latin-x headlight covers. Yep - I made my headlights worse! Bah... I have the Strikers for backroads!
 


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Location
Livonia
#65
I'll take a few pictures when I change the oil next as I have to remove the skid plate and then the front bumper for my intercooler.

I didn't take pictures at the time as it was a bit of a frustrating process and took a lot of time and effort. Notching the crossmember wasn't fun! Determining it was the only solution wasn't ideal either... but I'm confident it will still distribute considerable forces in the event of a crash.

I wanted to wire the lights to their own switch but couldn't find a clean location for an additional switch (CAD spec FiST's come fully loaded so all my switch locations have stock switches). I ended up adding a relay and tapping in to my high beams - I took main bulb out and used the multimeter to determine which line was the power for high beams and then used it to trigger the relay. Works great as I need my fog lights for driving as my light output is shit with my Latin-x headlight covers. Yep - I made my headlights worse! Bah... I have the Strikers for backroads!
Ok. I was thinking I'd wait till I either go for DHMs front race crash bar of maybe buy the Rally Innovations light bar to put on the front. Then I wanted to get 4 lights and wire two to the fogs and two to the high beams.

Though, I don't have welding equipment, so that could complicate things [:p]
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #66
Purchased intercooler charge pipes... I figured with the X-47 I need to remove any restrictions in place to maximize flow. Either way, I'm spending money I don't have. Yay!!

Can't wait for spring.
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #67
Ok. I was thinking I'd wait till I either go for DHMs front race crash bar of maybe buy the Rally Innovations light bar to put on the front. Then I wanted to get 4 lights and wire two to the fogs and two to the high beams.

Though, I don't have welding equipment, so that could complicate things [:p]
I checked out the Rally Innovations set up but decided that behind the grill was the option for me - it's just the look I prefer. Either way, they make a solid product and you can definitely mount a couple good sized lights on it.
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #69
More pictures!

Here is my skid plate, I'm hoping to add a small bend in it but for the moment it's quite flat. Perhaps my new front mounts (not seen) will help suck it up at the nose.

The holes in the skid plate are a bit wobbly as my big ass hole saw decided to strip out and thus it walked around on me a bit during the cutting process. It's a skid plate though so I didn't care to stop and make the trip to town for a new one. The hole saw found its way to the bin after!







Also added some thread sealant around the bungs on the Moutune Symposer Delete





And some pictures of the notching I did of my cross member - used my cut off wheel and got the job done, dropped it down and added some flat bar to the ends and 'welded' around it. I'm definitely an amateur and this was one of my first actual projects. Got the job done but it's not pretty!






The holes in the skid plate are a bit wobbly as my big ass hole saw decided to strip out and thus it walked around on me a bit during the cutting process. It's a skid plate though so I didn't care to stop and make the trip to town for a new one. The hole saw found its way to the bin after!

Also, adding a Fumoto drain valve - currently waiting on the adapter piece as it doesn't rotate when placed up to the oil pan. Bugger. It will be handy when I have the skid plate attached permanently when I want to change the oil.
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #70
Here's how I gapped my plugs...



and what came out of my catch can after... well a few thousand kilometers:


 


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Location
Rochester
#71
Here's how I gapped my plugs...



and what came out of my catch can after... well a few thousand kilometers:


I definitely LOL'd when I saw the gap technique but then I thought for a second....interesting
And
As far as the catch can got the same thing except it was 5k miles. Weird thing was it smelled like gasoline
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #74
... and my FiST is under the knife for some open heart surgery! X-47 being installed this week / weekend. I move pretty slow and I'll take my time - I've already got a good start with the cowl removed along with heatshields and 02 sensors so it's a good start!
 


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Location
Seattle
#75
Did you just Dynamat the rear hatch or did you do anywhere else as well? How much difference did it make with road noise?
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #76
Did you just Dynamat the rear hatch or did you do anywhere else as well? How much difference did it make with road noise?
I used it up to the point of the front seats - I didn't want to bother take them out... I covered the underside of the back seats but didn't pull much carpet beyond that. It did tone down some of the high pitched noises from rocks and such but if I wanted to go and actually sound deaden the FiST it would be tricky. I hated dealing with the thin panels and crappy clips... They're meant to go in and not come out - one use only.

On a side note... got the tune last night, I'll be installing it today and taking a video. Should be fun!
 


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Location
Calgary
#78
For those who don't know (me), that start up procedure is: Clutch & Throttle all the way in, hold power button? And this circulates the oil through the turbo?
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #79
For those who don't know (me), that start up procedure is: Clutch & Throttle all the way in, hold power button? And this circulates the oil through the turbo?
Yep! That's what I read...somewhere...


Although you can see I only press the 'start / stop' button once for the 3rd time and i goes for 10 seconds on its own.
 


OP
shouldbeasy

shouldbeasy

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Thread Starter #80
Pretty sure this is a 91 octane... but in reality I'm not 100%.

Tank is almost gone, next one will be 94 octane for sure and I'll also do some logs.

This is a 4th gear and a 3rd gear pull

 




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