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PerfBlue15's Daily driver Tarmac Spec Rally Theme Build Thread

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Perfblue15

Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #143
So my [MENTION=1848]mishimoto[/MENTION] radiator and coolant temperature sender adapter block showed up today. Once my DHM crash bar and intercooler show up I'll be ready to start wrenching on the car again.

 


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Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #144
*Update*
the ups guy showed up. With all my bad ass @<a href="http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/member.php?u=1098" target="_blank">DHM</a> parts. The parts all look beautiful and the quality is top notch. I'm very interested to see how everything performs on my vehicle.

Here is my quick build update/overview video
[video]https://youtu.be/1HkY3iOC0cc[/video]
 


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*Update*
the ups guy showed up. With all my bad ass @<a href="http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/member.php?u=1098" target="_blank">DHM</a> parts. The parts all look beautiful and the quality is top notch. I'm very interested to see how everything performs on my vehicle.

Here is my quick build update/overview video
[video]https://youtu.be/1HkY3iOC0cc[/video]
Congrats! Mine shouldn't be too far behind. Russ sent me some teaser pics yesterday. Definitely super excited for brown santa to show up with some @<a href="http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/member.php?u=1098" target="_blank">DHM</a> goodies!
 


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Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #146
Major update: Over the last weekend I installed my [MENTION=1098]DHM[/MENTION] Quickspool 290r kit and race IC. All I can say is this kit and the atp kit quality wise do not compare. When it comes to driving the car it is a night and day difference. The car actually has midrange power now and not just top end. Though I am not tuned by DHM I'm seeing 20+ PSI @4k rpm on 91 octane. This would never happen with the atp kit I would barely see 20psi @4500+ RPM with the atp set up. I should have gone DHM from the word go. As for the DHM race intercooler, I saw my charge air Temps go a degree below ambient today. So I'm guessing it works WELL. All in all I'm super satisfied with my DHM purchase and will be talking to Russ about a built motor if he will deal with me again lol.


Mandatory front end pictures



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Perfblue15

Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #149
Waiting on some logs from him, I think he dabbed himself into a coma lol.
That's about right. I've been working 6 day 70+ hour weeks. So I just haven't had time for the Fiesta I've been driving my DD mazda 3.
Honestly, on Adam's 1st revision the car feels so good that. I'm not even that eager for a revision. I will shoot him a log tonight so we can get a boost curve for you guys.




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Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #150
Logs sent to [MENTION=3805]Tune+[/MENTION] last night. I am not going to post anything yet as we are early in the tuning process. But at 250whp per Vdyno the car feels faster then it did at 300whp with the atp kit.


If you are considering the quickspool kit just do it. The [MENTION=1098]DHM[/MENTION] parts are top quality and they actually perform unlike a lot of the junk on the market. Also the more I drive with the race intercooler the more I like it. I don't see more then 10' charge temp increases on hard 4th gear pulls. Thanks again DHM!



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Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #153
I'm just going to leave these here.
[video]https://youtu.be/3b-SvtkvKFU[/video]

My tune is not yet completed but these are very promising numbers for 91 octane and wmi. The dyno I was on is also known to read low. I would just like to add the the DHM turbo kit is a night and day difference compared to the atp set up i previously had. The power band a bit lower and boost seems to roll in about 500-750rpms sooner then the atp set up.

In a few more weeks after some more revisions and a E30 and wmi tune I will post some more numbers. I'm hoping E30 will improve spool as well. Tune+ has seriously been killing it with my tune and fast turn around with revisions.

More pics and videos coming soon as track season is here.

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Quick update I wrapped up my water meth install last night and finally got some driving impressions on the way to work today. Those impressions are: Holy crap the car is faster then it was on E30. I have virtually 0 negative ignition corrections now and the car is not leaning out on 23psi. After I find a new data logging road (I just moved) I will get some revisions to the methanol tune and post some v dynos. I am seriously impressed with the water meth kit thus far.



+1 the failsafe was my biggest fear. I tested [MENTION=3805]Tune+[/MENTION] 's failsafe when I did my initial wiring/install. It does work and it will alert you.
How did you wire your fail safe in your wmi kit? did you have to purchase anything outside of what was included in the aem kit?
 


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Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #157
Long story warning:
Ok guys, it's been a long time since i posted in my build because frankly, I've been burnt out on the car for a while.

I had purchased a gen 2 2860 turbo and aux fuel to further push my build into the 380whp range. The car held up really well to the power level, but unfortunately because I drive it like I stole it, the stock motor ate the bearings on #4 and had a strange cracking issue in the cylinder head between the spark plugs and exhaust valves. (I really wish i took pictures of the tear down, but it all happened so fast that i never had time)

I then purchased a set of DHM Gen 2 pistons and K1 rods and decided to have a local builder/friend build me a forged motor set up.




He ended up getting the engine most of the way together and we attempted to fire it, only to find it would not hold an idle and had a CEL and a wrench light on. As he was claiming to diagnose the car, he kept it for a month after the first fire off, not really doing anything but timing it several times and poking at the wiring harness a lot. After a lot of run around, his wife then decided to divorce him and kick him out of their home, and I had to literally tow my car from his garage in pieces. I towed the car to my fathers repair shop to put it back together and try to figure out the lights and idle issues. We determined it was most likely a VCT/cam phaser issue, but did not have a ford IDS to properly diagnose the problem. I then decided to take the car to some dealer friends I had to diagnose the car. Upon replacing all of the VCT components and re timing the engine, the engine fired, the VCT finally worked, but caused the valves to collide with the pistons and bent the valves. Upon tear down, we found out that the person I had paid to build my motor at the start of all of this, never set the valve lash and had the head over machined. I then played the waiting game for 3 months trying to get an OEM head from ford. Once i finally got one, I finally got the car back, the day after my father passed away actually. After spending around $5,000 on the original motor build, it cost an additional $4,000 to get the car running again. It was an expensive and painful lesson, but my car was finally home, and I thought it was the end of my nightmare.




I then drove the car gentle for 500 miles noticing the engine drank a quart of oil. I then proceeded to drive it for another 500 miles, and it ate another 2 quarts of oil. At that point, I realized my new motor was trash. I purchased a set of Mountune internals and an OEM short block to stuff them into. I sent the block and Mountune internal kit to my friends at Jimm Grubbs Motorsport to gap the rings and hang the rods for me. (I honestly didn't have the time to gap them as i was preparing to move). I took my car apart in my, at the time, apartment garage with the help of my brother in law, and transferred all the components from my failed DHM internal motor to my new Mountune shortblock. It took the span of 2 weeks, but we got it all done and finally got the car running and sorted. Upon tear down of the DHM internal engine, I found significant cylinder wall scoring, significant piston skirt damage, and 3 out of 4 rod bearings failed. literally everything in that motor was trash.

That leads us to today and where the car is now.

The car now is sporting a Mountune forged short block, ARP head studs, Stratified port aux fuel, and of course, the gen 2 360R DHM turbo kit.

I am in the re tune process now with JST, and very happy with how the car is running. I can finally say my motor nightmare is behind me. I had a bit of a fiasco with Spec clutches not fitting at all. They then got me a disc that fit but, it made a noise like a rod knock with my clutch pedal let out. I have since Installed an OEM clutch and ended that nightmare as well. (another $400.00 lesson about vendors and manufacturers, and a clutch disc in the trash). We are aiming for around 400whp in the coming weeks, at which point I am done with modding this car. I plan to take some epic road trips and enjoy this car that i have gone through hell to have.
 


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TyphoonFiST

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Long story warning:
Ok guys, it's been a long time since i posted in my build because frankly, I've been burnt out on the car for a while.

I had purchased a gen 2 2860 turbo and aux fuel to further push my build into the 380whp range. The car held up really well to the power level, but unfortunately because I drive it like I stole it, the stock motor ate the bearings on #4 and had a strange cracking issue in the cylinder head between the spark plugs and exhaust valves. (I really wish i took pictures of the tear down, but it all happened so fast that i never had time)

I then purchased a set of DHM Gen 2 pistons and K1 rods and decided to have a local builder/friend build me a forged motor set up. He ended up getting the engine most of the way together and we attempted to fire it, only to find it would not hold an idle and had a CEL and a wrench light on. As he was claiming to diagnose the car, he kept it for a month after the first fire off, not really doing anything but timing it several times and poking at the wiring harness a lot. After a lot of run around, his wife then decided to divorce him and kick him out of their home, and I had to literally tow my car from his garage in pieces. I towed the car to my fathers repair shop to put it back together and try to figure out the lights and idle issues. We determined it was most likely a VCT/cam phaser issue, but did not have a ford IDS to properly diagnose the problem. I then decided to take the car to some dealer friends I had to diagnose the car. Upon replacing all of the VCT components and re timing the engine, the engine fired, the VCT finally worked, but caused the valves to collide with the pistons and bent the valves. Upon tear down, we found out that the person I had paid to build my motor at the start of all of this, never set the valve lash and had the head over machined. I then played the waiting game for 3 months trying to get an OEM head from ford. Once i finally got one, I finally got the car back, the day after my father passed away actually. After spending around $5,000 on the original motor build, it cost an additional $4,000 to get the car running again. It was an expensive and painful lesson, but my car was finally home, and I thought it was the end of my nightmare.

I then drove the car gentle for 500 miles noticing the engine drank a quart of oil. I then proceeded to drive it for another 500 miles, and it ate another 2 quarts of oil. At that point, I realized my new motor was trash. I purchased a set of Mountune internals and an OEM short block to stuff them into. I sent the block and Mountune internal kit to my friends at Jimm Grubbs Motorsport to gap the rings and hang the rods for me. (I honestly didn't have the time to gap them as i was preparing to move). I took my car apart in my, at the time, apartment garage with the help of my brother in law, and transferred all the components from my failed DHM internal motor to my new Mountune shortblock. It took the span of 2 weeks, but we got it all done and finally got the car running and sorted. Upon tear down of the DHM internal engine, I found significant cylinder wall scoring, significant piston skirt damage, and 3 out of 4 rod bearings failed. literally everything in that motor was trash. That leads us to today and where the car is now.

The car now is sporting a Mountune forged short block, ARP head studs, Stratified port aux fuel, and of course, the gen 2 360R DHM turbo kit. I am in the re tune process now with JST, and very happy with how the car is running. I can finally say my motor nightmare is behind me. I had a bit of a fiasco with Spec clutches not fitting at all. They then got me a disc that fit but, it made a noise like a rod knock with my clutch pedal let out. I have since Installed an OEM clutch and ended that nightmare as well. (another $400.00 lesson about vendors and manufacturers, and a clutch disc in the trash). We are aiming for around 400whp in the coming weeks, at which point I am done with modding this car. I plan to take some epic road trips and enjoy this car that i have gone through hell to have.
How much for the short block and where from? Do you have a link...I searched mountune and nothing just 2.0 ST &2.3 RS.

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Perfblue15

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Thread Starter #160
How much for the short block and where from? Do you have a link...I searched mountune and nothing just 2.0 ST &2.3 RS.

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I purchased the 1.6 component kit from mountune for $1,000 and short block from ford for $750. I then paid Jimm gurbb Motorsports $450 to gap the rings and install the forged pistons in the block for me. (I just didn't have time to do it) I then did the rest of the engine assembly and transferring of parts from there.

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