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Question on fitment

RAAMaudio

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#41
Note: I probably need to edit this a bit more, had to walk the dogs, calls, messages, etc....but most should be right on.

I have another 25.4mm, + 2.3mm on the other side of the wheel but had to use 2mm spacers to clear the struts with the race tires so I have a net of 25.7mm more wheel width inside which reduces the offset issue a great deal. I wish it was a better but it is the best that is available for my needs and would give up a bit of grip by running 8" wheels in a +40 or whatever is best offset but none are available I would prefer to use.

I also do not daily drive the car, still only 5k miles, bought in April 2014, and do extensive inspections and maintenance regularly. I know my car will wear out faster than most as I put miles on it as I drive it very hard on track, more so on the street than most cars I have built and I have harder suspension bushings, monoball uppers on the front coilovers, love to jump the curbs and get a bit of air under two or more tires if that gets me around the corner faster.

For those less nuts than I am about all out handling, braking, and acceleration on a road course and still have a very streetable car and even use the warranty if needed, may or may not have the budget, time, experience, etc...to carefully maintain the car...it is best to go with standard engineering practice and set it up for real world use, especially if you have crappy roads to deal with.

For those more interested in how the car looks than how it performs, same deal, reduce the handling, most likely the ride while at it, accept the added wear and tear....I am OK with it, I just want to help it be understood what is really happening when such mods are done.

Stock suspension, we all know it is pretty harsh, that transfers more energy into the chassis thus more wear and even effects the tires and wheels if they cannot move freely enough to deflect some of the energy. I have BC race spec coilovers and they are doing a great job, best I could get at the time, will change if something truly better comes out. With those, all the bushings changed, monoball uppers, tires and wheels mentioned, my car rides far better than stock yet will corner far faster than I would want to test it on public roads.

All that typed out just to say the stock suspension takes a lot of energy and places it on all associated parts, add "poked" wheels with less than perfect offsets and it multiplies the effect.
 


dyn085

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#42
I need to find my drawings as I have done the work on many offsets and as I recall the 15x8, +25mm version of the wheels I run would stick out just about as much as the 15x9 +35mm wheels I now have on the car. I had to change the rear camber to fit what I run and roll and pull the fenders quite a bit on both ends of the car.
Note: I probably need to edit this a bit more...

I have another 25.4mm, + 2.3mm on the other side of the wheel but had to use 2mm spacers to clear the struts with the race tires so I have a net of 25.7mm more wheel width inside which reduces the offset issue a great deal. I wish it was a better but it is the best that is available for my needs and would give up a bit of grip by running 8" wheels in a +40 or whatever is best offset but none are available I would prefer to use.

For those more interested in how the car looks than how it performs, same deal, reduce the handling, most likely the ride while at it, accept the added wear and tear....I am OK with it, I just want to help it be understood what is really happening when such mods are done.

All that typed out just to say the stock suspension takes a lot of energy and places it on all associated parts, add "poked" wheels with less than perfect offsets and it multiplies the effect.
Yes, you definitely need to edit things more. I understand that you draw pictures but if you actually did all of the math in this discussion you would realize that you are telling someone that a 16x8 et 20, which is only .3mm further out than what you state you are currently running (2.3mm further outboard before subtracting your 2mm spacers), will not fit. This is why I say that people need to just learn and do the math, because everything that you're saying is contradicting yourself.

It gets better when you start talking about people being concerned with 'looks than how it performs' despite the fact that the discussed wheels with no spacers are going to sit in almost exactly the same spot regarding poke. And then you go on with your last sentence about 'poke with less than perfect offsets' because it's exactly the same amount of poke you already stated you are running. You must not realize it, but you're telling everyone else that they can't run what you're already running and that what you're running is less than optimal for performance...

So you've literally already proven that the OP can use the wheels listed in the original post and used yourself as the example. Obviously there will be more work needed than just bolting on the wheels (like re-drilling the hubs, adding the camber, pulling the fenders, etc.), but it's not even 'hard' or 'expensive' work-it's just time consuming and not free. It gets even better when we realize that the wheels in the original post are et 21, which means that the will actually have less poke than your exact setup...

So again, it's SIMPLE MATH and MEASUREMENTS. And yes, I edited out all of the chatter to add a small amount of brevity.
 


RAAMaudio

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#43
I guess you missed the parts about how far my wheels stick out even with rolled and pulled fenders.

Rolling and pulling fenders at least on the rear is physically demanding work at it also created some creases in the lips I am not sure anybody doing this could avoid. Not all have rollers, not all are willing to do the work, not all are willing to have a bit less than perfect looking fenders.

Changing the rear camber is a very serious task as nothing is made as a bolt on part I know of, I had to cut the axle flanges loose and reposition and weld them back up, any body else done that or care to, have you ever attempted anything like it, not likely in the least;)

As stated I may need to edit the prior post a bit so my numbers might not be correct though close enough but the eyeball look is pretty damn accurate, the wheels stick out with all my mods, very few would want to do that I would imagine, correctly.

Do you have anything worthwhile to comment on or just being a dick like usual?
 


dyn085

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#44
I guess you missed the parts about how far my wheels stick out even with rolled and pulled fenders.

Rolling and pulling fenders at least on the rear is physically demanding work at it also created some creases in the lips I am not sure anybody doing this could avoid. Not all have rollers, not all are willing to do the work, not all are willing to have a bit less than perfect looking fenders.

Changing the rear camber is a very serious task as nothing is made as a bolt on part I know of, I had to cut the axle flanges loose and reposition and weld them back up, any body else done that or care to, have you ever attempted anything like it, not likely in the least;)

As stated I may need to edit the prior post a bit so my numbers might not be correct though close enough but the eyeball look is pretty damn accurate, the wheels stick out with all my mods, very few would want to do that I would imagine, correctly.

Do you have anything worthwhile to comment on or just being a dick like usual?
This is why I don't waste my time by trying to help the community with wheel fitment, with the exception of giving the advice of people doing their own measurements. You keep coming into threads telling people that they're following trends or fads that you yourself are following, but somehow think you're exempt from your own criticisms. And then, when I use your own words to show you your own hypocrisy, I'm the dick. I may as well break out the popcorn.



It's automotive work, not brain science. Just because you couldn't pull your fenders without damage doesn't mean that others couldn't, or at least couldn't pay someone to do it properly. Same thing with the axle flanges. Your arguments are invalid.
 


dyn085

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#47
Nope, just being negative as usual and steering this off topic.
If that's what you think then you're a prime example as to why wheel fitment discussions are dead because I was the one that requested this section of the forum be created to begin with.
 


RAAMaudio

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#48
Sorry OP and Admin, I have not been into this for awhile now, got a bit carried away, my bad.

Rick
 


OP
TheGreenOne
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Thread Starter #50
I think i have found the final solution. I can get a set of Rota Slipstreams in 4x100 16x7 +40 offset that weigh 13.5 lbs a piece, use a 20mm adapter, and with 205/45r16 tires, the wheel should still fit fine, and it'll be a bit more flush, with the additional 27mm of poke.
 


dyn085

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#51
You should probably do some test-fitting and measuring before ordering tires. At the very least you'll want a narrow 205.
 


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