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Big Turbo Results Thread

Hijinx

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These too are on the stock airbox.

Here are a few on 93 alone. We run out of fuel around the 300 mark. Can we push over? Yes, but not safely.



This is 93 on aux. Even with extra fuel, 93 can only deliver so much power.

 


twolf

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Has anyone with a quickspool/gt290r kit been to the drag strip yet?

Speculation/slips on how fast it would run?
 


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These too are on the stock airbox.

Here are a few on 93 alone. We run out of fuel around the 300 mark. Can we push over? Yes, but not safely.



This is 93 on aux. Even with extra fuel, 93 can only deliver so much power.

If stock fuel lines can safely net you up to around 300 then the aux 93 tune seems more of a deliberate safety cutoff around 300 even though there is more fuel available. Or is that really the max 93 will give you?
 


Hijinx

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If stock fuel lines can safely net you up to around 300 then the aux 93 tune seems more of a deliberate safety cutoff around 300 even though there is more fuel available. Or is that really the max 93 will give you?
That is really the max 93 will give you. It's the octane available, heat management, and 1.6L. I have some higher vDynos on aux 93, but I also have highe vDynos on 93 without aux. They are scary lean for 93. Lean means heat. Heat breaks thing. Regular gas doesn't have the same cooling properties, and, of course, octane levels as E30.
 


Hijinx

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Here's another vDyno for you wonderful folks. These are back to back runs, approximately 90 minutes apart, in identical weather conditions, on the stock airbox and cpe intake. Graph files are labeled accordingly. Going in I knew there wouldn't be a difference, but my forthcoming plans will require more than the stock airbox. Interpret how you wish, but there it is.

 


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I have evidence of no billet wheel not helping spool on 2560r, but it does help on the top end potential, it could actually hurt a tiny bit. (assuming its a gtx style wheel upgrade and not just a billet wheel for the sake of billet)
Forged race wheels are a big advantage when it comes to spool up. At 134 grams, a forged OEM Garrett GTX3582r wheel is lighter than the original GT wheel, which weight around 142gr. A 11-blades race billet wheel is 110 grams. I myself use 5+5 billet for our street builds which top the scale at a mere 84gr. We are talking about a 58 grams difference with the stock GT wheel and 50 gr with a Garrett GTX wheel. So much weight have a huge impact on inertia and spoolup. The 5+5 blades are a tad noisy but they spread power more evenly across the map and they spool much quicker for better low end torque.
 


Hijinx

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Not a fan of the 2J intake? Just curious why you choose to use stock or cpe (which is a great intake) over the 2J
I had one long ago, when they first hit the market. I went on a 14 hour road trip. After the 14 hour return, I promptly removed and sold it. The 2J is awesome, but I couldn't lie with the sound it produced. After I went DHM big turbo, I was told by another BT member the sound was greatly reduced with a BT. I chose cp-e because it's got a nice big filter, it's full 3" which I'll need when my new engine is finished and it's sealed... Also, the timing was perfect because I had some money from a side gig burning a hole in my pocket, and I really wanted to scratch my car parts itch.

I actually had a Cobb intake at one point as well (on Cyborg). We found (back when I was tuned by Panda), through some testing that the intake filter was too restrictive in the airbox. Ultimately, the stock air box with a drop-in has been best for the price.
 


frankiefiesta

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I had one long ago, when they first hit the market. I went on a 14 hour road trip. After the 14 hour return, I promptly removed and sold it. The 2J is awesome, but I couldn't lie with the sound it produced. After I went DHM big turbo, I was told by another BT member the sound was greatly reduced with a BT. I chose cp-e because it's got a nice big filter, it's full 3" which I'll need when my new engine is finished and it's sealed... Also, the timing was perfect because I had some money from a side gig burning a hole in my pocket, and I really wanted to scratch my car parts itch.

I actually had a Cobb intake at one point as well (on Cyborg). We found (back when I was tuned by Panda), through some testing that the intake filter was too restrictive in the airbox. Ultimately, the stock air box with a drop-in has been best for the price.
Yeah I hear ya there.. I did a 6 hour trip with the 2J. Really gets to you after awhile. I purchased some ensolite and raammat, which really helped with the noise. Now I would say it's not much louder than any other open element filter intake for this car.
 


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I can't say enough about how happy I was after insulating the 2J intake. I really like it now. I liked the power before and it helped spool up, but its really nice now that doesn't drive me crazy. Still a bit loud on the highway.

The cyborg compressor wheel weight is the reason it picks up lag over the stock turbo for sure. We thought the clipping of the turbine was reason we picked up lag. After many many turbo swaps, and running a stock turbine with a cyborg wheel, we not only ended up optimizing the turbine clip, but we found the comp wheel weight is the source of lag, not the turbine. Not that is has much lag really anyway, but just the difference from stock to the cyborg wheel, it def smoothed out.

We have been asked to do a bigger cyborg comp wheel, but it can't happen without a bigger turbine wheel. The stock turbine can only generate so much torq/power and a bigger compressor is like putting a geo storm 1.3L into a honda accord. That turbine ( the stock one ) just is not going to want to spin a bigger comp wheel. So on top of modding a compressor housing about $300-$500 more, we'd need to change the turbine wheel completely. Which means a $150 or more turbine. Then... One off custom bearings for the bigger turbine in the small housing. Then... Machine the turbine housing that may not even have enough meat in it to machine out... And it would push the cyborg pricing into the ATP kit complete area...

I may do it anyway. Lol
 


Sekred

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Went out to do another V Dyno run this morning, it is the last month of autumn and finally ambient temps have started to drop. 58F when I did this run.

Virtual Dyno 14C.jpg
 


Sekred

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[MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] you're running the Peron EFR kit, right?
Yes, that's correct. Peron kit and tune using a E-Boost to control the boost, set at 22.5psi.

I have a feeling those V-Dyno numbers may be a little on the high side
 


TempeST

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Yes, that's correct. Peron kit and tune using a E-Boost to control the boost, set at 22.5psi.

I have a feeling those V-Dyno numbers may be a little on the high side
Even so, great numbers on 22.5 psi. I will be running a 6258 EFR kit soon but with a 0.85 a/r v band turbine housing. So it's great to see how the power comes on. What fuel are you using?
 


Sekred

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I am running 98 RON, so similar to your 93/94 I think. My tune is OST, so there is still a little bit of timing left there I think
 


TempeST

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Yeah, probably. But we shall see. It's the only vband size for the EFR B1 Frame turbo. I have the .64 a/r t2 housing as well so if results are not pleasing I can change it over. But most likely going to go twin scroll if it's not where I want it with the Vband.
 


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