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Let's talk Fiesta ST hitches

TDavis

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I don't care what anyone says. I'd rock the shit out of a hitch on my FiST and trailer the Duc with it.
 


alexrex20

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That's the plan! My Ducs leave me stranded more than not and it's much easier to load them onto my bike trailer than the back of my truck. And I'd look cool too!

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Woods247

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I installed the Curt hitch and began my trailer build. The hitch went on easily after I removed the rear section of my CP-e exhaust.





 


Woods247

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Is it hard to remove and install quickly?
Not really. You'd need to bring the fish wires for the bolts just in case they need to be reinstalled. I suppose it depends on your exhaust too. The CP-e rear section comes off easily. I'm going to corner balance my car again to compensate for the weight change. I also plan to remove my rear seats so that might offset it as well.

I could probably remove it in 15 minutes including the time it takes to setup jack stands.
 


alexrex20

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I think it'll take you 15min+ just to fish the "nuts" out from the frame rails. TDavis, what's your reasoning for wanting to take it on and off? I'm guessing for weight?

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Woods247

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I think it'll take you 15min+ just to fish the "nuts" out from the frame rails. TDavis, what's your reasoning for wanting to take it on and off? I'm guessing for weight?

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.

Haha! It was actually simple. I must’ve watched the eTrailer video ten times before I installled the hitch.
 


alexrex20

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.

Haha! It was actually simple. I must’ve watched the eTrailer video ten times before I installled the hitch.
Installing is super easy. Removing the nuts (during uninstall) is the hard part lol

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RAAMaudio

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You could tack weld the nuts in place and make it a very easy job, especially if your rear exhaust is converted to a slip fitting or better yet V band like I used to allow a quick change to straight pipe for the track:)
 


cantdog

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Hi there. Reading through this thread over the years and put a drawtite hitch on a stock 2016 ST. As expected, it blunks around. Was wondering if any concensus has been reached as to what exhaust hangers to order, some say cobb but then others say cobb still bangs, some say mountune, etc etc.

Has there been any concensus reached with which combination of draw-tite hitch + aftermarket exhaust hangers work best?
 


kivnul

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Consensus, no. It somewhat depends on what exhaust you are running. I believe Cobb and Mountune hangers are both shorter and stiffer than OEM. Whoosh makes stiffer but same length as OEM. You should only have to replace the last 1 (or 2) hangers.
 


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There was one on my used 17 that I took off immediately. I can check the part number, dont even recall the brand. It fit perfect when I took it off. Pretty sure mine was used as a hitch bike carrier deal.
 


flbchbm

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I posted some pics on my installation. The issue is not JUST the hangers are short, but that they allow lateral movement. Whatever method you choose, you need prevent the sideways movement on the arms. Having said all that, last night I installed my 3k mile used Borla exhaust. Well, it is practically touching the whole time. I have two main ideas in mind.

1. wrap the muffler in the two places where it strikes in manifold.
2. secure silicone padding to the hitch's huge plate or just wrap the whole thing in silicone sheeting to minimize baking the paint off of it.

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/trailer-hitch-muffler-hangers-my-way.21227/#post-363164
 


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Hello all, I figured I would add in to the hitch issues. I installed a draw tie hitch from etrailer. I used it primarily for a two bike carrier for my mountain bikes. It did work, but it bounced a lot and made me nervous and I hated how low it sat under the bumper. I also had a fork mounted rack for the roof, but it is a huge pain and i lost almost 4mpg with the rack on and no bikes, and almost 6 with the bikes. I decided to take a page out of another members book and make my own. I did use the original hitch, just cut it up and used it how i felt. Also, I have a X-force varex muffler 3" in and 3" out, with a 3" pipe from the turbo back. It did bounce around like crazy and irritated me. The muffler is significantly larger than the stock and barely fit in place before the hitch. I had to cut part of the bumper and some sheet metal. But it does fit and sounds great. I posted pics of the transformation below. I also wanted to mention that it does not move at all now.
To fix the muffler hitting, I ordered some hangers from whoosh motorsports, not a sound out of it since. And it sits in the correct location.
Everything is still bolted on like the original hitch, I just cut and welded the original so it fit inside the bumper cover. When its not in use, i use a rubber hitch plug. Just to mention, It did get painted before the bumper went back on.lol
 


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I recently installed the CURT 11067 Class 1 Trailer Hitch 1-1/4-Inch. I also put a little D ring as a sudo recovery tow point. Install was easy, 30 minutes by myself. Install instructions included cutting the heat shield of the exhaust which I didn't do. My only complaint is that with stock exhaust it would bump part of the hitch assembly (probably because I didn't cut the heat shield). Either way I just put some dynomatting and the sound stopped.
 


flbchbm

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I recently installed the CURT 11067 Class 1 Trailer Hitch 1-1/4-Inch. I also put a little D ring as a sudo recovery tow point. Install was easy, 30 minutes by myself. Install instructions included cutting the heat shield of the exhaust which I didn't do. My only complaint is that with stock exhaust it would bump part of the hitch assembly (probably because I didn't cut the heat shield). Either way I just put some dynomatting and the sound stopped.
Cutting the heat shield does nothing for the muffler hitting the large plate. The plate was not formed/designed to be close fitting along the body pan. And if you have an aftermarket muffler like the Borla, hit hits on the driver's side. After much deliberation with myself and taking a close look at where it is hitting, I have decided to use SS zip ties inside a thick-walled silicone tube, inside a silicone oven rack rail cover. I will still use the aftermarket hangers.
 


Last edited:

flbchbm

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Hello all, I figured I would add in to the hitch issues. I installed a draw tie hitch from etrailer. I used it primarily for a two bike carrier for my mountain bikes. It did work, but it bounced a lot and made me nervous and I hated how low it sat under the bumper. I also had a fork mounted rack for the roof, but it is a huge pain and i lost almost 4mpg with the rack on and no bikes, and almost 6 with the bikes. I decided to take a page out of another members book and make my own. I did use the original hitch, just cut it up and used it how i felt. Also, I have a X-force varex muffler 3" in and 3" out, with a 3" pipe from the turbo back. It did bounce around like crazy and irritated me. The muffler is significantly larger than the stock and barely fit in place before the hitch. I had to cut part of the bumper and some sheet metal. But it does fit and sounds great. I posted pics of the transformation below. I also wanted to mention that it does not move at all now.
To fix the muffler hitting, I ordered some hangers from whoosh motorsports, not a sound out of it since. And it sits in the correct location.
Everything is still bolted on like the original hitch, I just cut and welded the original so it fit inside the bumper cover. When its not in use, i use a rubber hitch plug. Just to mention, It did get painted before the bumper went back on.lol
Love it, with the exception of accessing the hitch pin. But..... what sort of weight ranges are you going to load test the tongue and tow with? 300-400 tongue, etc. 2 ton tow, etc.?
 


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Charleston, SC, USA
Cutting the heat shield does nothing for the muffler hitting the large plate. The plate was not formed/designed to be close fitting along the body pan. And if you have an aftermarket muffler like the Borla, hit hits on the driver's side. After much deliberation with myself and taking a close look at where it is hitting, I have decided to use SS zip ties inside a thick-walled silicone tube, inside a silicone over rack rail cover. I will still use the aftermarket hangers.
Your are right, the heat shield was never the problem for noise. I believe it was recommended to make the install easier. I would try the motor mounts from Ron@whoosh before all that. Like i said, even with the larger than stock muffler, i get no noise.
 


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Location
Charleston, SC, USA
I cut a half circle for the hitch pin. It isnt too bad to get to, and the car is stock height for now. As of now i carry a rola two bike carrier. The rack is roughly 65lbs and the bike is 25ish. Ive had two bikes on it exceeding 110lbs on the tongue. As of now it hasnt moved. I didnt really build it to pull a trailer, although i do have one i plan on building soon to accommodate a roof rack and kayaks for camping. I just don't know that i will put it behind the FiST.
 


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