All 4 brakes stuck after pad change

[ihaveafiestast]

So last week, I replaced pads and rotors for all 4 wheels on my 2016 ST. I used these pads:
https://brakeperformance.com/brake-pads/semi-metallic-premium-brake-pads.php, p/n: PS-17300 front, PS-08860 rear.
Also bought their premium slotted/drilled rotors.

Put the parts on fine, pump the brakes, wheels spin ok.

Actually start the car and drive, hit the brakes, and all 4 of them do not fully release. The release enough to not lock, but it's tight enough that it feels like I'm dragging the handbrake or something.

Has anyone heard of something like this? Anything I should check on? Dealer says maybe these aftermarket pads are too big, but isn't really sure and says they haven't seen this before.

 

[Questionable]

Did you bleed the brakes as a part of your service? I've had my brakes lock up after bleeding several times.

Try pulling the brake pedal up towards you after releasing the brakes and see if that frees things up. It's dumb, but that was one way I got around dragging brakes.

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[Tonda-B]

Has anyone heard of something like this?

Yes.
When you did not finish the rear brake pistons screwing in to the end, you will be in the same situation with all available brake pads.
Screwing in to the end is important, not pressing down.

 

[ihaveafiestast]

Did you bleed the brakes as a part of your service? I've had my brakes lock up after bleeding several times.
Try pulling the brake pedal up towards you after releasing the brakes and see if that frees things up. It's dumb, but that was one way I got around dragging brakes.
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Nope, didn't have any problems with pressure, figured a bleed wasn't needed. Pulling up on the pedal doesn't help.

Yes.
When you did not finish the rear brake pistons screwing in to the end, you will be in the same situation with all available brake pads.
Screwing in to the end is important, not pressing down.

So only the rear ones are screwed in, right? I didn't screw them till it bottomed, but it was pretty close. I'll try pulling the calipers and bottoming the pistons, I guess.

 

[Questionable]

Nope, didn't have any problems with pressure, figured a bleed wasn't needed. Pulling up on the pedal doesn't help.

Hm. That different than any brake issues I personally have encountered before, then.

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[PunkST]

Did you grease the points where the pads slide on the brackets and re lube the guide pins? Rust or debris there will cause the pads to hang up.

 

[maestromaestro]

Check your guide pins and their lubrication. I don’t think that piston retraction is an issue - you only need to retract them so that you could slide the caliper over the rotor. If they don’t *fully* retract, that’s fine but if indeed the pistons are not properly lubed and don’t go back *enough*, you will experience drag.

 

[germanFST]

This may be a long shot, How low were your pads? if pads were very worn out and during service brake fluid was added to the reservoir, then you pushed the brake caliper pistons apart, but did not remove the excess of fluid in the reservoir it could potentially be overfilled creating binding in the brake system, I have seen this in the motorcycle word more than 8 times in 20 years. Hope this helps.

 

[ihaveafiestast]

So, here's the story as it stands:
1. Dealer said the aftermarket pads were too thick. I bought OEM ones just to make sure, turns out they're identical in size and shape. Thanks, Dealer.
2. Dealer suggested that I damaged the lines. I did *not* and even if I did, how likely is it that I ruined all 4 in the same way? Thanks, Dealer.
3. You guys offer very helpful advice above. I go ahead and install new OEM pads per advice here: Wind back the pistons fully, re-greasing the sliders and contact points, making sure everything moves (I did this before, but I did it again) and I made sure the fluid level was correct. This didn't help. Same problems.
4. I hooked up this ForScan app on an ODBII reader, ran the ABS self-diagnostic, and then ran the automatic service routines: ABS Bleed, Pump calibration, isolation calibration.
It still seems to bind when I start the car, but loosens up once I start rolling. I need to get a few miles and some hard braking in to make sure it won't do it again, but this looks like an ABS module issue, rather than a hardware problem.

Thanks for the help so far guys!

 

[Snrub]

Regarding #2 - I agree, it seems unlikely, but were you certain not to unduely bend the brake hoses, didn't let the calipers hang from them, etc? I have experienced dragging issues with lousy hoses on a different car before, but it certainly didn't cause noticeable friction.

Did you install new hardware with the pads? Do the slider all slide evenly?

What are the odds that the ABS module failed immediately after a pad change? It might have, but...

I'd recommend that you consider doing a full brake bleed too. It's cheap and fluid has a finite shelf life.

 

[kivnul]

It has been stated before on here that pushing brake fluid backwards thru the abs modules can mess them up and has been recommended that when pushing pistons in to open the bleeder valves during to let the fluid out.

 

[PunkST]

^ i always just take the cap off the master. That way its not pushing against something and building pressure. Havent had an issue.

 

[Ford ST]

It has been stated before on here that pushing brake fluid backwards thru the abs modules can mess them up and has been recommended that when pushing pistons in to open the bleeder valves during to let the fluid out.

That is absolutely correct I also learned this in automotive School.

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[ihaveafiestast]

It has been stated before on here that pushing brake fluid backwards thru the abs modules can mess them up and has been recommended that when pushing pistons in to open the bleeder valves during to let the fluid out.

Welp, that sounds like exactly the problem we have here. It's much better, car is driveable, but it still feels like the brakes don't always release correctly. The "Hill start unavailable" warning also pops up every time the car starts.
I plan on doing a manual bleed, but does anyone have a solution to fix this, or should I take it to a pro?

Edit: Searching shows that the pedal switch might be bad, causing this problem, and Forscan shows a "C0040" code for brake pedal switch A. If i'm reading this right, the code isn't active, and the switch is currently ok? Guess I need to replace that switch as well. I'm guessing I'l be able to see that switch under the pedal if I go looking?

 

[mattw]

Hey,

I think I just had this exact issue.
Try pulling up on the pedal with your foot and see if you can spin the wheels freely while pulling up. If so read below.

I replaced brake booster and master cylinder before realizing the piece that presses the switches on the brake pedal had hit my throttle pedal(had spacer) and had bent up slightly, causing the pedal to be held down ever so slightly. Bending this back down a bit resolved my issue (just make sure it sill presses the switches so your brake lights turn off).

Matt

 

[ihaveafiestast]

Remaining problem is definitely related to the switch, but I don't think it's bent. Pedal has to go down about 1/3 of it's travel before brake lights come on, and before the cruise control cancels. I also get the "hill assist not available" message the first time I press the brake that far.

Car acts normal if I brake lightly, but they'll drag slightly when I push it the pedal enough to get the brake lights to come on. Then I can pull up on the pedal, and they'll release.

So in summary, there's (at least) 2 problems during this pad-change:
* All 4 brakes would lock up tight after initial pad change. Probably because I pushed the fluid back up the lines, rather than through the bleeders. Fix for that was ABS needed to be auto-bled via ForScan.
* Brake light switch A is faulty in some way. I've ordered a new switch.

Hey,

I think I just had this exact issue.
Try pulling up on the pedal with your foot and see if you can spin the wheels freely while pulling up. If so read below.

That's happening now.

Bending this back down a bit resolved my issue (just make sure it sill presses the switches so your brake lights turn off).

Fingers crossed nothing is bent. Doesn't look like it, going to replace the switch first.

 

[jayrod1980]

After I changed my pads and rotors I had some brake drag. The ABS bleed procedure through FORScan fixed it, but I recently flushed the fluid because it had never been changed and my car is 4 years old. Flushing by pumping the pedal took a lot of force on the pedal, but having never done it before, I thought this might be normal. I did one brake at a time with the bleeder valve open from each rear to the front. I then completed the ABS bleed again.

When I went to back out of my garage, the hill start unavailable message popped up and I realized the brakes were stuck. I then opened the reservoir and redid the bleed. FORScan showed three ABS faults. I reset the module with the tool and also ran the two ABS calibration options. I cleared the DTC codes and then did the ABS bleed again. Scanning for codes again, everything remained normal.

I’m going to check the car in the morning, but when the hill start warning popped up my pedal was really firm. Pulling up on the pedal didn’t seem to do anything. Where’s this brake switch at that could have been bent? My brakes worked perfectly before doing the flush. I have no air in the lines previously the brakes would drag a little before I did the ABS bleed after changing the pads out. I figured it was from pumping fluid back through the ABS rather than cracking the bleeders while pushing the pistons back.

Did you need to change that brake switch after all? How does it even get bent? I have a pedal spacer on the accelerator, but it’s been in the car for almost 4 years and previously had zero brake problems before this pad/rotor change and flush.

 

[jayrod1980]

Pulling up on my brake pedal and then running the abs bleed a few times and now the brakes work normal. Re-doing bed in procedure caused the hill assist warning to come on when I came to a stop though. Turns out my brake reservoir is a little overfull. Opened and closed the reservoir cap and everything seems fine again. I’ll remove the excess fluid when I get home. Man doing brakes on this car makes for a finicky process with the ABS modules.

 

[D1JL]

Man doing brakes on this car makes for a finicky process with the ABS modules.

There is nothing finicky about doing a brake job on this or any other ABS car.
I do know that many have used a shortcut method with trouble.
However, with ABS, you should never force fluid backwards through the ABS modual.
Although it has been proved that it can work, many times this practice can cause a valve to stick.
Since now all cars are equipped with ABS, the new standard should always be to open the brake bleeder to retract the caliper piston.
This should also apply to the bleeders on cars with rear drum brakes.

Personally I don't care what method you use.
I just think it would be better to use a method that might cause the lease amount of possible problems.

 

[jayrod1980]

There is nothing finicky about doing a brake job on this or any other ABS car.
I do know that many have used a shortcut method with trouble.
However, with ABS, you should never force fluid backwards through the ABS modual.
Although it has been proved that it can work, many times this practice can cause a valve to stick.
Since now all cars are equipped with ABS, the new standard should always be to open the brake bleeder to retract the caliper piston.
This should also apply to the bleeders on cars with rear drum brakes.

Personally I don't care what method you use.
I just think it would be better to use a method that might cause the lease amount of possible problems.

Agreed on the method when changing pads/compressing pistons... I would have had I known better. I however had more issues flushing the fluid using the old pedal pump method. Every brake bled had their bleeders open. I guess using a vac pump should be the only method when flushing fluid?