Beginner track prep for 101k mile car

[EmpireGrade]

I recently bought a 101k mile 2016, and I'd like to use it for occasional track days (I'm a beginner). Besides the usual brakes and tires, what are things to look for on a stock high-milage vehicle before taking it to the track?

 

[Cdnmr2v6]

Fluids (especially a high quality brake fluid) and all maintenance items.

 

[EmpireGrade]

All fluids were recently changed, but still need to upgrade the brake fluid. Car seems to be in good mechanical condition, no leaks or obvious wear. Looking for things beyond normal maintenance that might show up on the track.

Any seals or bushings to look out for? Hoses, brackets, or welds to check?

 

[Cdnmr2v6]

I've only done autox in mine, but you might want to look into an upgraded radiator. I've seen temps on my car go above normal on some hot afternoon runs.

 

[ztrahan]

For your first track days, I would just focus on good fluids and everything at the correct levels, brakes and tires.Keep an eye on the idiot gauges if you don't have any other temp read-outs.

In the future, stainless steel brake lines and upgraded motor mounts. Upgraded radiator if you run into overheating issues.

 

[haste]

Original motor mounts? I'd suggest replacing the passenger side mount and rear mount at a minimum if they are original.

Radiator is a great suggestion also.

 

[EmpireGrade]

Rear motor mount is aftermarket, but it was installed around the time the car was purchased, and all the others are original oem. Could replace both side and rear.

Do the motor mounts wear out, or is the suggestion to replace them with stiffer mounts in general?

 

[ronmcdon]

radiator and maybe fmic to reduce heat soak. with fluids def also look into trans fluid. really like bg syncro from whoosh and now using motul gear 300. brake fluid love endless 650s although it is pricier. definitely get alignment bolts and see if you can dial in -2 front and -0.8 to -1 rear.

if you ever go with coilovers setting it at -3 front is even better imo.

if you feel spendy at some point recommend lsd and coilovers (love the meister r's and you get play with different spring rates)

 

[Woods247]

If it was tracked or wrecked in its first life I’d pull the brake rotors off and check for cracks in the hubs front and rear. ATE Type 200 brake fluid will be best unless you want to spend more of Castrol SRF. These cars kill brakes on tracks without a LSD. Some will suggest Motul brake fluid but I boiled it first track day. Change engine and gear oil. Good healthy gear oil is as critical as engine oil. Make sure coolant is full. They do overheat but you can run the heater at max to help for now. Just slow down and take a couple of cooldown laps if it gets hot. Good target hot tire pressure temps front and rear are 30-33 give or take a psi or 2. You can play with that to help handling. More pressure in the rear will make it rotate easier. Lower rear will calm it down. You’ll want your best tires up front so rotate if needed. Start there and have fun!

 

[iammacey]

Congrats on buying the car and getting out on-track. When you say fluids have been changed, did you get the radiator flushed? If not, I probably would. Just to ensure there isn't air in it and to help with what's already weak cooling.

I would also consider getting the transmission fluid changed as well, if that hasn't been done.

If your brake pads are not new, or close to new, I would watch them throughout your sessions. As the pads go below 50%, the heat generated and retained/transferred to the rotors gets worse.

If you don't have one, get a good tire pressure gauge. Run a few laps in your session, pit, and check pressures. As has been said, you want to get your tire pressure around 32ish PSI hot and it takes time to work that out. Pressures go up more than you think they would after a few laps and it's important to monitor them. And then remember to go slow on our outlaps to get pressures back up after they cool.

If the track is hard on tires, or a specific tire, keep an eye on that corner between sessions. I run a track that's hard on right fronts and without camber you can destroy the outside shoulder in a day.

Have a great time and enjoy the experience. It will no doubt lead to more!

 

[the duke]

If it was tracked or wrecked in its first life I’d pull the brake rotors off and check for cracks in the hubs front and rear.