calling any/all forum members with 225/45s on Dekagrams

[M-Sport fan]

I need to know just how much room there is between the front struts (or coil overs if you have them) and the widest part of whatever brand tire you are using, whether still at factory ride height OR lowered.

I ask because I can actually set/request the offset that I want from Braid if I decide to go with their Full Race A wheels in 16x8.

Since I do not like the low ET number, extreme poke, or 'hella flush' look most others on here do, I wanted to get a 42-45ET offset, but I am worried that with the very tall (24.0" O.D.), and wide tread width (8.0") Yoko A052s I plan to use on them, they will rub big time.

I really do not want to be limited to a shorter sidewall, super narrow tread width, scant choices, 215/45-16 tire, also why I ask.

Thanks in advance.

 

[JDG]

Give me a week, been meaning to throw my auto-x setup on the car since the only time I drive in the current situation is for fun. I’ll take some measurements when I do. Shoot me a PM with your cell.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AZSP33D]

I have R888R 225/45R16 tires on 16X8 ET35 Dekagrams. The sidewalls are fairly stiff, and the tire's aren't overly wide, about 8" tread width and 8.75" overall width mounted on these wheels... the wheels are very close to this width overall width but do not touch when set on the ground flat. Let me ramble on to give you a little more information.

I have had these on both of my cars, one with stock suspension and the other with MeisterR GT-1 and rear camber shims. In summary they fit both ways with a little work and here's the "rub"...

Stock ride height stock suspension it's about 10 mm on the inside between front tires/wheels and struts... had little bit less with the MeisterR because I loaded the OEM bolts to max neg camber. I can take a bic pen and move it between the strut and the tires/wheels with some additional clearance.

Rear it's not a factor on the inboard side with this setup, but the rear fender lip area is of course... if you remove the springs and jack up the axle beam, it starts to rub the fenders as soon as it starts to tuck under. Gentle rolling is probably enough with reasonable ride height as cornering load provides more fender space (rear axle bushing deflection plus tire deflection plus wheel camber change)... regular bumps could cause rubs though.

Ride height --- eventually most tires will rub something sooner or later. Stock ride height means when cornering hard, tires will deflect slightly away from the fenders wen compressed, and the fronts have a little bit of camber gain to help out. On the stock suspension, they look great, and generally no rubbing... but if you hit a big bump or during hard cornering, there may be a touch.

Lower than stock ride height requires more negative camber. In the front, this needs to be done with camber plates not crash bolts as the offset strut bolts will move the tires closer to the struts, and cornering deflection may cause rubbing if it's too close. You can adjust the play in the OEM bolts to easily avoid any rub on the inside. Then max out the play in the top to get a little bit of negative camber.


I would estimate 30-37 ET could work in the front, and 35-45 ET in the rear for custom wheels... the rear fender needs to be rolled to totally avoid rub/contact at stock ride height especially if you add a couple of fat guys in the back seat. With lowered about an inch, rear you need some negative camber and trimming of the liner... EDIT- first picture is the rear jacked up without springs to determine how the wheel/tire fits, way up into the wheel well on both sides... second is on the ground with a fairly low ride height (not as low as it looks) and -2.7 camber and rolled

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^THANKS!

This might just inspire me to wait for the Panda Motorworks developed, gravel rally spec, Silver/Neomax coil overs since they both have camber plates on the front, and can go HIGHER THAN factory ride height if needed <-they will be the ONLY affordable/reasonably priced coil over setup able to do this so far, for these cars.

As far as ET is concerned, I want to go to a higher NUMERIC ET, which means less 'poke', not a lower one, which translates to more 'poke'.

 

[The Cuzi]

^^^THANKS!

This might just inspire me to wait for the Panda Motorworks developed, gravel rally spec, Silver/Neomax coil overs since they both have camber plates on the front, and can go HIGHER THAN factory ride height if needed <-they will be the ONLY affordable/reasonably priced coil over setup able to do this so far, for these cars.

As far as ET is concerned, I want to go to a higher NUMBER ET, which means less 'poke', not a lower one, which translates to more 'poke'.

This set, https://www.pandamotorworks.com/col...ver-s-neomax-coilover-kit-ford-fiesta-st-2014, or another?

 

[M-Sport fan]

This set, https://www.pandamotorworks.com/col...ver-s-neomax-coilover-kit-ford-fiesta-st-2014, or another?

It's based on those, but with much more threading on the bodies, and valving/travel set to handle MUCH longer springs than those, and much harsher high frequency impacts than those, or any of the other current affordable (i.e.; NOT the M-Sport/Reiger R2s for almost $10K, etc.) coil over setups for this car.

 

[The Cuzi]

It's based on those, but with much more threading on the bodies, and valving/travel set to handle MUCH longer springs than those, and much harsher high frequency impacts than those, or any of the other current affordable (i.e.; NOT the M-Sport/Reiger R2s for almost $10K, etc.) coil over setups for this car.

Man, once that is released I'd be interested.