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Clutch Replacement Questions

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Location
Fort Worth, TX, USA
#1
Hey everybody! Im having to replace my clutch and i had a few shops quote me on cost and labor alone was 1000$. So I'm taking matters into my own hands and me and my buddy are going to do it. I have a few questions and concerns regarding the installation/replacement and figured if i could get these questions answered it would be here. I am deciding to go with a Spec Stage 2 clutch which leads me to my first question. Is this clutch any good? Also i have searched for detailed videos on how to replace the clutch but can't find much so if someone could help by pointing me in the right direction that would be great! Also while I have the Trans out i would like to do some preventative maintenance like slave cylinder and stuff like that. so what are some components the i can replace? Also for clutch fluid I've heard either motul GEAR 300 or Multi DCTF so what is recommended? Any advice or answers to the questions would be much appreciated. Thank You!
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#2
Hey everybody! Im having to replace my clutch and i had a few shops quote me on cost and labor alone was 1000$. So I'm taking matters into my own hands and me and my buddy are going to do it. I have a few questions and concerns regarding the installation/replacement and figured if i could get these questions answered it would be here. I am deciding to go with a Spec Stage 2 clutch which leads me to my first question. Is this clutch any good? Also i have searched for detailed videos on how to replace the clutch but can't find much so if someone could help by pointing me in the right direction that would be great! Also while I have the Trans out i would like to do some preventative maintenance like slave cylinder and stuff like that. so what are some components the i can replace? Also for clutch fluid I've heard either motul GEAR 300 or Multi DCTF so what is recommended? Any advice or answers to the questions would be much appreciated. Thank You!
What Turbsky are you running? Ron a Whoosh quit carrying them I do believe. I'd go with a ST200 clutch with a new flywheel or RST from Ron. Fluid wise....those are good. Motul will be better than the DCT....But Ravenol-75w80 is my choice. Good luck and replace the slave cylinder while your there also.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 


MagnetiseST

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#3
Buy a stock clutch. The spec stage 2 is dookie. If you desperately want to upgrade get an ST200 clutch, if you are big turbo then you should go with a Competition Clutch kit. Be sure to pair your clutch with the correct flywheel, unsprung clutch disc = dual mass flywheel, sprung clutch disc = lightweight flywheel. Absolutely be sure to replace the slave cylinder.

I gotta disagree with using anything other than the suggested DCTF fluid, we had nothing but problems when we used the Motul 75w80.
 


OP
Garrettrulz10
Messages
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Location
Fort Worth, TX, USA
Thread Starter #6
What Turbsky are you running? Ron a Whoosh quit carrying them I do believe. I'd go with a ST200 clutch with a new flywheel or RST from Ron. Fluid wise....those are good. Motul will be better than the DCT....But Ravenol-75w80 is my choice. Good luck and replace the slave cylinder while your there also.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
Im running stock turbo i am tuned by dizzy and i have to replace my clutch cause it is going out so i figured i would go with something that holds a little more power but I'm not pushing a whole lot over stock lol. ill look into an ST200. would you recommend changing the flywheel as well? i only have 43k miles but the past owner dogged the hell out of it and it was having problems when i bought it. Thank you for the advice tho my guy!
 


OP
Garrettrulz10
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Location
Fort Worth, TX, USA
Thread Starter #7
Buy a stock clutch. The spec stage 2 is dookie. If you desperately want to upgrade get an ST200 clutch, if you are big turbo then you should go with a Competition Clutch kit. Be sure to pair your clutch with the correct flywheel, unsprung clutch disc = dual mass flywheel, sprung clutch disc = lightweight flywheel. Absolutely be sure to replace the slave cylinder.

I gotta disagree with using anything other than the suggested DCTF fluid, we had nothing but problems when we used the Motul 75w80.
Thanks for the advice! yeah i don't really need an upgraded clutch just figured since i was swapping clutches might as well go for an upgraded one. so after seeing this and other comments i think ill go OEM clutch and flywheel. Thanks again!
 


OP
Garrettrulz10
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Location
Fort Worth, TX, USA
Thread Starter #8
OEM clutch. The best manual transmission fluid not "clutch fluid" is Ravenol-75w80.

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Yeah lol i meant manual trans fluid haha. but yeah i think i will go OEM and Ravenol cause thats what i have recently heard a lot about. thanks for the advice!
 


anticon

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Sherwood
#9
I am wondering if the slave cylinder is something you definitely want to replace or is optional. I have heard these tend to fail, so it seems like it would be better to just do it. I just wanted to see how the community felt who has torn into the transmission. I have a 2017 with 20k miles and I will be installing an LSD soon, and I am planning on keeping the stock clutch and flywheel, mainly to save on costs, and I don't expect them to be bad. So anywhere I can save is good, but not at the expense of tearing back into it again in a short amount of time, at least not until the stock clutch is gone. I do plan on also installing a whoosh hybrid with E30 tune soon.
 


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Metro Detroit
#10
There is a lot of labor involved in replacing the clutch so trying to keep the original slave cylinder is in effect saving a dollar to spend 500 dollars. NOT a wise move at all.

Pertaining to the Flywheel question you already have your answer, the previous owner "dogged the clutch". So yeah, GET A NEW FLYWHEEL. Fact is you want to replace every component that wears. While the cost may seem high with that approach just compare it to the cost to replace one of these parts when it fails. I'll also second the advice to go with the OEM equipment, too much real experience with the high HP Speed parts, they provide better grip but usually only last 15,000 to 20,000 miles. On a mild tune the stock clutch will out last any aftermarket clutch by a factor of at least 3 and usually 8-10. Yeah, any clutch will wear out quickly if you continually thrash it.
 


Dpro

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#11
On a stock car with a tune a stock clutch is fine. Ford did upgrade the clutch for the ST200 so if you really feel the need then ya get an ST200. If you have gone larger turbo then you can start thinking about options. Though some claim they have run the stock clutch on larger Turbo‘s like my 280 with hp in the range of 370 . The question is for how long? Sure it can be done but longevity is drastically shortened when pumping a lot of TQ and HP through the stock setup. I know as I am experiencing it at higher loads.

High HP and TQ requires higher clamping and load capabilities its just a fact.
It‘s all a question of the proper product for the proper application. Which is how to many people get caught up in the I am goin get a upgraded clutch when they are not actually adding a ton more HP and TQ output through it. Then its a waste of time and money..

Also anyone doing an LSD or clutch might consider doing the other as well because though you think you will be saving money even when doing the job completely yourself you actually are not. As you have to do 3/4 of the work to do the clutch as you do to do the diff. So effectively you drop your trans once kill both projects and most likely will never have to drop the the trans ever again. Whereas doing the diff without the clutch could all but insure a good chance of dropping the trans again to do a clutch down the road if you plan on keeping your car long term.

Time is money no unless you have tons to waste. Their could be more important things to be doing than pulling your trans twice. Work smart..
 


anticon

Active member
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#12
On a stock car with a tune a stock clutch is fine. Ford did upgrade the clutch for the ST200 so if you really feel the need then ya get an ST200. If you have gone larger turbo then you can start thinking about options. Though some claim they have run the stock clutch on larger Turbo‘s like my 280 with hp in the range of 370 . The question is for how long? Sure it can be done but longevity is drastically shortened when pumping a lot of TQ and HP through the stock setup. I know as I am experiencing it at higher loads.

High HP and TQ requires higher clamping and load capabilities its just a fact.
It‘s all a question of the proper product for the proper application. Which is how to many people get caught up in the I am goin get a upgraded clutch when they are not actually adding a ton more HP and TQ output through it. Then its a waste of time and money..

Also anyone doing an LSD or clutch might consider doing the other as well because though you think you will be saving money even when doing the job completely yourself you actually are not. As you have to do 3/4 of the work to do the clutch as you do to do the diff. So effectively you drop your trans once kill both projects and most likely will never have to drop the the trans ever again. Whereas doing the diff without the clutch could all but insure a good chance of dropping the trans again to do a clutch down the road if you plan on keeping your car long term.

Time is money no unless you have tons to waste. Their could be more important things to be doing than pulling your trans twice. Work smart..
I tend to agree that it makes sense to do it all now, and what I expected to hear. BUT, with only 20k miles on the stock setup in 4 years, it seems a little early to replace regardless. Especially if I can expect to get another 20k+ out of it. At my current mileage rate this could be 4 years from now. I'll hopefully have another 4 years before I regret my decision.
 


Dpro

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#13
I tend to agree that it makes sense to do it all now, and what I expected to hear. BUT, with only 20k miles on the stock setup in 4 years, it seems a little early to replace regardless. Especially if I can expect to get another 20k+ out of it. At my current mileage rate this could be 4 years from now. I'll hopefully have another 4 years before I regret my decision.
Ya as long as you stay stock on your engine setup and don’t upgrade the turbo you should be fine. Though for my situation I will be doing my clutch at the same time I do the LSD as I am already on a S280.
 


Ford ST

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#14
A clutch kit is cheap last time I looked it was like under $100 not including shipping not sure how much it is now.
The OEM flywheel is not only expensive it is hard to get. The reality is it may not be available when you do your clutch job. I personally believe people are going to have to learn to reuse the flywheel unless it is damaged.
If the flywheel is not damaged don't worry about it. If it is go ahead and spend about $400 and wait for it to come.



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Last edited:

anticon

Active member
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#15
A clutch kit is cheap last time I looked it was like under $100 not including shipping not sure how much it is now.
The OEM flywheel is not only expensive it is hard to get. The reality is it may not be available when you do your clutch job. I personally believe people are going to have to learn to reuse the flywheel unless it is damaged.
If the flywheel is not damaged don't worry about it. If it is go ahead and spend about $400 and wait for it to come.



Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
Last I heard on flywheels a week or so ago from a local Ford tech. "C1BZ-6477-C. Is on backorder until 7-30-21. New retail price is $736."
 


Ford ST

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#16
Last I heard on flywheels a week or so ago from a local Ford tech. "C1BZ-6477-C. Is on backorder until 7-30-21. New retail price is $736."
That may be the retail price but you can get it from the online Ford dealers for under $400. With shipping it's going to be $400. You can get a OEM clutch kit with shipping for under $150.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 




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