DIY Noob Needs New Brake Rotors & Pads

[Rapataq]

Hey all,

I need to get new brake pads and rotors for my 2015 Fista ST and am overwhelmed at the volume of info / discussion on this topic. Seems like there is a ton of variance and no consensus on which pads or rotors are best. I don't track the car, it's just a fun daily driver here in southern california. Not looking for anything super top end, I prefer best bang for my buck kind of stuff. Just bought new tires, Michelin pilot sports on ebay.

Since I'm stuck at home anyway for Covid I figured I'll do the work myself. If anyone can point me toward a quality / cost effective option it would be well appreciated. Also, is there any safety concern in swapping all the pads and all the rotors at once? Any help or tips are welcome!

 

[CSM]

For fun daily driver, I like going with the OEM spec rotors/pads. That's what I use right now and enjoy them.

Use this video for tips /install instructions

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ5Q6-Ee0UQ


No safety concern at swapping all the pads/rotors at same time! I'd also recommend flushing with fresh fluid too and bleeding the brakes

 

[JDG]

Do you like the initial bit of the OEM pads? Does the brake dust not bother you? If you answered yes to both questions, stick with OEM pads (Motorcraft BRF1444 Front, Motorcraft BRF1494 Rear). Plenty of folks run them for track use with great success. They are an excellent pad.

If you don't like the bite, the Hawk HPS 5.0 is a great option as well.

I am a fan of the Stoptech slotted rotors, they have been working well for ~35K miles for me.

 

[CSM]

Does the brake dust not bother you?

Picked up some of this recently https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-C5-...rds=ceramic+coat+wheels&qid=1586821398&sr=8-5
Ceramic Coating for your wheels. Next time I detail my car I am going to apply it to both sets of wheels. Should make the brakedust a piece of cake to remove

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Here comes the next question....Do you Hoon your car or autocross? If not go with Stock setup from RockAuto with the pads JDG is suggesting.

Here is a link
for pads

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...dohc,3308782,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

Links for rotors

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ged+dohc,3308782,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

But if you wanna get into some fancier stuff.... Here is the Performance stuff

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/ford-fiesta-st-suspension?page=2

In this area you do get what you pay for ..... pay now happy later!

I have had Powerslot cryoed slotted rotors and Carbotech 1521 pads front and back. Now I'm onto EBC Slotted rotors and Yellow EBCs all the way around with the SVT Focus brackets and rotors in the back. So I will see where this takes me. Good luck!

 

[CarGuy]

I'd stay with stock proven parts.

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[the duke]

I'd stay with stock proven parts.

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Be honest with your goals. If you just drive around and even autocross stock hardware is fine. If you want, some cheap cry-treated blanks and mild pads are about the extent I would recommend from your post.

They're brakes. They're consumables. Even at the track the stock hardware is pretty decent with good brake fluid (A must at the track!)

 

[Ford ST]

I would stick with OEM pads the ones for summer tires. So don't buy the ones that say comfort, or the ones that say all season.
Any mid-grade brake rotor will be just fine. Just don't buy bottom of the barrel.

Also with RockAuto just Google discount code and you can get 5% off. Copy and paste it and put it in the how did You hear about us section.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[PunkST]

One thing you'll want, that i havent seen anyone reccomend yet, is the tool to twist the rear pistons back down. They auto adjust for the parking brake. So they require a clockwise turn while pushing to re set them. Make sure you take the res. Cover off before doing pushing the pistons back in. Makes life easier.

 

[AZSP33D]

Yes, OEM parts or equivalents, later model OEM pads, and lube the floating pins, clean calipers with soapy water and dry, and open bleeds to compress piston. Bleed brakes once finished for fresh fluid.

 

[Kawaii AF]

stick with stock parts. if youre not comfortable doing brakes on your own or have someone who can shadow you while you do them, please bring it to a shop. brakes arent something to mess with if youre not sure of yourself.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Then god said let there be DIYs and YouTube Videos!

 

[XR650R]

stick with stock parts. if youre not comfortable doing brakes on your own or have someone who can shadow you while you do them, please bring it to a shop. brakes arent something to mess with if youre not sure of yourself.

When it was time to do the brakes on my motorcycle, I knew that it would cost me hundreds of dollars to have a shop do it.

I bought the parts and a bleeder. Less than 150 for all of it. Bought braided brake lines, too, but only the front line fit. I also changed the fluid for both brakes. Probably the first time it'd ever been done.

The brakes are better than ever. You can do it yourself. Watch the above video.

Just check your work. Drive it slowly, and make sure it feels normal. Go a little faster, and check it again. If it feels mushy, bleed it some more. It ain't rocket science.

 

[Snrub]

For general brakes, you don't need anything fancy. I've had poor luck with cheap rotors rusting away due to winter conditions where I live, but I don't think that's an issue for you. I'd tend to avoid the cheapest stuff like Wagner/Monroe for both pads and rotors. You don't need slotted/drilled rotors. I've had decent luck with Centric/Raybestos/Napa stuff. For you, the pads probably matter more than the rotors. Maybe stick with motorcraft, or a better brand performance brand.

You also definitely want new fluid for your bleed and and periodic replacement is good practice. Get DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid, avoid DOT 5 regular.

Brake cleaner spray is your friend for cleaning rotors and the spots where the pads slide in the calipers.

 

[Rhinoserious]

I'd tend to avoid the cheapest stuff like Wagner/Monroe for both pads and rotors.

Hmm, thats unforunate. I just bought a FiST recently and the rear brakes needed replacing, so i bought wagners since this is my first brake job ever and I need to learn. Haven't installed them yet, but probably going to anyway just because I've already purchased them.

 

[rallytaff]

My stock rotors were recently replaced after 92,000 miles. The dealer re-installed the stock pads when the bearings were replaced under warranty. Now back to all stock brakes.