EBC Complete Front Brakes and Rear brakes with SVT Brackets DIY

[TyphoonFiST]

This is a DIY on Front and Rear brake replacement with SVT caliper brackets and larger rotors.

Tools needed

*Extended 3/8 ratchet with 13mm and 15mm short sockets and 1/4 ratchet with 13mm sockets and 15mm sockets to make things easier when in tight confines.

*Small locking pliers
*Impact Gun if possible in 1/2
* Impact sockets for lug nut removal
* medium size pry bar
*Rubber gloves
*Impact gloves if you wanna get fancy
*Torque stick or Torque wrench
*Scoot stool
*High temp ceramic Brake grease
*Brake cleaner
*Antiseize
*2 Jack stands
* Hydraulic jack
*Work light if possible
*Wire brush

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Front Brakes

Jack up vehicle at approved jacking points and install the 2 Jack's stands at the pinch welds on each side of the FiST.

Remove the Front wheels by removing the four lug nuts.

Reveal the Front rotors...calipers & brackets and pads.

The Caliper pin Bolts are 13mm and the bracket bolts are a 15mm. Remove them all. I use the small needle nose locking pliers to hold the caliper pin from moving with the bolt when removing and installing.Hang the caliper out of the way and try to Avoid letting it hang by the Hose to avoid an unneeded stress. Also I remove the brake fluid cap as I am just going to push the pistons back in so this will alleviate any back pressure.

Remove the caliper bracket from the Knuckle and reveal the rotor. It will now be loose and can be pulled off the Hub. I use a minimal amount of antiseize on the hub where it meets with the Rotors. And this gives you an opportunity to clean the Brackets and hub from Rust and debris with a wire brush! Also I replaced the caliper bracket pad retaining clips as my OEA were getting alittle Ratty.

Now for the Fun stuff! Grab you fancy new Rotors and pads you got From Ron @whoosh! The rear Rotors I got from Summit...But maybe Ron will start Carrying them for those who do the Mod!

Time for assembly.....I use Silaramic brake grease to grease the pins that go into the brackets. I clean the old grease off the pins with brake cleaner and let them dry then grease them up. Just a small dab will do and the speed it all over the pins. This also gives you an chance to inspect the pin boots. If they are torn or brittle time to replace! Use a caliper piston compressor tool to push the Caliper pistons in their bores. Should be little to no resistance as you push them back into the caliper. There is no incorrect way to install the pads also as they both have backing plates that are the same. The rotors must be on the Hubs in order to install the brackets and then the calipers. I also utilize blue thread locker and the caliper pin bolts and the Bracket to knuckle bolts to prevent backing out over time. The Rotors are labeled left and right side BTW. Install the wheel and torque the lugs nuts to 100 ft lbs. NO ANTISEIZE on the studs either. Now its time to go do the passengerside in the same order!

Time to go and do the Rear SVT Focus Bracket and Rear rotor Mod! And have your Doggo wonder what is going on and also criticize you for not playing with him!

Get the Rear end up in the Air by using the Jack on the middle of the rear axle and install the Jack's into position on each side of the vehicle on the pinch welds.

The rear Caliper pin bolts and bracket bolts are both a 13mm. Remove them and hang the caliper out of the way.

The Rear caliper are not push in style like the front. Remember that Kit I told you about in the beginning. This is used also to Turn the pistons back into their homes. They will need to be turned all the way in for them the be reinstalled with out any hassle with the new pads. Here it is again just in case. You can rent these from just about any parts store now for a deposit. But this is my kit I purchased off Amazon for like $35.I found the proper adapter and wound the piston back into its Bore.

Remove the rotor and pads from the brackets. Grab your slightly used Rear SVT brackets and lube the pins and install new boots for the pins.Clean the hub up with a wire brush.Then use some antiseize on the hub. Install the pads into the bracket. There is no hardware for the rear caliper either....they just slide right in. The caliper pistons need to be lined up with the with alignment pin on the brake pads so it doesn't end up like another members brake job and drag and destroy the new pad and rotor. It's hard to see but the alignment pin on the brake pad goes into the caliper piston in the one of the four slots of the piston. These rotors are the same as the front and labeledLeft and Right.

Once this has all been correctly lined up. Its ready to go all back together and move onto the other side and repeat the process. Then follow EBCs bed in process even though it comes with a Pad bedding coating on the pads. It still wants you to drive like a sane person for 200 miles and then do Qty 5 60mph to 20mph Hard stops making sure not to completely stop the vehicle as you do these maneuvers on a quiet side road out of the way of Traffic. Now you can drive like a complete Loon knowing you can stop rather nicely!

Now it's time to sit back and drink a beer...juice box or Pop to celebrate your new Rear SVT brake setup!

 

[PunkST]

Btw. Wrench size for the caliper pins is 15mm where you put the pliers. It has to be a thin one however. I lucked out on a cheap set being skinny enough.

Which ebc compund did you choose? Im planning a swap up to yellows up front. You might want to watch the paint on the side of the back brake pads. Mine was excessively thick and had to grind it down. To keep them from sticking.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Btw. Wrench size for the caliper pins is 15mm where you put the pliers. It has to be a thin one however. I lucked out on a cheap set being skinny enough.

Which ebc compund did you choose? Im planning a swap up to yellows up front. You might want to watch the paint on the side of the back brake pads. Mine was excessively thick and had to grind it down. To keep them from sticking.

Yellow* Had no issue with the powder coating/ paint. They all went together like a glove! Just make sure either front and rear that the piston in pushed all the way in to make fitment easier.

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[PunkST]

Thats my plan for fronts and advance auto rotors. Lol. Good that they fit well.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Is there a benefit to running a bracket from the Focus SVT?


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Yeap...you can now Run a bigger Rotor! Almost the same size as the Fronts*

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[TyphoonFiST]

Got about 24k out of the EBC Yellow fronts with about 20% left and ALOT of HIGH speed stopping. The Rears may be fine but ill look at them When I next take the wheels off...Ill bet there at about 50% remaining as the fronts usually wear at half the rate of the Fronts. Same Rotors and pads all the way around again also! Great setup for the street I might add!

 

[esp_martin]

@TyphoonFiST planning on this upgrade sometime next month or early May when i upgrade the brake fluid and brake lines. thanks for all this documentation.

edit: can anyone confirm if the part is Motorcraft BRBCR-24? that's all i could find but i'm not sure if that is what was originally on the SVT or if that is what *could* fit that vehicle but OEM was a different part.

 

[webbrus]

One option is that Pumaspeed in the UK is offering caliper carriers at https://pumaspeed.co.uk/showdetails.jsp?productID=20541&manufacturerID=1&makeID=1&modID=326

When I put it in the cart it was around $180 USD but at least they come in red if you have the optional red calipers.

 

[akiraproject24]

Did you use the same glide pins and caliper/bracket bolts from the factory fiesta brakes? It appears that way...just trying to confirm before I go to swap

 

[M-Sport fan]

New slider pins (and boots) are dirt cheap on Rock Auto, even though yes, they r*pe you on the shipping from the always inevitably (on purpose??) different warehouses where they are located for front & rear pins/boots.

I got everything new for my full brake job, except for new calipers/brackets, and after watching some 'proper way to do this' online videos where they take ALL of the rust/crud off of the hub face, and from around the lug stud bases, and caliper brackets (<-via bead blasting) where the pad ears contact (and knowing that NO shop/dealership is ever going to sweat those details, for any, even exorbitant extra labor charge, and since I cannot do this myself at my present location), I am thinking that clean/fresh remanufactured calipers is not such a bad idea after all.