Fiesta ST Intake Thread

MKVIIST

Administrator
Staff member
#1
Wanted to dedicate this thread to Intake manufactures for the Fiesta ST. I'll be updating this thread with information as they are available.

If anyone has information, please feel free to add to this thread.

I'll be updating this thread as more information are posted.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fiesta ST Cobb Intake
Price: $325.00




cp-e Ram Air Intake
Price: $399.00





Fiesta ST K&N Drop In Filter (33-2955)
Price: $35




Fiesta ST Mountune Intake
Price: $299




Fiesta ST FSWerks Intake
Price: $299

[video=youtube;D6lRyxsnaOs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6lRyxsnaOs[/video]



Fiesta ST AS Performance Intake
Price: $199.95 or $326.80

[video=youtube;gWyTYfHnVh4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWyTYfHnVh4[/video]



Fiesta ST EcoBoost Turbo DAIS (Direct Air Induction System) Intake
Price: $199.95 or $326.80

[video=youtube;Iaen8IiOOKQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iaen8IiOOKQ[/video]


Fiesta ST Injen Intake
Price: $330.00



Fiesta ST K&N Intake (63-2587)
Price: $233.99



Fiesta ST AEM Intake (63-2587)
Price: $249.99

 

Spixelz

Senior Member
#2
Anyone know if the AEM CAI for the 2012 or 13 will fit the ST?
 

MKVIIST

Administrator
Staff member
#3
The regular Fiestas have a different intake, but there will be lots of parts coming.
 

Spixelz

Senior Member
#4
The regular Fiestas have a different intake, but there will be lots of parts coming.
Thats a bummer. I've had mine for less then 24hrs and already want to mod it....I think I might have a issue lol
 

MKVIIST

Administrator
Staff member
#5
Thats a bummer. I've had mine for less then 24hrs and already want to mod it....I think I might have a issue lol
lol better save the money, I have a feeling after SEMA next month those parts are going to come fast.

You can always start by tinting, debadging and new wheels.[lovest]
 
#7
#9
it's ok, but i like the sound of the engine under load condition vs no load rev.
 
#11
Before modifying the intake system by replacing the air box and/or OEM filter you should have check out the link below.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

good info, but now here is my question. how long do i drive before 9.8g of dirt is pulled by my filter? and is there a way of testing the dirt concentrations in the air where i drive? and then doing a calculation of how many 1000s of miles am i driving to get that 9.8g. to me what i get from this is that if you want a high flow K&N type air filter be prepared to clean it more often, and just stay vigilant about it. Here is my tip, If you wash your car, wash your filter.

Like my old MX3, if i put gas in it i put oil in it lol [drinking]
 

Sekred

Senior Member
#12
good info, but now here is my question. how long do i drive before 9.8g of dirt is pulled by my filter? and is there a way of testing the dirt concentrations in the air where i drive? and then doing a calculation of how many 1000s of miles am i driving to get that 9.8g. to me what i get from this is that if you want a high flow K&N type air filter be prepared to clean it more often, and just stay vigilant about it. Here is my tip, If you wash your car, wash your filter.

Like my old MX3, if i put gas in it i put oil in it lol [drinking]
No idea, I can't answer your question.
The ISO 5011 is simply a controlled test comparing apples with apples in a controlled environment.
The difference between the worse flowing filter and the best flowing filter was a difference in vacuum of 1.69 inches of water (IN H20)
The vacuum a Internal combustion engine produces is measured in, inches of Mercury (IN HG) and maximum vacuum is around 17-21 IN HG at idle rising to around 25 IN HG when driving down a hill with the throttle closed. 1 inch of mercury equals 13.59 IN H2O so 21 IN HG equals 285.39 IN H2O.
I doubt you would be able to notice any performance difference between the best and worst flowing filters in that test.
Another concern for me is that Turbochargers don't cope with dust very well, even in tiny quantities. The Aluminium alloy compressor/impeller wheels suffer from tip and edge wear because they are spinning upwards of 200,000 rpm and any dust particles hit the wheel at very high speeds.
I have seen this compressor wheel tip and edge wear using a wax cotton type filter . The filter was serviced every 5000kms and never allowed to dry-out or choke with dust.

Cheers
Sekred
 
#14
No idea, I can't answer your question.
The ISO 5011 is simply a controlled test comparing apples with apples in a controlled environment.
The difference between the worse flowing filter and the best flowing filter was a difference in vacuum of 1.69 inches of water (IN H20)
The vacuum a Internal combustion engine produces is measured in, inches of Mercury (IN HG) and maximum vacuum is around 17-21 IN HG at idle rising to around 25 IN HG when driving down a hill with the throttle closed. 1 inch of mercury equals 13.59 IN H2O so 21 IN HG equals 285.39 IN H2O.
I doubt you would be able to notice any performance difference between the best and worst flowing filters in that test.
Another concern for me is that Turbochargers don't cope with dust very well, even in tiny quantities. The Aluminium alloy compressor/impeller wheels suffer from tip and edge wear because they are spinning upwards of 200,000 rpm and any dust particles hit the wheel at very high speeds.
I have seen this compressor wheel tip and edge wear using a wax cotton type filter . The filter was serviced every 5000kms and never allowed to dry-out or choke with dust.

Cheers
Sekred

Yea its hard to do real world test, the amount of dust in the air is different by the minute im sure. and to ingest 9.8g of dirt every minute... i might have an idea. hold on
 
#15
Yea its hard to do real world test, the amount of dust in the air is different by the minute im sure. and to ingest 9.8g of dirt every minute... i might have an idea. hold on
Ok so this is what ive come up with.


from http://cars.about.com/od/productreviews/fr/ag_knfilter.htm

avg of 15000miles per filter as per GM. k&n recomends based on the site above to be 50000miles

9.8gr per min is our ASO 5011 test

k&n handeled 221g and passed 7g in 24 min, that is fail line.

15000miles / 50mph avg = 300Hr of use time.

300Hr x 60min = 18000min

9.8g / 18000min to fail = 0.000544444444g per minute.

Now lets pretend K&N does their homework based on the findings of http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
and still says "yes 50000 miles is what it will last before it needs to be replaced/cleaned"

we can now see

50000Miles / 50mph avg = 1000Hr of use

1000HR x 60min = 60000min

now if 9.8g caused it to fail at 24 min

then 9.8g / 60000min = 0.000163333333g per min will cause same filter to fail at 60000min or 50000miles.

Now here is a question. Is it possible to even see 0.000163333333g of dust disolved into however many cubic/ft of air per minute a car is ingesting.
and better yet, what % of even that air is going to make physical contact with a critical part of the engine.
blades and other serfaces are a fraction of the volume covered by air on its way through the engine

All i get from the info on the web page stated second is that if you run a high flow filter clean it more often and enjoy the extra power. [rockon] i haven't used my brain in a long time, i need a nap now,lol
 
#16

Sekred

Senior Member
#17
Taking numbers from the controlled ISO 5011 air filter test and trying to convert the into some kind of mileage figure is not accurate.
Quote from the ISO 5011 test
In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms.

Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons.

These are accurate numbers.

Dust wears engines, piston rings and cylinder bore. I have 30 plus years as a truck engine/ plant mechanic and have seen plenty of "dusted engines".

Dust also wears out turbo compressor wheels, they end up sand blasted and the edges erode away.

My experience, I used a wax/cotton pod filter on my 2 litre turbo Subaru. Inspection of the turbo at 25,000 kms showed noticeable compressor wheel wear. I binned the pod filter and will never run this type of filter again.

At the end of the day, its your car, your money and your called.

Cheers
Sekred
 
#18
I just took what the ASO 5011 test said and converted it to real world application. if K&N says hey 24 min of this test = 50000miles real world +/- for our type of filter. and AC say 60min test = ####. for their filter then run it.
personally i know bigger holes in the filter will let more dirt in. thats why i do it sooner than recommended. truth be told i mostly run stock filters, because im to cheap to buy aftermarket kits. lol

S. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons
L. this tells me that i should not believe K&N and clean at 50000 miles but maybe i should do it every 1:18 the time so 2777 miles or 3k is fine, where as the AC can go full claimed life. not that K&N sucks. they just over evaluated their life cycle.

S. Dust wears engines, piston rings and cylinder bore. I have 30 plus years as a truck engine/ plant mechanic and have seen plenty of "dusted engines".
L. i do not disagree. Most engines fail from neglect not 1 filter over another, its the lack of maintenance. i also work with turbines for the Air Force, and turbine engines dont have filters.
Before i was in the Air Force, i was a Heavy Duty Equipment Mechanic in the field, not in a plant. an i saw first hand the neglect that drivers do to their vehicles, its not their vehicle, so drive until it brakes.
and since most shops do not schedule enough regular maint. shit goes unnoticed until its too late. now in the AF we have a ton of regularly scheduled maint. so we can catch things sooner.

here is an option, buy a stock filter and drill holes in it. BOOM paper filter K&N airflow baby. problem solved.[rockon]

its like you said.
At the end of the day, its your car, your money and your call
 

Sekred

Senior Member
#19
No worry mate

Healthy debate is good.

I will end up modifying my intake, just not sure of what I will do.

Out of interest, my wife's 2011 Focus runs a paper pod filter in the air box housing. This is OEM standard. Maybe I could jam this in the ST,s engine bay somewhere, there is some room under the LH headlight [:)]
Cheers
Sekred
 
#20
No worry mate

Healthy debate is good.

I will end up modifying my intake, just not sure of what I will do.

Out of interest, my wife's 2011 Focus runs a paper pod filter in the air box housing. This is OEM standard. Maybe I could jam this in the ST,s engine bay somewhere, there is some room under the LH headlight [:)]
Cheers
Sekred
out of curiosity does this ASO 5011 test have a fail gauge, for instance why run the ac for 60 minutes and not all the filters the same then compare the differences?
is there a magic number that determines when they pull the plug on a test?

also my wife has an 2011 fiesta, bone stock as well.
i may try to do an intake but add a fine particle filter bag over it like my vacuum has.
unless they come with this now.
 


Top