Front axle/CV joint? clicking sound when turning

[Cerberus]

Hi guys,

My 2015 has about 60k miles and has started making a clicking sound at low speeds when I am turning right. I hear it coming from the left front side of my car. I also hear it when I approach my driveway hump when turning right.

Is this the CV joint failing and do I need to replace the axle shaft? How hard is the replacement for a novice weekend mechanic with decent tools? I searched for a DIY, but could not locate.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Jabbit]

View: https://youtu.be/QlSHF5y8ZaI

 

[Fiestig]

Is this the CV joint failing and do I need to replace the axle shaft?

Yes it is and yes you do need to replace. Use the video @Jabbit posted. Some good vids on their channel

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Definitely a CV axle issue.

 

[Cerberus]

Thanks guys!

Any idea how long it takes to R&R the driver's side axle for the average guy working solo with decent tools?

 

[Dialcaliper]

Thanks guys!

Any idea how long it takes to R&R the driver's side axle for the average guy working solo with decent tools?

Depends - it’s hard to find parts to repair a CV axle and has been that way since the late 90’s. You can get replacement boots if you find a torn one, but if it’s making noise, it’s probably past that point and the tripod bearings are shot. Replacement axles are so cheap these days you usually end up replacing the whole CV axle.

OEM are $150 for the passenger, $97 for the drivers side. Aftermarket at RockAuto can be had for $85-90. You’d be hard pressed to find a full replacement bearing set for that price if you can even locate one (neither dealer or aftermarket stock them, you’d have to find individual bearings).

https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2016-f...-gas/front-drive-axle--axle-shafts-and-joints

Make sure you have the right size socket for the axle nut, remove the staked divot with the screwdriver/punch and hammer, and preferably an impact gun to remove it (electric is fine), or else you’ll need to find a way to brace the hub from spinning and use a big honking breaker bar (I just looked it up and axle nut torque is apparently 188 ft-lbs so you'll also need a very large torquewrench and a brace) Get a long metal bar and drill two holes for two of the wheel studs, then brace it on the ground.

The axle nuts, strut bolts (if you separate the top), pinch bolts (if you separate the balljoint instead) and the bolts on the mid-shaft (if doing the passenger side) all should be replaced.

The service manual says you should remove the pinch bolts at the balljoint which makes it easier to get the driveshaft out and will preserve the alignment, but you'll need a balljoint separator, which can be had cheaply

If you don't have one, technically you can unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle instead, but it's more awkward trying to get the axle out. If you do that, make sharpie or paint pen marks around the bolts and across the strut where it interfaces with the steering knuckle so you can put it back in the correct place and not have to worry about realigning the car. There’s not enough play or adjustability to put camber out of spec, though it may change slightly - but a little shift in the strut attachment can throw off the toe-in. Realigning toe is not difficult, but it is extra work if you’re worried about time. Most of this info is probably in that video linked above.

You if the axle is all you’re doing, you can probably swap one out in a couple hours if you have all the right tools and replacement hardware.

 

[Cerberus]

Depends - it’s hard to find parts to repair a CV axle and has been that way since the late 90’s. You can get replacement boots if you find a torn one, but if it’s making noise, it’s probably past that point and the tripod bearings are shot. Replacement axles are so cheap these days you usually end up replacing the whole CV axle.

OEM are $150 for the passenger, $97 for the drivers side. Aftermarket at RockAuto can be had for $85-90. You’d be hard pressed to find a full replacement bearing set for that price if you can even locate one (neither dealer or aftermarket stock them, you’d have to find individual bearings).

https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2016-f...-gas/front-drive-axle--axle-shafts-and-joints

Make sure you have the right size socket for the axle nut, remove the staked divot with the screwdriver/punch and hammer, and preferably an impact gun to remove it (electric is fine), or else you’ll need to find a way to brace the hub from spinning and use a big honking breaker bar (I just looked it up and axle nut torque is apparently 188 ft-lbs so you'll also need a very large torquewrench and a brace) Get a long metal bar and drill two holes for two of the wheel studs, then brace it on the ground.

The axle nuts, strut bolts (if you separate the top), pinch bolts (if you separate the balljoint instead) and the bolts on the mid-shaft (if doing the passenger side) all should be replaced.

The service manual says you should remove the pinch bolts at the balljoint which makes it easier to get the driveshaft out and will preserve the alignment, but you'll need a balljoint separator, which can be had cheaply

If you don't have one, technically you can unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle instead, but it's more awkward trying to get the axle out. If you do that, make sharpie or paint pen marks around the bolts and across the strut where it interfaces with the steering knuckle so you can put it back in the correct place and not have to worry about realigning the car. There’s not enough play or adjustability to put camber out of spec, though it may change slightly - but a little shift in the strut attachment can throw off the toe-in. Realigning toe is not difficult, but it is extra work if you’re worried about time. Most of this info is probably in that video linked above.

You if the axle is all you’re doing, you can probably swap one out in a couple hours if you have all the right tools and replacement hardware.

Big thanks for the detailed instructions!

I will definitely go the route of replacing the entire axle assembly racially considering the price. Just doing my homework to determine the tools needed and the easiest route to make sure I can successfully replace over a weekend since the FiST is my daily driver.

 

[akiraproject24]

Big thanks for the detailed instructions!

I will definitely go the route of replacing the entire axle assembly racially considering the price. Just doing my homework to determine the tools needed and the easiest route to make sure I can successfully replace over a weekend since the FiST is my daily driver.

Sharing what I went through doing a cv axle for the first time (all be it japanese make and not ford)
Waiting for a passenger driveshaft for my honda and will be replacing myself. I needed a 36mm socket for the axel spline nut. Not sure on the Fiesta but you may need to grab the socket. Also, the spline nut (on the honda) gets staked onto the shaft so a replacement nut is nice to have on hand to freshly stake but I have heard people do resuse them. Maybe some Moly 60 paste and or high temp urea grease for splines if you want to go the extra mile but again, I have read the service manual for the honda and have not for the FiST.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Sharing what I went through doing a cv axle for the first time (all be it japanese make and not ford)
Waiting for a passenger driveshaft for my honda and will be replacing myself. I needed a 36mm socket for the axel spline nut. Not sure on the Fiesta but you may need to grab the socket. Also, the spline nut (on the honda) gets staked onto the shaft so a replacement nut is nice to have on hand to freshly stake but I have heard people do resuse them. Maybe some Moly 60 paste and or high temp urea grease for splines if you want to go the extra mile but again, I have read the service manual for the honda and have not for the FiST.

I already had my wheel off when I was taking a break and saw this. It looks like it’s a 32mm socket on the axle nut, and it’s a tri-lobe locking kind, not staked. You might be able to reuse it, but given that you usually don’t take axles on and off very often, it’s better to just replace the nut.

 

[Cerberus]

New driver side axle assembly and new transmission fluid arrived and I plan to install this weekend.

I saw one of the comments above recommending a ball joint separator tool. Looking online to purchase one. Are these all very similar? Any recommendations of one that works well on the Fiesta suspension?

Thanks!

 

[4DGC]

My 2 cents is don't bother with the ball joint tool if you are talking about the pickle fork type. It is too easy to tear the boot or do other damage using these. A BFH applied in the right manner will free your ball joints quicker. Take this with a grain of salt however, I have done this on many vehicles but not a FiST specifically. Good luck.

 

[Dialcaliper]

New driver side axle assembly and new transmission fluid arrived and I plan to install this weekend.

I saw one of the comments above recommending a ball joint separator tool. Looking online to purchase one. Are these all very similar? Any recommendations of one that works well on the Fiesta suspension?

Thanks!

They’re definitely useful to have around, but most of them are good enough. As long as it’s not some sketchy knockoff from Amazon, you’ll be fine.

Big hammer or deadblow on a wood block can work, but you risk screwing up your alignment (more critical with the tie rod joint), which kind of defeats the purpose of separating at the balljoint instead of the strut.

Also, it’s irritatingly difficult to get a hammer under the knuckle where the control arm balljoint is, even with a drift punch.

I’ve had good luck with the Harbor Freight screw type - they often work much better than the “pickle fork” style and don’t chew the boots up as much.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

I highly recommend safety glasses and keeping your hands and other body parts clear of under the balljoint when using it through. I just separated my steering outer tie rod joints a week or two ago, and when they let go, it sounded a bit like a gunshot and made enough shock that brake dust came flying off the rotor. If my hand had been underneath, I’d probably be nursing some broken fingers right now.

 

[Cerberus]

Thanks guys for your feedback!

I will make a trip to HF and get the screw type ball joint tool.

Another question, should I also replace the axle seal since I am replacing the axle or leave it alone? My car is a 2015 and is not currently leaking. Each time you do an internet search you read about other issues that could occur. LOL

Thanks again!