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Help .... battery terminals touched by ratchet and now car won’t start.

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11
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9
Location
Bellflower, CA, USA
#1
First , apologies if not in right area. 2014 fiesta st.

Battery had negative post disconnected but when reattached ( tightened ) , the ratchet handle swung and touched positive for a split second.
Now car won’t start when push start is pushed. Radio , dash , lights and everything else is working BUT button does nothing when pressed.

Is there a relay or fuses I can check or what else it could be ? Car was fine before that stupid slip.

Help please.
 


flbchbm

Active member
Premium Account
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Location
Sterling, VA, USA
#4
First , apologies if not in right area. 2014 fiesta st.

Battery had negative post disconnected but when reattached ( tightened ) , the ratchet handle swung and touched positive for a split second.
Now car won’t start when push start is pushed. Radio , dash , lights and everything else is working BUT button does nothing when pressed.

Is there a relay or fuses I can check or what else it could be ? Car was fine before that stupid slip.

Help please.
View: https://youtu.be/ocEfFUO4h64

Edit: STOA day is done, plus electric karting with EKFIESTAST& guest, Mike Dege and azsp33d. tonight. Time for some shut eye

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 


Last edited:
Messages
421
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320
Location
San Antonio
#5
That would be the second thing I would check. The fuses and relays in that box. You could have burnt one out. I’ve done the same thing before, don’t feel bad. However mine started after
 


OP
Darkflamedesign
Messages
11
Likes
9
Location
Bellflower, CA, USA
Thread Starter #7
Ok ... checked fuses ( engine fuse box ) all good .... video mentioned the black relay , but not sure how to test. Also , the big fuse on battery is ok , not blown , I removed junction cover to look at other fuses there .... all good .

Looked at passenger fuse box behind glove box .... checked those fuses mentioned in video ... all good too. Looked at large grey ( ignition relay ) R1 , when I depressed start button I hear it clicking but still no start ( so not sure about whether good or bad. )

Bottom line , I am not sure where else to check. I am super angry that I have gotten so careless and let ratchet touch positive of battery , accidentally.

Help.
 


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haste

Senior Member
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450
Location
Eastern
#12
Disconnect the battery completely and hold the negative and positive battery cables together for 10 or so seconds to completely discharge the electrical system. Hook the battery back up and try again.

Who knows, I've seen crazier things happen...
 


Messages
250
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211
Location
Metro Detroit
#14
Your problem could be as simple as a bad connection at the terminals of the battery. Back when I was about 6 or 7 years old my Dad rescued a woman in the parking lot of the Acme Grocery who's car wouldn't start. Headlights would light, horn worked fine but it would not crank, all that could be heard was the click of the starter solenoid. Dad got his tool kit of of the trunk and removed both cables and and cleaned the posts with an external wire brush and then cleaned the cable ends with his pocket knife. The car started right up. BTW, time period was around 1962 and it was common sense to carry a small tool box of essentials in the trunk.

Point is that an issue with car batteries that dates back to the period when Electric Starters were fist introduced is still an issue today. Lead Acid battery's produce fumes that can be very acidic when it's humid so battery terminals will corrode. It's why GM moved the battery connection to the side of the battery back in the early 80's. GM moved the terminals a few inches further from the source of the acid fumes and also moved them below the top deck of the battery. As an owner of a 1985 Monte Carlo SS I can state with certainty that those side terminals actually reduce the corrosion at the terminals, in fact they come very lose to eliminating it. BTW, I expect that a Lithium Ion car battery would also eliminate corrosion at the terminals but when I attempted a google search on Lithium batteries for the FiST all I could find was 800 dollar batteries. Bit of a shame that, the Lithium battery would likly be much lighter than the current lead acid battery.
 


PunkST

1000 Post Club
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Menasha
#15
Check the anti theft fuse. Its a really small amperage and could have popped preventing the car from cranking ( which is exactly how its designed.)
 


flbchbm

Active member
Premium Account
Messages
792
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504
Location
Sterling, VA, USA
#16
Your problem could be as simple as a bad connection at the terminals of the battery. Back when I was about 6 or 7 years old my Dad rescued a woman in the parking lot of the Acme Grocery who's car wouldn't start. Headlights would light, horn worked fine but it would not crank, all that could be heard was the click of the starter solenoid. Dad got his tool kit of of the trunk and removed both cables and and cleaned the posts with an external wire brush and then cleaned the cable ends with his pocket knife. The car started right up. BTW, time period was around 1962 and it was common sense to carry a small tool box of essentials in the trunk.

Point is that an issue with car batteries that dates back to the period when Electric Starters were fist introduced is still an issue today. Lead Acid battery's produce fumes that can be very acidic when it's humid so battery terminals will corrode. It's why GM moved the battery connection to the side of the battery back in the early 80's. GM moved the terminals a few inches further from the source of the acid fumes and also moved them below the top deck of the battery. As an owner of a 1985 Monte Carlo SS I can state with certainty that those side terminals actually reduce the corrosion at the terminals, in fact they come very lose to eliminating it. BTW, I expect that a Lithium Ion car battery would also eliminate corrosion at the terminals but when I attempted a google search on Lithium batteries for the FiST all I could find was 800 dollar batteries. Bit of a shame that, the Lithium battery would likly be much lighter than the current lead acid battery.
Click-click. I remember it well. It was probably a ford. When I worked auto parts 79-81, Fords were known to require a solid battery connection and even more amperage than the others.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 


OP
Darkflamedesign
Messages
11
Likes
9
Location
Bellflower, CA, USA
Thread Starter #17
Thanks guys ... will pull terminals , brush clean them and see what happens .
Where is that anti theft fuse , is that the immobilizer thing I heard fiesta has installed. ?
And where would I look for it ?

I guess I could try jumping it too and see if that extra juice does it .
Hate to flatbed it to dealer for that stupid mistake I did.
 


Messages
143
Likes
77
Location
Vancouver
#19
If it's still the original battery in there, then imo most likely it's your battery is dead. Try charging it or jumping the car, it'll probably start, but you most likely need a new battery.
 


OP
Darkflamedesign
Messages
11
Likes
9
Location
Bellflower, CA, USA
Thread Starter #20
Welp , jumping it was a bust .
So thinking its some stupid relay that got toasted or similar.

Back to drawing board. ... need a drink 🍺
 




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