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HELP! RMM bolts stripped

Brezina542

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#1
Ok so i was working on installing an AWR RMM.
the two main bolts were stuck but easy enough to get loose with some wd-40.
now my problem is the the stud that holds the bracket, park number W716047-s442
now i can order a new one, even tho i wouldn't want too, the "overnight" shipping would still take 5 days, and cost at the lowest 40 bucks for a 12$ bolt

Now i stopped myself from get two carried away and let it soak in fluid for the night and put the rest back together.
im looking for ideas on how to extract this stud without causing two much damage
(to put it into perspective i was using a cheater bat on my 1/2 inch ratchet and honestly think it broke some ratchet teeth)
i could buy a slightly smaller breaker bar because mine doesn't fit under my car while only on jack stands

my main problem is the bolt is now slightly rounded off and sockets just started to slip off.
this stud just seems to be really seized and cant find a way to get at it.

any and all recommendations would be helpful
.
 


green_henry

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#2
Breaker bars are definitely the way to go. I almost always use a breaker bar to start a nut or bolt that's bigger than 10mm. You can probably get a loaner from AutoZone or equivalent. A 6-point socket shouldn't slip unless that bolt is in really bad shape; you may want to try vice-grip pliers if the corners have been rounded off.
 


Hypergram

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#6
Since you're struggling with traction on the socket, you could just grab some extra long pliers and twist like that. Hopefully that will give you enough torque and enough "squeeze" on the bolt.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#7
yes The rear most bolt, I used 6point sockets and it still just didn’t do it. Gonna try to use a bolt/nut extractor but don’t wanna break the bolt.
Use an 1/2 cordless impact and then an extractor I had to do it with mine. Then went to ford and got a new bolt. It is an inverted torx now instead of 6 point bolt head.


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Ford ST

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#8
In the future this will save you a lot of headache. Buy some snap-on or matco sockets they grip much better.

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OP
Brezina542

Brezina542

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Thread Starter #9
Use an 1/2 cordless impact and then an extractor I had to do it with mine. Then went to ford and got a new bolt. It is an inverted torx now instead of 6 point bolt head.


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That sounds like the route I’m going to take.
How long did it take for you to get the replacement bolt?
And do you have a part number?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#10
That sounds like the route I’m going to take.
How long did it take for you to get the replacement bolt?
And do you have a part number?
Had one is stock....common issue I was told!

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M-Sport fan

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#11
Ironically, I was just asking Ron (Whoosh) about any possible ARP replacement hardware for this location/app the other day (as far as he knows, it does not exist) since I am going to swap my CP-E RMM for a Vibra-Technics RMM, which I just received this morning.
 


OP
Brezina542

Brezina542

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Thread Starter #12
Update:

I went to harbor freight this morning, and picked up some bolt extractors on my way to work. I get the SAE set as I didn’t wanna take a chance of the bolt riding off even more with the 13mm. I

I also bought a 17” breaker bar as the one I have is to too big. This one is still tight under the car on just jack stands but it worked.

bolt came right off no problem and I ended up filing the bolt head so it wasn’t as rounded, and it torqued just fine to 48nm.

little work on the bolt saved me a lot of time. When I called my local ford dealership, they said it would take over 2 weeks to get. So I just went with it my way.

I index up also replacing the FMIC since I had it on me, and that was a pain in itself but no problems afterwords there.

Car is ready for the Thermal exhaust 154CFD50-2E87-44E2-B645-DFC57212E5CD.jpeg 154CFD50-2E87-44E2-B645-DFC57212E5CD.jpeg 154CFD50-2E87-44E2-B645-DFC57212E5CD.jpeg 154CFD50-2E87-44E2-B645-DFC57212E5CD.jpeg 2D9A757A-574D-45A6-8D0A-1F262372E830.jpeg AD8447A5-E510-430B-BDB3-A1040F35B68C.jpeg F1FB0160-19F1-45DA-9325-BCEA93B7D41E.jpeg A3E0D2B6-0825-49B4-809D-4891A3B252B4.jpeg
 


PunkST

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#13
Not a bad fix. Id have gone grade 8 fron the hardware store, lol.
 


OP
Brezina542

Brezina542

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Thread Starter #14
Not a bad fix. Id have gone grade 8 fron the hardware store, lol.
I would have, and actually did stop in ace to see it’ll they had anything similar but I was wrong about what bolt was stripped. It was the innermost one, that connects to the downipe bracket. See the picture with the socket on the bolt. They didn’t have anything close, so I had to make due. I feel I could have done better, but it works and the mount feels great.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#15
Shouldve gotten the Newer bolt from ferd....wont strip unless your an idiot.


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#16
Just for future reference remember that WD-40 stands for Water Displacing Oil, Formula 40. Basically it was designed to be a Rust Preventative and it is NOT A LUBRICANT. Yeah, it does get used sometimes as a lubricant but the simple fact is a very poor lubricant.

What you want to use is Kroil. It may take some looking but you should be able to find it locally and if you can't you can always get it over the Net. I would suggest that you order 2 or 3 cans and store the spare in a closet inside your house so it's not exposed to freeze thaw cycles that could potentially cause the propellant to leak out.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#18
Trans fluid and acetone....end of story. Best penetrant EVER.


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Brezina542

Brezina542

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Thread Starter #19
Just for future reference remember that WD-40 stands for Water Displacing Oil, Formula 40. Basically it was designed to be a Rust Preventative and it is NOT A LUBRICANT. Yeah, it does get used sometimes as a lubricant but the simple fact is a very poor lubricant.

What you want to use is Kroil. It may take some looking but you should be able to find it locally and if you can't you can always get it over the Net. I would suggest that you order 2 or 3 cans and store the spare in a closet inside your house so it's not exposed to freeze thaw cycles that could potentially cause the propellant to leak out.
WD-40 is just what I had on me at the time.

Trans fluid and acetone....end of story. Best penetrant EVER.


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speaking of which, didn’t know acetone had that use. I have a couple 55 gallon drums of acetone ( I work as a production chemist )
In the shop. Every time I use acetone ( everyday about a gallon or more ) it evaporates very quickly and doesn’t provide a good lubrication. That being said, it DOES break down inorganic compounds ( I.e. rust in cars, tools, etc) pretty effectively. I’ll try that next time, as it never dawned on me to be use as a penetrating fluid

Edit : acetone + trans fluid
 


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