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High temp brake fluid recommendations

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269
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391
Location
Atlanta
#1
I don't track my car, but Atlanta is close to some amazing mountain roads that I enjoy every so often. I want to upgrade my brake fluid to take advantage of them without concern, but don't know what to use.

Is Castrol SRF worth the price for my application? Is Motul RBF 660 a better alternative? Redline RL-600?
 


TemecFist

Active member
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Temecula
#3
Endless RF650. Better compression than SRF, less hygrogscopic (less maintenance and able to run longer), SRF 515* vs RF650 424* wet (dry point is worthless considering once you open the bottle, it is no longer "dry". I've run both, and the Endless has WAY better pedal feel (less spongy). Dont forget to bleed your clutch line also.
 


kevinatfms

Senior Member
Messages
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Location
Germantown
#4
RBF600. Dont think ill ever use anything else.

For me, i bleed them every track event. So going through a bit cheaper fluid is easier on the wallet.

And as stated above, shared fluid w/ clutch line so bleed both at the same time.
 


Ford ST

2000 Post Club
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Pleasant Garden
#5
This is a little bit off topic but I recently drove my car on some very good mountain roads at a stupid lose your license go to jail type of speed. I had zero issues with 3-year-old OEM brake fluid.

With that said RF650 sounds like some amazing stuff I'm definitely going to give it a try when I do a brake pad change.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 


Last edited:
Messages
160
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99
Location
Cheshire
#6
You will get different opinions just like engine oil, trans fluid, etc. I just had RF650 put in on preparation for a track day next month. Can go wrong with that or many other brands.
 


TemecFist

Active member
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Temecula
#7
This is a little bit off topic but I recently drove my car on some very good mountain roads at a stupid lose your license go to jail type of speed. I had zero issues with 3-year-old OEM brake fluid.

With that said RF650 sounds like some amazing stuff I'm definitely going to give it a try when I do a brake pad change.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
"Stupid lose your license go to jail type of speed" is still no comparison as to the speed on a track. Not to mention the rigorous demands of a track. Even tho my car is a purpose built track car, I do drive it on the street sometimes, and 90% on street is about 60% on track. And no, i dont baby it in the mountains. It mainly comes down to road conditions. Public roads arent meant for the type of speed a car is capable of, which means you can have all the balls in the world, but if the road is crap, then your limited. Prob why your 3 year old brake fluid felt ok.
 


Ford ST

2000 Post Club
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Pleasant Garden
#8
"Stupid lose your license go to jail type of speed" is still no comparison as to the speed on a track. Not to mention the rigorous demands of a track. Even tho my car is a purpose built track car, I do drive it on the street sometimes, and 90% on street is about 60% on track. And no, i dont baby it in the mountains. It mainly comes down to road conditions. Public roads arent meant for the type of speed a car is capable of, which means you can have all the balls in the world, but if the road is crap, then your limited. Prob why your 3 year old brake fluid felt ok.
The OP wants to drive his car on some nearby mountain roads. He wasn't asking about taking his car to a track.

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TemecFist

Active member
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Temecula
#9
The OP wants to drive his car on some nearby mountain roads. He wasn't asking about taking his car to a track.

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That's my point. Thank you. If your not going on a track, then factory brake fluid will be fine. I did a few track days with factory fluid, never boiled it. If your boiling factory fluid on the street, then you need to adjust your driving style.
 


Messages
579
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461
Location
San Jose
#10
This is a little bit off topic but I recently drove my car on some very good mountain roads at a stupid lose your license go to jail type of speed. I had zero issues with 3-year-old OEM brake fluid.

With that said RF650 sounds like some amazing stuff I'm definitely going to give it a try when I do a brake pad change.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
Supposed to come with Dot 4 from the factory, which I think means race car, right?


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M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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Location
Princeton, N.J.
#11
Endless RF650. Better compression than SRF, less hygrogscopic (less maintenance and able to run longer), SRF 515* vs RF650 424* wet (dry point is worthless considering once you open the bottle, it is no longer "dry". I've run both, and the Endless has WAY better pedal feel (less spongy). Dont forget to bleed your clutch line also.
Would you consider it even less hygroscopic (and therefore less maintenance/full flushes by time required/better longevity for street driving) than the Ate Typ 200, even though it (obviously) has much higher boiling points than the Ate? [dunno]

(Or do you have no experience at all with the Typ 200 in order to compare the two?)
 


TemecFist

Active member
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Temecula
#12
Would you consider it even less hygroscopic (and therefore less maintenance/full flushes by time required/better longevity for street driving) than the Ate Typ 200, even though it (obviously) has much higher boiling points than the Ate? [dunno]

(Or do you have no experience at all with the Typ 200 in order to compare the two?)
Sorry brother. I dont really have experience with the Ate 200. I have experience with the Motul, RF, and SRF. If your not seriously tracking your car tho, just bleeding and maintaining the factory brake fluid should be fine. Another thing to consider (which most people on here dont), is that to truly flush/replace your brake fluid, you have to use Forscan to activate the ABS controller. You want all of the old fluid out of that as well. You can take it to the dealership and have them do it, or just get the Forscan software yourself. Just something else to think about out.
 


TemecFist

Active member
Messages
777
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612
Location
Temecula
#14
Would you consider it even less hygroscopic (and therefore less maintenance/full flushes by time required/better longevity for street driving) than the Ate Typ 200, even though it (obviously) has much higher boiling points than the Ate? [dunno]

(Or do you have no experience at all with the Typ 200 in order to compare the two?)
The ATE type 200 is a good fluid. Try it out and see if you like it. If you dont, change it out. Easy peasy. Just enjoy the drive, that's the main thing!
 


M-Sport fan

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#15
Sorry brother. I dont really have experience with the Ate 200. I have experience with the Motul, RF, and SRF. If your not seriously tracking your car tho, just bleeding and maintaining the factory brake fluid should be fine. Another thing to consider (which most people on here don't), is that to truly flush/replace your brake fluid, you have to use Forscan to activate the ABS controller. You want all of the old fluid out of that as well. You can take it to the dealership and have them do it, or just get the Forscan software yourself. Just something else to think about out.
Yes, already knew about the ABS cycling thing, and it is a MUST DO for me (along with a clutch system flush at the same time), so probably going to the dealer for that.

I also asked dealers in the area if they had any problem with any aftermarket brake fluids, or if they require you to use the Motorcraft factory DOT4 LV stuff with their equipment, and most are OK with the aftermarket performance stuff.

I really want to find the highest performance/highest wet boiling point DOT4 LV fluid I can get.
I remember seeing the Bosch DOT4 LV fluid in a metal can on the shelf at Auto Zone, and it had slightly better specs than the Motorcraft, but I am wondering if there is anything above even that out there in a DOT4 LV fluid. [dunno]
 


Messages
579
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461
Location
San Jose
#16
It does come factory with Dot 4, but not all Dot 4 fluids are the same.
May not be equal but they all meet the same minimum requirements right?

It’s the same thing with most certifications in the automotive world, no?


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