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Hijinx’ Build

Hijinx

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Fairview Heights
#1
Though she be but little, she is fierce!


I'm well overdue for a build thread. I got my ST last year late May/early June. I started modding at 500 miles. My intention with modding this car is to have what I like to think of as a brawler on the streets. Balancing agility, speed, drive ability, safety and fun have been kept in mind throughout the evolution; many parts have been swapped for others. Without much further ado:



Currently:
Engine/Drivetrain

  • Dead Hook Motorsports Built Engine w/ 11:1 CR Tuned by...Dead Hook Motorsports.
    - Dead Hook Motorsports Wiseco Pistons
    - Dead Hook Motorsports K1 H-beam Rods
    - Dead Hook Motorsports Blueprinting
    - ARP Head Studs
  • Dead Hook Motorsports GTX450r Turbo Kit
    - Tial Q Bov
    - Tial MV-S 38mm External Wastegate
    - Dead Hook Motorsports GTX Tubular Manifold
    - Dead Hook Motorsports Downpipe
    - Garrett GTX2867r .63 A/R
  • Dead Hook Motorsports Race Intercooler and Crash Bar
  • Dead Hook Motorsports Boost Control Solenoid
  • cp-e aIntake
  • ATP Vacuum Block
  • MBRP CBE
  • Denso ITV22
  • Stratified Automotive Controls Aux Fuel Kit
  • Stratified Automotive Controls Guardian Angel & 3.5 bar TMAP
  • Boomba Racing Transmission Bracket Bushings
  • Mountune Quick Shift Kit
  • Cobb RMM
  • [MENTION=952]frankiefiesta[/MENTION] Filled Pax and Driver Engine Mounts
  • Spec Stage 3 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel
  • Mishimoto OCC
  • Mishimoto 160* Thermostat

Suspension/Braking

  • Pierce 6-point
  • Pierce Mid-brace
  • TB Performance Torsion Beam Bar
  • Hawk PC Pads
  • StopTech Slotted Rotors
  • Meister R Coilovers

Wheels/Tires

  • Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 in gold - Continental DWS06 205/45-17
  • Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 in bronze - BFG Rival-S 225/45-15


Interior

  • Cobb Shift Knob
  • 10" Infinity Basslink
  • 20% Tint
  • No-Pistons Dead Pedal

Exterior

  • Perrin 4" Shorty Antenna
  • Seibon CF Hood - Stock Style

Future Plans

  • Boomba Racing Aluminum Shifter Base Bushings

My ST has seen a few other parts. For instance, I was the test mule for the Panda Motorworks Treadstone Intercooler. I once had a catted 2JR DP, Cobb CBE, Cobb intake, Mountune silicone hose, and drop in w/unlimited plenum box mod, the ATP hotside charge pipe, and the Cyborg turbo. I also had OZ Ultraleggeras and the Cobb shift knob which I still have, but I prefer my OEM. I think that's everything...

So, we all know this thread would be useless without pics. Unfortunately, I'm not big on catching moments, as I'm kind of selfish with them.


Right before the wheels were swapped.



So here's what she looks like right now.





I hope you enjoyed my brief journey. I absolutely love this little car.
 


OP
Hijinx

Hijinx

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Thread Starter #3
How soon are you going to get the DHM fmic and selling me the COBB lol?
Actually, I'm thinking...next week. But I have to get on the same page as Russ to see if he has some kits on-hand so the buyer isn't waiting very long, as I don't have my OEM sitting around.
 


OP
Hijinx

Hijinx

3000 Post Club
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Thread Starter #6
Hijinx' Selena, the Street Assassin

Here's the Pierce mid-brace for those that may wonder. Tomorrow, I'll test fit and then paint of that goes well. It replaces the brace in the middle of the car. It's biggest benefit is the clearance. It allows more leeway for bigger 3" exhausts.

 


rexdriver85

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#9
Would you mind showing pictures of your Infinity Basslink install? Looking for a little more oomph out of the factory audio without going huge into it. How do you like it? Thanks :)
 


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#10
Very nice. Those have to be the best looking wheels for the FiST other than the outrageously priced 5150 five-spokes.

Looking forward to see "Tha Powah" you put down.
 


OP
Hijinx

Hijinx

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Thread Starter #11
Would you mind showing pictures of your Infinity Basslink install? Looking for a little more oomph out of the factory audio without going huge into it. How do you like it? Thanks :)
For the Basslink install, I used a 10 gauge Boss wire kit, and followed the sub install DIY that can be found here on the forums. That thread shows you routing and where and which lines to tap into for signal and remote power. I didn't use a line converter, only T-Taps. Also, I only used two lines for signal, instead of the 4-8 the Infinity instructions suggest.

Here, I had to cut the positive lead cap to make room for the power. I bent it down and it runs through the corrugated piping that you see going off to the right. The in-line fuse is just right around the corner of the battery. I don't have my symposer plugged in, so I routed the power wire through the symposer piping. The symposer piping is free and clear of any obstructions and exits into the cabin under the dash. Once you learn to become a contortionist, you can see it easily peeking underneath. Then I ran the cables per the DIY thread. Just pop out the kick panels and b-pilar panel and stuff it in the holes. I routed between and then underneath the back seat when I couldn't go any further without removing the c-pilar panel.



This is how I secured the Basslink. Industrial strength Velcro. Will it hold up in an accident? I'm unsure. But I do know I'm a strong guy, and I have a difficult time yanking it out. It has to be "peeled" out slowly. The feet each have a piece of Velcro. There is also a piece attached to the bottom side (two sides) of the case. Then, they are secured to the carpet. I chose Velcro because while it's not easier to get out, it's less cumbersome, and because I didn't want to drill into my floor. That thing is nearly $200.




Here is the final install.



All said and done, I love my Basslink. There are some songs that play and I wonder how people could deal with much more bass in this little car and I don't even have the bass maxed on either the Basslink or the HU. Plus, a hatchback acts as a ported box already. I'm no audio professional, but the sound is crisp and clear, and does not muddy up the mids. It's only downfall is that it's not powerful enough to make the lowest of the lows as audible as a more expensive set up could. Outside of the vehicle it's hardly noticeable, which was something else that was important to me. Overall, for the money spent, it was an awesome addition to an average system that needs the lows addressed. I hope this helps.
 


OP
Hijinx

Hijinx

3000 Post Club
Messages
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Thread Starter #12
Very nice. Those have to be the best looking wheels for the FiST other than the outrageously priced 5150 five-spokes.

Looking forward to see "Tha Powah" you put down.
Thanks! I'm sooooo happy I went with these wheels! I wish I had in the first place like I intended, but you live and you learn, you know?
 


rexdriver85

Active member
Messages
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Location
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#13
For the Basslink install, I used a 10 gauge Boss wire kit, and followed the sub install DIY that can be found here on the forums. That thread shows you routing and where and which lines to tap into for signal and remote power. I didn't use a line converter, only T-Taps. Also, I only used two lines for signal, instead of the 4-8 the Infinity instructions suggest.

Here, I had to cut the positive lead cap to make room for the power. I bent it down and it runs through the corrugated piping that you see going off to the right. The in-line fuse is just right around the corner of the battery. I don't have my symposer plugged in, so I routed the power wire through the symposer piping. The symposer piping is free and clear of any obstructions and exits into the cabin under the dash. Once you learn to become a contortionist, you can see it easily peeking underneath. Then I ran the cables per the DIY thread. Just pop out the kick panels and b-pilar panel and stuff it in the holes. I routed between and then underneath the back seat when I couldn't go any further without removing the c-pilar panel.



This is how I secured the Basslink. Industrial strength Velcro. Will it hold up in an accident? I'm unsure. But I do know I'm a strong guy, and I have a difficult time yanking it out. It has to be "peeled" out slowly. The feet each have a piece of Velcro. There is also a piece attached to the bottom side (two sides) of the case. Then, they are secured to the carpet. I chose Velcro because while it's not easier to get out, it's less cumbersome, and because I didn't want to drill into my floor. That thing is nearly $200.




Here is the final install.



All said and done, I love my Basslink. There are some songs that play and I wonder how people could deal with much more bass in this little car and I don't even have the bass maxed on either the Basslink or the HU. Plus, a hatchback acts as a ported box already. I'm no audio professional, but the sound is crisp and clear, and does not muddy up the mids. It's only downfall is that it's not powerful enough to make the lowest of the lows as audible as a more expensive set up could. Outside of the vehicle it's hardly noticeable, which was something else that was important to me. Overall, for the money spent, it was an awesome addition to an average system that needs the lows addressed. I hope this helps.
Thanks for a quick and detailed reply sir!! Looks good, I think I will eventually do this. [like]
 


OP
Hijinx

Hijinx

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Thread Starter #17
So, I got under the car today to finally get my Pierce mid brace piece installed! And snapped a couple pictures since we all know "pics or it didn't happen." I got a pic of my struts, and 2J intake and also found some older pictures of the my Cyborg to OEM comparison. I'm just gonna dump them in no particular order.

 


OP
Hijinx

Hijinx

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Thread Starter #20
So, last night I completed the install of my DHM race Intercooler and crash bar and the GTX2867r Kit. Let me address the race cooler and crash bar first:

It's pretty straightforward. I used my spare and a sturdy box to support my radiator. The install is a little involved for sure, but nothing silly. On a scale of 1-10, I'd rate the difficulty as a 4. As I was short on time, I haven't opened my grille yet. Next weekend I'll probably drill holes and address it in the fall when it isn't as balls hot. As far as effectiveness, even without an open grille it seems to do a better job than my Cobb. More established results have yet to be seen as I haven't gotten the chance to do some real pulls on it yet, but in 97* weather riding around town in traffic temps are sitting at about 2-3* above ambient. My Cobb would have been seeing around 10* above ambient in this weather.

Now...this GTX Kit. It's not for the feint of heart, and way out of the league for someone who's not mechanically inclined. I didn't have to remove the axle as DHM has said elsewhere on these forums but even if I had, I personally can only get one arm in under the car. With that in mind, install is a PAIN IN THE ASS. We're working with very confined spaces, so nearly everything has to line up just right. The braided oil and water lines absolutely refuse to be of any help, and insist on being rebellious. This is almost contrary to a stock turbo removal/install. With the stock turbo, once it's drained and disconnected you remove the bolts from manifold to engine and you can lift the whole thing right out the top. Would I do it again...? Maybe. Hopefully I don't have to go in there again anytime soon. On a scale of 1-10, id give it a solid 8, where the stock turbo would be a 6.

Initial impressions of the GTX kit:

Upon start up: OMGAKDJSOSBBDKSNSNSLAOIEHRNDKMfbbsusosnesjisk!!!!!!!!!11111!!!

Sorry... Ok, so now that I've regained my composure, OMG this car sounds amazing. Think WRC rally car. It's the sound of 4 cylinder power. ANYONE on any platform will have no doubts that something is different.

The car is being tuned by Panda Motorworks and I'm only on a base tune so there's not much to say about he driving experience other than OMGBBQ this car sounds amazing.

Russ over at DHM has put a lot into developing this kit and trust me, it shows!!! From fitment all the way down each weld! Installing it myself has given me a whole new appreciation for him and his crew. Though they may be small, they are fierce!

Pic dump:



That's all folks.
 


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