• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


Hood release doesn't work + side skirt repair

Business6

Senior Member
Messages
899
Likes
880
Location
Northern UT
#1
This probably got messed up a bit when I did the mountune radiator install back in late June but I haven't had any issue with the cable up until this happened and there was no indication of an issue before. Basically, the hood release has no tension on it and, from what two different shops say, I have to break into my own engine bay through the grille because there's no other damn way to do it. The most recent shop I went to has had to do this before and mentioned that replacing the hood release cable would be a good idea while we're at it.

Has anyone else run into this before and if, you did, what was your approach? If anyone has a spare grille lying around feel free to let me know...

And, back in June again, a shop damaged my driver side skirt and popped a few clips off of it. Finally getting around to having the time to resolve that (and bill the shop that caused it) and I wanted to double check the part numbers since the guy said he was just going to take the whole thing off. I've found W716352S300 and W716351S300 of which I would need 9 and 4 respectfully, if I'm reading these diagrams correctly. Can anyone confirm? Thanks
 


PhoenixM3

Senior Member
Messages
806
Likes
510
Location
Colorado Springs
#2
This probably got messed up a bit when I did the mountune radiator install back in late June but I haven't had any issue with the cable up until this happened and there was no indication of an issue before. Basically, the hood release has no tension on it and, from what two different shops say, I have to break into my own engine bay through the grille because there's no other damn way to do it. The most recent shop I went to has had to do this before and mentioned that replacing the hood release cable would be a good idea while we're at it.

Has anyone else run into this before and if, you did, what was your approach? If anyone has a spare grille lying around feel free to let me know...

And, back in June again, a shop damaged my driver side skirt and popped a few clips off of it. Finally getting around to having the time to resolve that (and bill the shop that caused it) and I wanted to double check the part numbers since the guy said he was just going to take the whole thing off. I've found W716352S300 and W716351S300 of which I would need 9 and 4 respectfully, if I'm reading these diagrams correctly. Can anyone confirm? Thanks
I faced this issue 8 months ago. You can likely fit a 10mm socket on a long extension and remove the two bolts holding the latch mechanism in place. You will need to protect the paint on both the underside of the hood and the top of the front bumper cover. The hood won’t flex (it’s metal), but the bumper cover will. If you have a second person to assist, it will go easier.
 


OP
Business6

Business6

Senior Member
Messages
899
Likes
880
Location
Northern UT
Thread Starter #3
I faced this issue 8 months ago. You can likely fit a 10mm socket on a long extension and remove the two bolts holding the latch mechanism in place. You will need to protect the paint on both the underside of the hood and the top of the front bumper cover. The hood won’t flex (it’s metal), but the bumper cover will. If you have a second person to assist, it will go easier.
Hell yeah, I'll give that a try on Saturday, thanks!
 


OP
Business6

Business6

Senior Member
Messages
899
Likes
880
Location
Northern UT
Thread Starter #5
I’ll snap a photo of the location of the 10mm bolts. Also, tape the deep 10mm socket to the extension with electrical tape. This will prevent marring AND keep the whole shebang together.
Much appreciated!
 


the duke

Senior Member
Messages
935
Likes
887
Location
Cleveland
#6
I faced this issue 8 months ago. You can likely fit a 10mm socket on a long extension and remove the two bolts holding the latch mechanism in place. You will need to protect the paint on both the underside of the hood and the top of the front bumper cover. The hood won’t flex (it’s metal), but the bumper cover will. If you have a second person to assist, it will go easier.
Always a fucking 10mm.
 


rallytaff

1000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
1,164
Likes
803
Location
Los Angeles
#9
This probably got messed up a bit when I did the mountune radiator install back in late June but I haven't had any issue with the cable up until this happened and there was no indication of an issue before. Basically, the hood release has no tension on it and, from what two different shops say, I have to break into my own engine bay through the grille because there's no other damn way to do it. The most recent shop I went to has had to do this before and mentioned that replacing the hood release cable would be a good idea while we're at it.

Has anyone else run into this before and if, you did, what was your approach? If anyone has a spare grille lying around feel free to let me know...

And, back in June again, a shop damaged my driver side skirt and popped a few clips off of it. Finally getting around to having the time to resolve that (and bill the shop that caused it) and I wanted to double check the part numbers since the guy said he was just going to take the whole thing off. I've found W716352S300 and W716351S300 of which I would need 9 and 4 respectfully, if I'm reading these diagrams correctly. Can anyone confirm? Thanks
I've found W716352S300 is the correct part number. Got a pack for my car yesterday.
 


OP
Business6

Business6

Senior Member
Messages
899
Likes
880
Location
Northern UT
Thread Starter #10
I've found W716352S300 is the correct part number. Got a pack for my car yesterday.
Luckily that's the one I ended up ordering.

I did get my hood open yesterday at the expense of the paint on the hood and bumper for a few inches. Just drove a 10mm socket in there after wedging it and undid the two bolts holding the entire lock in place. The cable wasn't entirely detached from the mechanism but it doesn't work the same way anymore so I'll have to, for peace of mind, replace the whole cable when the body shop does the side skirt repair.

Anyhow, massive relief. Already changed the oil and got new spark plugs to toss in once my back lets me move again, lol
 


Similar threads



Top