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I think I broke it.
- Thread starter NotGnu
- Start date
this guy's postings are like being inside the unfiltered mind of my 22 year old past self. no context. no details. and i love it.
dude took his newly acquired car (after admitting that it made him cash poor) and went full send to 140mph on summer tires in cold weather...on probably public roads. kids got b@lls.
i have no doubts he might've blown his engine. or all these postings might be one epic troll. either way i'm here for it.
dude took his newly acquired car (after admitting that it made him cash poor) and went full send to 140mph on summer tires in cold weather...on probably public roads. kids got b@lls.
i have no doubts he might've blown his engine. or all these postings might be one epic troll. either way i'm here for it.
Thread Starter
#7
Sorry for the lack of details. It was late at night and I went to bed. Checked the scanner this morning. P1299.
Well, this CHT sensor supposedly protects the engine from over heating. But it sure did scare the crap out of me.
Scared to drive it to the dealer w/ the warranty as it is over an hr away.
Going to test for coolant leaks next.
Well, this CHT sensor supposedly protects the engine from over heating. But it sure did scare the crap out of me.
Scared to drive it to the dealer w/ the warranty as it is over an hr away.
Going to test for coolant leaks next.
Thread Starter
#9
yes to coolant looks ok. I have a service appointment scheduled for 4-24.
Tried to check the valves, but I couldn't get past a bolt that held the coil on. It just spins and spins but does not loosen. dang it.
Tried to check the valves, but I couldn't get past a bolt that held the coil on. It just spins and spins but does not loosen. dang it.
Thread Starter
#10
new dash cam. The default settings were in kph and 1 min. intervals. I have since changed them. I wasn't actually running that hard.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zH...o7Zdg4PiyexEEeVQ2ep2IqTxyVNmjYfc8wzVQV3bRKJKU
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zH...o7Zdg4PiyexEEeVQ2ep2IqTxyVNmjYfc8wzVQV3bRKJKU
It's got 90k ish miles. It worked perfectly when I pulled it. I swapped in a transmission that had upgraded gears and an LSD. I had the transmission pulled apart and inspected by one of the better if not the best ST/RS mechanic in the country. I happen to live close to his shop. I can make you a good deal on the trans. I'm tired of tripping over it in my garage.
If you ever let that reservoir get too low you will need a vacuum filler to re-fill the radiator. The reason for this is that Ford was too cheap to put a radiator cap on the top of the radiator. As a result the fluid level in the radiator is the same as the fluid level in the reservoir at ambient pressure. Measure that level with a tape measure on the floor and look at that same distance from the floor for the radiator and you will see you have a giant air bubble in the radiator unless you use a vacuum filler. BTW, in addition to the vacuum filler device you will also need an Air Compressor to provide a high pressure air stream for the vacuum filler. I'll also note that the heater for the interior will also be sitting high and dry wtihout a vacuum fill but I've actually never looked to see if the heater box is higher or lower than the reservoir.
Tips. First, Ford cheaped out on the radiators in these cars in terms of capacity. As a result over heating at an Autocross even is typical. Unfortunately IIRC the SCCA rules forbid the use of a non OEM radiator in these cars. As a result you will need to use a water weter in your cooling system and run the heat on full hot with full fan powder to keep the engine cool enough to last for the total laps required. I will also note that a lower temperature thermostat won't do spit for overheating. Because it's doesn't matter if you have a 160 or 195 degree thermostat when the colling system is pushing 250 degrees. Either thermostat will be wide open in this case and I have found that this particular engine operates most efficiently at 195 degrees.
If you are not racing in an official sanctioned event than those radiator rules don't mean a thing. In this case the finest option is to install a higher capacity radiator. I have the Mountune 3 pass radiator in my car and it will pull a 7.5 degree grade on I-64 in Virginia at 73 MPH with on a 95 degree August day with the temperature indicator showing a steady 4 bars the entire pull. I will also note that my car has the OEM thermostat and when I installed the Mountune radiator I saw an immediate 4 mpg improvement in fuel economy. As in the fuel mileage indicator read 31 mpg going to my friends shop and 35 mpg driving home from the shop. When I can keep my foot out of the turbo I have seen city mileage of a bit more than 37 mpg. One tip concerning the Mountune, and perhaps the Mishimoto, is that you need to insure that NOTHING is rubbing the coolant hoses on the front of the engine after installing the larger radiator. I failed to do that and learned first hand about why a vacuum filler is so critical. In my case a rib on the fan shroud was rubbing one of the hoses and that started a slow leak. Now that hose has been replaced and a carefully located wire tie insures that the nothing on the fan shroud is touching anything on the front of the engine.
PS: a tip on a temporary repair for a coolant hose that isn't in stock anywhere. Take a BICYCLE inner tube patch kit and use a bit of 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the hose around the repair. Then follow the instructions and secure that inner tube patch in place. Then take a roll of electricians tape and with tension wrap that patched area for a minimum of 4 layers of tape. That will provide a leak free patch that in my case that lasted for 3 weeks while I was waiting on the new hose. Note the Bicycle patch is a single thickness thiinner material that will take a pretty tight wrap on a smaller rubber hose, a regular car tire patch will be much thicker and wont bend enough to fully secure to a small hose. I'll also note this repair will NOT work for an old rotted rubber hose, in that case you'll have to park the car until you get a new hose.
Tips. First, Ford cheaped out on the radiators in these cars in terms of capacity. As a result over heating at an Autocross even is typical. Unfortunately IIRC the SCCA rules forbid the use of a non OEM radiator in these cars. As a result you will need to use a water weter in your cooling system and run the heat on full hot with full fan powder to keep the engine cool enough to last for the total laps required. I will also note that a lower temperature thermostat won't do spit for overheating. Because it's doesn't matter if you have a 160 or 195 degree thermostat when the colling system is pushing 250 degrees. Either thermostat will be wide open in this case and I have found that this particular engine operates most efficiently at 195 degrees.
If you are not racing in an official sanctioned event than those radiator rules don't mean a thing. In this case the finest option is to install a higher capacity radiator. I have the Mountune 3 pass radiator in my car and it will pull a 7.5 degree grade on I-64 in Virginia at 73 MPH with on a 95 degree August day with the temperature indicator showing a steady 4 bars the entire pull. I will also note that my car has the OEM thermostat and when I installed the Mountune radiator I saw an immediate 4 mpg improvement in fuel economy. As in the fuel mileage indicator read 31 mpg going to my friends shop and 35 mpg driving home from the shop. When I can keep my foot out of the turbo I have seen city mileage of a bit more than 37 mpg. One tip concerning the Mountune, and perhaps the Mishimoto, is that you need to insure that NOTHING is rubbing the coolant hoses on the front of the engine after installing the larger radiator. I failed to do that and learned first hand about why a vacuum filler is so critical. In my case a rib on the fan shroud was rubbing one of the hoses and that started a slow leak. Now that hose has been replaced and a carefully located wire tie insures that the nothing on the fan shroud is touching anything on the front of the engine.
PS: a tip on a temporary repair for a coolant hose that isn't in stock anywhere. Take a BICYCLE inner tube patch kit and use a bit of 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the hose around the repair. Then follow the instructions and secure that inner tube patch in place. Then take a roll of electricians tape and with tension wrap that patched area for a minimum of 4 layers of tape. That will provide a leak free patch that in my case that lasted for 3 weeks while I was waiting on the new hose. Note the Bicycle patch is a single thickness thiinner material that will take a pretty tight wrap on a smaller rubber hose, a regular car tire patch will be much thicker and wont bend enough to fully secure to a small hose. I'll also note this repair will NOT work for an old rotted rubber hose, in that case you'll have to park the car until you get a new hose.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#14
I don't think it is actually over heating. As soon as it happens, I pull over, let it idle for a minute, then I reset the code and the temp is right in the middle. I wish I could temporarily disable/bi pass this CHT sensor just to get me by until my appnt. 4-24 at the dealer. I can't even find it.
Thread Starter
#19
Not slinging shade.
I am just here waiting for help.
Google doesn't even know where my sensor is located, it seems.
My Fist has been out of commission for at least a week.
About to make my second car payment.
The miss-fire code came up on the first drive home.
Now this P1299 thing and I am starting to get worried.
I am just here waiting for help.
Google doesn't even know where my sensor is located, it seems.
My Fist has been out of commission for at least a week.
About to make my second car payment.
The miss-fire code came up on the first drive home.
Now this P1299 thing and I am starting to get worried.
I really don't think you are truly hitting high temps to make the car go into limp mode. I am on stock radiator and bigger turbo, and I have basically hot lapped this car in 85F degree days at Dragway 42 autocrosses and the car didnt go into limp mode.
It is likely a coolant temp sensor that has gone bad https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/fo...-Temperature-Sensor/54562347/7M5Z12A648B.html they are on the top of the engine on the backside IIRC
Also if your car is a 2014 (or very early 2015 build) and was part of the cylinder head recall, there is a coolant fill sensor that was installed. That is worth checking too
It is likely a coolant temp sensor that has gone bad https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/fo...-Temperature-Sensor/54562347/7M5Z12A648B.html they are on the top of the engine on the backside IIRC
Also if your car is a 2014 (or very early 2015 build) and was part of the cylinder head recall, there is a coolant fill sensor that was installed. That is worth checking too
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