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is there such a thing as too much cooling?

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Lancaster, PA, USA
#1
so currently, the only performance mods I have done to my car (18 with 39k) is an AP with a stage 1 Cobb OTS. been running great so far.

I plan on doing FBO slowly but surely. Intake, catback, intercooler,(looking at whoosh v1 as I don't plan on a big turbo anytime soon) and dizzy tune with step colder plugs (e30 if my town ever gets it, 93 for now)

My question is, as someone who lives in PA where it gets pretty dang cold (FiST is my daily, so it will see snow and lots of 0 degree mornings) is there such a thing as too much cooling? I haven't had it in the summer yet as I've only had it 2 months, so IDK how it does heat wise, but I was thinking maybe I should put a 180 thermostat in with a new radiator as well as the intercooler. I just didn't know if theres a possibility of condensation or some other issue I may not be aware of. Thanks!
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
so currently, the only performance mods I have done to my car (18 with 39k) is an AP with a stage 1 Cobb OTS. been running great so far.

I plan on doing FBO slowly but surely. Intake, catback, intercooler,(looking at whoosh v1 as I don't plan on a big turbo anytime soon) and dizzy tune with step colder plugs (e30 if my town ever gets it, 93 for now)

My question is, as someone who lives in PA where it gets pretty dang cold (FiST is my daily, so it will see snow and lots of 0 degree mornings) is there such a thing as too much cooling? I haven't had it in the summer yet as I've only had it 2 months, so IDK how it does heat wise, but I was thinking maybe I should put a 180 thermostat in with a new radiator as well as the intercooler. I just didn't know if theres a possibility of condensation or some other issue I may not be aware of. Thanks!
Do you drive it in the winter? If so stick with the stock Thermostat. You will thank me when it gets colder out.The upgraded radiator will bring Temps down greatly especially in the heat of summer with A/c on. If you run too cold of a Thermostat like say a 160° can cause deposit issues of the spark plugs as they won't get hot enough to burn them off. It also can effect the oil also* So if you really wanna run a 180° it should be fine. The heater just won't get nice and toasty in the winter like with the Stock Thermostat.

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OP
rcnut14
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Thread Starter #3
Do you drive it in the winter? If so stick with the stock Thermostat. You will thank me when it gets colder out.The upgraded radiator will bring Temps down greatly especially in the heat of summer with A/c on. If you run too cold of a Thermostat like say a 160° can cause deposit issues of the spark plugs as they won't get hot enough to burn them off. It also can effect the oil also* So if you really wanna run a 180° it should be fine. The heater just won't get nice and toasty in the winter like with the Stock Thermostat.

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yes, that’s my main concern. As I said, it’s my daily and currently only car (and will be for quite awhile) so it will see plenty of snow and 0 degree days in the winter.

my main question is condensation, it there such a thing as TOO cold of charge air, and if so should I be worried?

noted on the thermostat, the only reason I would change it is cause I’ve seen a lot about it in the forums here. What about the rad?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#4
yes, that’s my main concern. As I said, it’s my daily and currently only car (and will be for quite awhile) so it will see plenty of snow and 0 degree days in the winter.

my main question is condensation, it there such a thing as TOO cold of charge air, and if so should I be worried?

noted on the thermostat, the only reason I would change it is cause I’ve seen a lot about it in the forums here. What about the rad?
Radiator would be my #1 and next up the Charge Air Cooler. Do you have an cobb accessport? This is where a larger CAC would be the most beneficial.

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M-Sport fan

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I don't know if there could be such a thing as 'too cold' as far as the charge air temps go, and you will never be able to get them colder than ambient temps anyway without spraying the intercooler with nitrous oxide, or CO2.

Whatever our lowest winter temp gets to here in eastern Pennsyltucky is as cold as that boosted air is going to get.

Ironically, whatever extra power this does result in is wasted anyway, since no tires will grip in those temps unless you get the special sub-freezing bespoke compound cut slicks they use in the Monte Carlo rally's alpine stages, when dry.

An aftermarket intercooler will never hurt, unless you have no plans whatsoever to ever add anything more than factory power levels, and even then only the most huge ICs (Pro Alloy, old DHM, Wagner, and Ty's fave the Bravo Alpha) would be 'overkill', and possibly cause any sort of noticeable pressure drop with the factory snail.

I live not too far from you and I have never over-heated here with the factory radiator, and factory 187*F thermostat (NEVER even went over 212*F, even in the 105*+ heat waves we get once and a while).
In fact, my engine struggles to even hit 190*F temps unless the ambient temps are over 85*F.

Unless you are open tracking the car in the summer here, I would just go with an aftermarket radiator, and retain the factory 187* thermostat, especially if you do any 'short-tripping' (like under 45 minutes driving time) with the car for local errands, especially in the WINTER, where the coolant temps, and therefore the OIL as well, never even hit 180*F. [wink]
 


Last edited:
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#6
I don't know if there could be such a thing as 'too cold' as far as the charge air temps go, and you will never be able to get them colder than ambient temps anyway without spraying the intercooler with nitrous oxide, or CO2.

Whatever our lowest winter temp gets to here in eastern Pennsyltucky is as cold as that boosted air is going to get.

Ironically, whatever extra power this does result in is wasted anyway, since no tires will grip in those temps unless you get the special sub-freezing bespoke compound cut slicks they use in the Monte Carlo rally's alpine stages, when dry.

An aftermarket intercooler will never hurt, unless you have no plans whatsoever to ever add anything more than factory power levels, and even then only the most huge ICs (Pro Alloy, old DHM, Wagner, and Ty's fave the Bravo Alpha) would be 'overkill', and possibly cause any sort of noticeable pressure drop with the factory snail.

I live not too far from you and I have never over-heated here with the factory radiator, and factory 187*F thermostat (NEVER even went over 212*F, even in the 105*+ heat waves we get once and a while).
In fact, my engine struggles to even hit 190*F temps unless the ambient temps are over 85*F.

Unless you are open tracking the car in the summer here, I would just go with an aftermarket radiator, and retain the factory 187* thermostat, especially if you do any 'short-tripping' (like under 45 minutes driving time) with the car for local errands, especially in the WINTER, where the coolant temps, and therefore the OIL as well, never even hit 180*F. [wink]
Isn’t the factory t-stat 207?
 


SteveS

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#9
Too-cold coolant is definitely a problem. The fad for running cooler thermostats can cause problems, just as step-colder spark plugs can be a recipe for misfires.

Cooler charge air is definitely an advantage most of the time, allowing more power production from the increased density of air and lower detonation problems. But too cold charge air becomes a problem also, leading to A/F ratio problems and even ignition problems and trouble starting. The engine and ECU have been designed to start the engine even in very cold temperatures, however, and once running, the engine develops enough heat that a bigger intercooler shouldn't be a problem even in a colder climate. I suppose in super cold places you might need an engine heater when you're parked.
 


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