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Isabella de la fiesta

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Location
Chesapeake, VA, USA
#1
And here it begins. The teardown. Isabella de la fiesta will be getting a heart transplant in the coming weeks. A redtop pumaspeed engine is in route as well as an x47r. She currently has 2js intake, downpipe and exhaust, turbosmarts bov and 14psi wastegate and whoosh's v3 intercooler, pipes and symposer delete. Hopefully I can fix her broken heart.


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OP
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Chesapeake, VA, USA
Thread Starter #3
So to get the front bumper off you must take off 2 15mm bolts off the windshield wiper blades, take blades off, remove upper cowl. After that, remove the 4 tq 25 bolts and the 2 trim screws from the headlights. Then you remove lower cowl by removing 4 10mm bolts from the holes my fingers point to. 2 for each side. Make sure to disconnect the line attached to the lower cowl. Get into the wheel well (it helps to turn your tires depending on what side your on) remove the 2 tq 25 bolts, 1 7mm bolt and trim screw from each wheel well. Time to remove the front bumper. There are 7 and 8mm bolts under the bumper. Those remove the skid plate? Not sure what to call it. You can remove it all as one piece but I find it much easier to seperate them before reinstall. Remove the 6 8mm bolts from the fenders (3 on each side). The top 2 can be removed with a 12 in wobble extension and a standard socket. The bottom has to be removed with a wrench. Remove the 2 8mm bolts holding up the intercooler and disconnect hoses. More will be coming soon.


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Location
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Thread Starter #4
A redtop engine is pumaspeeds built 1.6 liter for the Ford st180

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Thread Starter #5
Next remove all wiring harnesses. This includes the temp sensors in front of the radiator, harness for the horn, hood latch harness for the hood latch sensor. Remove the coolant hoses and AC compressor low and high lines. This will drop your hood prop too so make sure to prop up the hood with something. I used a jack handle. 8 13mm bolts hold the crash bar in place. The high and low ac use 10 mm nuts on studs. Don't lose the gasket. Also be wary if doing this in an enclosed space. R134 has ozone in it which is very toxic and the green ooze is irritating to the skin. This process will remove crash bar and radiator allowing access to the front of the engine.


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Chesapeake, VA, USA
Thread Starter #6
Tip: make sure you bag and tag everything if your doing an engine swap. It will really speed up your swap. Tag every harness with a sharpie and duct tape and seperate all the bolts into zip lock bags. Also, if youve made a habit of losing to the bolt wizard make a list of them so when you put everything back together you have everything you need and don't have to order anything last minute.

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Thread Starter #8
You can order oem, gas ported or race ported heads for either the blue top or red top. You can also upgrade cams in the red top but it's limited. The blue top you can atleast select a stage 2 cam to be installed. The bottom end is fully forged minus the crank and they say can rev to 7250 safely. With I beams that goes up to 8300 if you balance your flywheel as well

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Thread Starter #9
This is where I'm at after 4 hrs of work. Keep systematically labeling connectors and hoses.


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#10
Straight to the source: http://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Pumaspeed-16-EcoBoost-Race-Red-Top-Engine_17947.jsp

And the blue top race engine: http://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Pumaspeed-16-EcoBoost-Race-Blue-Top-Engine_17948.jsp

Interested to see how it performs with the X47R.

EDIT: Stupid viglink...
 


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Chesapeake, VA, USA
Thread Starter #11
Just ordered some new stuff from whoosh. My dad gave me an early Xmas present. In route I have whoosh's coolant hoses kit, transmission cable and shifter bushings, short shifter, mishimoto thermostat, and power flex race mount inserts for engine and transmission mounts.

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Thread Starter #13
Finally get the engine harness off. I think I counted 4 ground wires on this thing...


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KnockOff

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#14
Finally get the engine harness off. I think I counted 4 ground wires on this thing...


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That's good. Back in my street racing days me and my buddy's would buy some 8aug wire and redo all the ground wires. On the Honda's is would smooth out the idle a lil bit. My ford it seems it did nothing lol. It was cheaper than buying a "ground wire kit"

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shouldbeasy

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#15
Oh man, that Milwaukee Ratchet is fuckin' gold - my word they speed things up. Best purchase I've made in a loooong time.
 


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Chesapeake, VA, USA
Thread Starter #16
So this is a ton of money wasted. I found the issue. The damn wastegate bolt seized. I had to cut it off to even seperate the housing and turbo.


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shouldbeasy

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#17
So this is a ton of money wasted. I found the issue. The damn wastegate bolt seized. I had to cut it off to even seperate the housing and turbo.


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....

Worth bringing it to Ford’s attention? Would they honor any warranties?

Odd it failed... as I understand it, the wastegate was held open and resulted in over boosting?
 


shouldbeasy

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#19
Also housing and turbo welded itself together....

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Wow, that’s a lot of heat concentrated there - it was the only logical explanation I could think of for the bolt seizing too.
 


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Location
Chesapeake, VA, USA
Thread Starter #20
This look right? I can't remember from the last time I had it apart. Absolutely no shaft play


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