Midship Brace - Broke a stud

[Kosty23]

Ended up snapping one of the midship brace support studs when installing my thermal R&D. Has this happened to anyone else? What did you end up doing? I'm hearing mixed opinions and wildly differing on what to do about it.

 

[Kosty23]

Pic for reference

 

[JDG]

I would just purchase a new stud that is the same thread and take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld it back on; assuming you can't weld yourself in which case I don't think you would be asking this question. Also make sure you use anti-seize when rethreading all 4 nuts. Wouldn't hurt to purchase new nuts as well.

 

[Kosty23]

I would just purchase a new stud that is the same thread and take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld it back on; assuming you can't weld yourself in which case I don't think you would be asking this question. Also make sure you use anti-seize when rethreading all 4 nuts. Wouldn't hurt to purchase new nuts as well.

I don't know what the thread size is. I do not know how to weld but we don't have any decent shops in my area that I would trust to weld a stud in there. Might know someone who could though. Is that the only way to replace this? Weld a new stud on?

 

[Kosty23]

Sourced a friend who is good with a welder willing to do it. Going to take a remaining nut to the hardware store to try to source a replacement stud (and new nuts). Thanks

 

[JDG]

Sourced a friend who is good with a welder willing to do it. Going to take a remaining nut to the hardware store to try to source a replacement stud (and new nuts). Thanks

It’s metric, my first guess would be m8x1.0. The studs can be found on McMaster Carr if your local hardware store doesn’t have any.


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[scooter123]

I would suggest spending a bit of time using a Torque Wrench, some nuts and bolts with a steel plate, and both 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets learning how to develop a consistent amount of Torque with both ratchets. For example I know that with a standard old style Craftsman 3/8 ratchet I can produce a consistent 25-30 ft.lbs. of torque without strain using the hand grip. Grasp just the head and I will get 8-10 ft.lbs. Knowing that I can refer to the service manual torque and apply an appropriate amount of torque just by altering how I hold the ratchet.

Point is that with a 8mm stud you don't tighten it until it snaps, you put about 25 ft.lbs. on it and call it good until you check the service manual.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Yes, unless that stud was weakened from rust, or a metallurgic/grain structure imperfection, you are using WAY TOO MUCH torque/force if you snapped it off the car!

 

[Kosty23]

It’s metric, my first guess would be m8x1.0. The studs can be found on McMaster Carr if your local hardware store doesn’t have any.


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Nut was threading onto a m8x1.25 so that's what I went with. Wouldn't fit the m8x1.00

As for those stating I need to learn how to torque, accidents happen. It was late, and we got sloppy and used an impact on the wrong setting. That coupled with a rusty nut/stud made it snap.

I wasn't asking for advice on how to torque nuts or a lecture. I asked for advice on how to fix what was already broken to which no input was offered aside from JDG, who I thank.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Nut was threading onto a m8x1.25 so that's what I went with. Wouldn't fit the m8x1.00

As for those stating I need to learn how to torque, accidents happen. It was late, and we got sloppy and used an impact on the wrong setting. That coupled with a rusty nut/stud made it snap.

I wasn't asking for advice on how to torque nuts or a lecture. I asked for advice on how to fix what was already broken to which no input was offered aside from JDG, who I thank.

Sorry, I for one was NOT trying to 'lecture' you, just making sure that you understood about torque settings/etc. just in case you did not know.

I understand the late and mishap thing, having been guilty of it myself more than once, and YES, JDG is very knowledgable and helpful!

 

[Kosty23]

Sorry, I for one was NOT trying to 'lecture' you, just making sure that you understood about torque settings/etc. just in case you did not know.

I understand the late and mishap thing, having been guilty of it myself more than once, and YES, JDG is very knowledgable and helpful!

All good. I appreciate the advice but it doesn't help the problem now. Practicing isn't going to make my stud reattach to the car 😉.

 

[SerialBrain2]

can you drill it out and put a heli coil m8 x1.25 in there?

 

[Kosty23]

can you drill it out and put a heli coil m8 x1.25 in there?

Drilling it, tapping it, and sealing the crap out of the hole was an option I was contemplating but my last resort. Welding the new stud to it seems the best option.

 

[SerialBrain2]

welding it is kinda permanent is it not, i mean if it is currently frozen in there...

 

[Kosty23]

welding it is kinda permanent is it not, i mean if it is currently frozen in there...

There's only a shred of stud remaining. It sheared off. I'm talking about welding a new stud to the chassis to put a nut on, not welding the brace to the frame. Does that make more sense?

 

[SerialBrain2]

yes...makes perfect sense. That actually sounds like the correct path.

 

[kivnul]

my son snapped one stud installing his Thermal system as well (used an impact for some reason to put the nuts on), He has ran about 1 year so far with just the 3 studs with no noticeable effect.

 

[scooter123]

I expect that stud is either a resistance weld stud or it's a pressed in spline stud. Bad news is you'll have to pull the carpet and look to determine what type of stud you have. The proper way to repair this type of failure is to do just that. If you want to test to see if it's a pressed in stud you could take a punch and give it a good hard whack with a hammer. If it pops free you'll then know what type of stud you have. Following are links to the Press in Studs in Zinc plate and Stainless Steel

https://www.mcmaster.com/pem-style-fasteners/steel-press-fit-studs/thread-type~metric/thread-size~m8/

https://www.mcmaster.com/pem-style-...-fit-studs/thread-type~metric/thread-size~m8/

Note, both will have comparable strength but the stainless version costs more and won't rust. I'll also note that I grew up the next town over from Aurora, Ohio and have used McMaster Carr since I was a co-op student in Engineering in the late 70's, they are a superb supply house.

I've also supervised "repair technicians" since 1982 and have seen way to many mistakes like this. So, you got a lecture. While it often does no good at all when a "repair technician" brings me busted and expensive tools ruined by this kind of mistake they get a lecture. It's kinda become automatic.

 

[Kosty23]

For reference, anyone that ends up coming across this thread because they managed to do the same: JDG's method was what I ended up doing.

Friend of mine is a welder and fellow fiesta owner. He was willing to do it for the cost of a large coffee. Put the car back up, took the bracket off, shaved the stud flush and cleaned the metal. He welded a new stud I sourced at the store (had to cut to length). It was M8x1.25 threaded rod. Also replaced all 4 flange nuts with new ones and threw antiseize on it. I was running two days on just two studs and it was fine so I bet 3 studs wouldn't have mattered in the long run as the other person noted but it was driving me nuts.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yeah, 'fine' or not, that would have bothered me as well.

Glad it is taken care of now, good job!