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Motor oil

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Location
Stanwood, WA, USA
#1
I’m swapping in a PumaSpeed x47R turbo and I’m curious with the extra HP, heat and load being put on the motor. Do I continue using the oem Ford motor oil or do I switch to something else?
 


M-Sport fan

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#2
They (name brand, SAE/API/ACEA certified motor oils) are all pretty great nowadays, and you will get a trillion different answers/opinions on this topic.

But I personally, even still on the factory snail and tune, opted to go with a thinner (but slightly thicker than most 5W-20s out there), very premium 5W-30 (Ravenol DXG 5W-30).
 


haste

Senior Member
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Eastern
#4
They (name brand, SAE/API/ACEA certified motor oils) are all pretty great nowadays, and you will get a trillion different answers/opinions on this topic.

But I personally, even still on the factory snail and tune, opted to go with a thinner (but slightly thicker than most 5W-20s out there), very premium 5W-30 (Ravenol DXG 5W-30).
Wondering where you source it from? Are you actually able to find it locally or do you order online?
 


kivnul

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Deer Park, WA
#5
OEM Ford synthetic is made by Kendall and is a very good oil. If it has been working for you up to now, it will keep working just fine for you. As the above posters mentioned, going to a 5w30 is not a bad idea (and is what is used outside of the US.. I think we use the thinner stuff over here for either emissions or efficiency, not necessarily for the good of the life of the engine). I personally use Quaker state Ultimate Durability 5w30 and will probably swap to their regular synthetic when my supply runs out since I think the above is discontinued.
 


M-Sport fan

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#6
Wondering where you source it from? Are you actually able to find it locally or do you order online?
I buy it direct from the sole/exclusive North American importer, Blauparts in Wisconsin.

They run very frequent discount coupons/free shipping offers (and NOT just at holidays, but during the whole year) if you sign up on their site.

When I buy the DXG in the 5 liter jugs from them, I end up paying less per quart than what Wally's charges for their on the shelf quarts of major brand synthetics (but not less than their 5 quart jug prices, but also not all that much more, considering what you're getting for the price). [thumb]
 


Intuit

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#8
I dride until they can't be driden any more. Compression and cam lobes / buckets have been great across three motors, regardless of mileage. It ain't broke so ain't fix'n Castrol. Stock tune so not worried about LSPI, valve deposits.
 


M-Sport fan

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#10
^^^In our area, I would go with the their 5W-20 in the winter, and 5W-30 in the summer, that is IF you actually change it out twice a year. [dunno]
 


Messages
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Location
Cheshire
#11
OEM Ford synthetic is made by Kendall and is a very good oil. If it has been working for you up to now, it will keep working just fine for you. As the above posters mentioned, going to a 5w30 is not a bad idea (and is what is used outside of the US.. I think we use the thinner stuff over here for either emissions or efficiency, not necessarily for the good of the life of the engine). I personally use Quaker state Ultimate Durability 5w30 and will probably swap to their regular synthetic when my supply runs out since I think the above is discontinued.
Actually I got an oil change last week and they used Coastal synthetic blend 5w20. Not sure why they did not use the Kendall stuff.
 


Messages
54
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Location
WA, USA
#13
Do not stick with ford oem oil for the love of god. Find a 5/30 snplus rated motul, amsoil sig or pennzoil plat/ultra plat with a solid hths above 3.8 and a decent additive package. If you want to stick with the factory 5/20 recommendation, i strongly suggest reading the oil’s data sheet and making sure you find one with a hths above 3.5 and higher as well as a TBN of 11 and up.
 


M-Sport fan

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#15
Do not stick with ford oem oil for the love of god. Find a 5/30 snplus rated motul, amsoil sig or pennzoil plat/ultra plat with a solid hths above 3.8 and a decent additive package. If you want to stick with the factory 5/20 recommendation, i strongly suggest reading the oil’s data sheet and making sure you find one with a hths above 3.5 and higher as well as a TBN of 11 and up.
There are climates in this land where you would not want a 3.8 HTHSV, or even a 3.5 HTHSV in the winter time, and maybe not even a 3.8 in the summer, outside of the deep south/southwest, unless you are open tracking for multiple sessions per day, with an upgraded hybrid/big turbo.

Some on here are using a lighter 0W/5W-40 with an HTHSV of about 4.0 for the above conditions, especially without an aftermarket, air to oil cooler.

I sometimes use the Ravenol RSP 5W-30 with a 3.5 HTHSV for my summer OCI, and their straight DXG 5W-30 (~3.1 HTHSV) for the winter OCI.

I agree with the high starting TBN to combat/stave off the acids formed from moisture and fuel dilution. [thumb]

These high(er) starting TBNs are usually found in the 'EP' (extended protection) labeled major brand oils found on the Wal Mart shelf, if one does not want to bother with the more costly/mail order 'boutique' type oils like Ravenol or Amsoil Signature Series.

But ONLY if the oil gets there without using a big calcium content in the additive/detergent pack, and instead uses boron, magnesium, and possibly a titanium compound as a substitute, in order to avoid the LSPI problems exacerbated by big sulfated ash oil levels in turbo direct injection engines. [wink]
 


Last edited:

jmrtsus

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#16
Kendall GT 1 MAX.......the original Titanium, copied by most now.
 


FORZDA 2

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Messages
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Location
Gloucester, VA
#18
I'd get a quality full synthetic oil in a 5w30 weight that is SN plus rated. The SN plus is supposed to keep LPSI at bay.

https://team.valvoline.com/diy/maintenance/what-you-need-know-about-low-speed-pre-ignition-lspi
Yeah, the SN Plus are good and were used while the SP rating was established. The BEST oil for Turbo Direct Injection engines is the newest SP rated oils. The brand doesn't matter as long as it is 5w30 synthetic SP oil.
 


Intuit

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South West Ohio
#19
Hear any extra valve clatter on cold start? Your oil is too heavy or/and not clingy enough. Mix-in a lighter weight. Extra valve clatter at hot temperatures means you need more heavier weight oil. The ears see what the eyes cannot.

EDIT: Fuel injected vehicles have a feature for clearing an engine flood. I take advantage of that for start following an oil change or lengthy sit. Hold accelerator before beginning, and during the engine crank. That shuts off the fuel injectors but keeps cranking. That eliminates the brief moment of valve clatter following an oil change.
 


Messages
54
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35
Location
WA, USA
#20
There are climates in this land where you would not want a 3.8 HTHSV, or even a 3.5 HTHSV in the winter time, and maybe not even a 3.8 in the summer, outside of the deep south/southwest, unless you are open tracking for multiple sessions per day, with an upgraded hybrid/big turbo.

Some on here are using a lighter 0W/5W-40 with an HTHSV of about 4.0 for the above conditions, especially without an aftermarket, air to oil cooler.

I sometimes use the Ravenol RSP 5W-30 with a 3.5 HTHSV for my summer OCI, and their straight DXG 5W-30 (~3.1 HTHSV) for the winter OCI.

I agree with the high starting TBN to combat/stave off the acids formed from moisture and fuel dilution. [thumb]

These high(er) starting TBNs are usually found in the 'EP' (extended protection) labeled major brand oils found on the Wal Mart shelf, if one does not want to bother with the more costly/mail order 'boutique' type oils like Ravenol or Amsoil Signature Series.

But ONLY if the oil gets there without using a big calcium content in the additive/detergent pack, and instead uses boron, magnesium, and possibly a titanium compound as a substitute, in order to avoid the LSPI problems exacerbated by big sulfated ash oil levels in turbo direct injection engines. [wink]
Well to each their own, choose ya poison. Ive personally had spectacular results when paying attention to the HTHS and the TBN in all my turbo cars, albeit this is my first DI turbo so its my least knowledgeable configuration. Still learning:)

From what i understand as long as the kinematic Vi is reasonable, then swing away with a slightly above normal hths to combat pushing the car hard weekly, hybrid/BT or not. I use a s280 and i dont know if i consider it BT but it is bigger than stock lol

ya i dont mess with “extended mileage” oils, mostly “boutique” as you would put it lol.

yeaup stay away from a saps

i run e40 yearly and a high TBN helps with the aforementioned fuel dilution/moisture accumulation.

How does the raven look after an “extended” oci like say maybe 6/10k? Dont think I’ve seen too many UOA’s personally but not denying they are out there.

I am pretty skeptical of Ti compounds in my oil, I’m a fan of a nice amount of moly when it comes to the additives.
 




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