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Mountune springs installed

Messages
128
Likes
41
Location
Noneya
#1
I was originally going to update my thread about handling that spawned this purchase, but I figured this would bring more visibility for anyone interested in the experience. So yeah, I got the springs installed. Few things of importance to note for anyone that might be interested in swapping their own springs:

1. If you don't have an impact gun, you NEED a passthrough ratchet to get the upper strut nut off. I suppose you could get creative, or maybe use an offset wrench if it's a deep offset, but a passthrough ratchet makes life so much easier.

2. Be very, very mindful of the wrench you use when tightening the sway bar end link nut. I decided to use a ratcheting wrench to make life "easier" since you have to hold the stud in place with a hex key and while the wrench fit on the nut without issue initial because of the side to side play the stud has when it's loose, it did NOT come back off. Why? Well when you tighten the nut down and the end link stud doesn't move anymore, the wrench was literally sandwiched between the strut tube, the mounting bracket and because of the depth of the nut I couldn't physically get the wrench off. I had to literally cut it off... Wasn't the end of the world, but it did suck and now I'm down a 15mm ratcheting wrench :D.

3. While it may seem like more work, I recommend removing the cowl at the base of the windshield. This allows you to get proper access to the nuts on the top of the strut tower. You absolutely can get to them without doing this, but the back one is a pain in the ass, especially on the driver's side, and if you care about using a torque wrench when you put it all back together you will need to remove the cowl since no torque wrench + socket is going to fit in there if you don't. Removing the cowl is not hard, just be mindful not to lose the clips that hold it down and I also recommend using a proper puller for getting the windshield wiper arms off. Some wiper arms release by lifting the arm and removing the tension but these bastards are really pressed on there and you can either fight with them for 10 minutes, potentially breaking stuff, or use a small puller and have them off in 20 seconds. You have to lift out the headlights as well, but that isn't very difficult at all, though it is a little annoying getting them back in place.

4. The rear is super easy if you release both shock bolts and support the torsion beam with a jack in the middle. Lower it down slowly until the jack stops physically supporting the beam and then give the jack like half a pump to take the tiniest bit of pressure off everything. Doing this allows you to push the beam down a bit more on either side and the stock springs pretty much fall out. It also makes it super easy to get the new ones in and aligned properly with the lower cap and the upper mount.

Impressions... initial drop is nice. I expect more settling to take place, but there is definitely a difference and I'm digging the reduced wheel gap. I really look forward to putting my summer wheels/tires on for that meaty tire look w/ minimal gap. As far as the important thing, performance, is concerned, I don't have an indepth review just yet. I took the car for a ~10 mile ride after installing them to test for noises or other oddities and had no problems - no clunks or rattles, no weird vibrations, and while I know I need an alignment it probably isn't that far out because the steering wheel is just as straight as it was before starting (I absolutely know that doesn't guarantee a proper alignment, I'm just saying it didn't send things so far out that my steering wheel sits at a 90). The roads in my town pretty much suck and while we don't have a lot of giant potholes, they are just rough and bumpy and the ride so far is no worse than stock. I haven't driven enough to say it's better, but it might be a bit. I took a few corners and the car does feel flatter and more planted and that's what I was looking for so I'm happy there. Turn in doesn't seem to have suffered much if at all, though I haven't had enough time to properly test.

Measurements from the bottom of the center cap (stock wheels) straight up to the bottom of the fender in my very not-level driveway.

LF - 13 & 7/8"
LR - 13.5"
RF - 13 & 7/8"
RR - 13.75"

I will continue to measure over the next couple weeks to see what it ends up after more settling (I stupidly didn't measure before...), as well as performance impressions. I will also get some pictures that don't suck eventually.

Before:





After:



 


Messages
454
Likes
151
Location
Kelso
#2
The settling will take time. The installer measured about 1/2" drop at the time of the install, but I can SEE that it's gone down since then. That tire gap WILL get smaller, and the top of the car easier to wash.
 


Izzy

Active member
Messages
606
Likes
129
Location
Houston
#3
Mine took weeks before I could really say they had settled.
 


OP
IrishST
Messages
128
Likes
41
Location
Noneya
Thread Starter #4
Yeah, I definitely expect more settling to happen. Even without the car definitely looks better. Went for another drive today and I definitely think it rides better now. Bumps don't feel as harsh and there is less of a jittery feel on rough roads. Hit a few on ramps too and I can absolutely say there is less roll, though I think I might still add a rear torsion bar, not sure yet. No understeer to speak of in my limited testing and the car seems just as happy to pivot, if not more so.

They may not match linear rate springs or proper coils, but I'm definitely impressed and highly recommend them to anyone interested based on my initial impressions.
 


Messages
127
Likes
34
Location
Prince George
#5
Thanks for the writeup. I've got a set sitting at home for the spring. Appreciate you taking the time to post this.
 


OP
IrishST
Messages
128
Likes
41
Location
Noneya
Thread Starter #6
Thanks for the writeup. I've got a set sitting at home for the spring. Appreciate you taking the time to post this.
No problem, happy to help others with my experiences. I'm liking the springs so far so I think you'll be pleased when you put them on.
 


Messages
127
Likes
34
Location
Prince George
#7
No problem, happy to help others with my experiences. I'm liking the springs so far so I think you'll be pleased when you put them on.
And I think YOU'LL be very pleased with the mountune roll resistor - installed mine last fall. Loved the new feel that brought. I see in your sig you've yet to install.
 


OP
IrishST
Messages
128
Likes
41
Location
Noneya
Thread Starter #8
Yeah, I'm excited to put it on. The question is probably - "why didn't you just do it while doing the springs?". I really wanted to, and it was hard not to, but I didn't want to install two new parts that impact NVH at the same time just in case I run into issues. I wanted to get the springs on first since that is the more involved of the two and give it some drive time to make sure all was well. Now that I know all is well I'm going to just roll it up on some ramps and do the RMM. While I had it on the stands I decided to tighten all my hose clamps (most were loose... not finger loose, but loose...) and got a good look at the stock RMM so it looks like this will be a cake walk install.
 


Messages
55
Likes
17
Location
Audubon
#9
Thanks for posting this, great info! I'm about to pull the trigger on buying a set, still debating if I'll do the install myself.
 


Messages
39
Likes
7
Location
Aberdeen
#10
Got a great deal on the Mountune full IC upgrade and sport springs. They arrived last week and as soon as the weather breaks I have no problem with the IC install. It looks easy enough and looking forward to it. The springs will have to be installed by a shop. What kind of charge will most shops charge for the install? What is a reasonable price? I've had shops try to rip me off for installs that I ended up doing myself. Definitely won't be able to do the shocks.
 


LilPartyBox

1000 Post Club
Messages
1,083
Likes
318
Location
NYC
#11
If you can do an IC you can do a spring install. It's not much more involved, just different. You'll have to borrow a spring compressor from ur local auto zone or whatever. I HOPE to do a write up next weekend when I install my setup if you can wait...
 


stuntdoogie

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,203
Likes
166
Location
NYC
#14
I was originally going to update my thread about handling that spawned this purchase, but I figured this would bring more visibility for anyone interested in the experience. So yeah, I got the springs installed. Few things of importance to note for anyone that might be interested in swapping their own springs:

1. If you don't have an impact gun, you NEED a passthrough ratchet to get the upper strut nut off. I suppose you could get creative, or maybe use an offset wrench if it's a deep offset, but a passthrough ratchet makes life so much easier.

2. Be very, very mindful of the wrench you use when tightening the sway bar end link nut. I decided to use a ratcheting wrench to make life "easier" since you have to hold the stud in place with a hex key and while the wrench fit on the nut without issue initial because of the side to side play the stud has when it's loose, it did NOT come back off. Why? Well when you tighten the nut down and the end link stud doesn't move anymore, the wrench was literally sandwiched between the strut tube, the mounting bracket and because of the depth of the nut I couldn't physically get the wrench off. I had to literally cut it off... Wasn't the end of the world, but it did suck and now I'm down a 15mm ratcheting wrench :D.

3. While it may seem like more work, I recommend removing the cowl at the base of the windshield. This allows you to get proper access to the nuts on the top of the strut tower. You absolutely can get to them without doing this, but the back one is a pain in the ass, especially on the driver's side, and if you care about using a torque wrench when you put it all back together you will need to remove the cowl since no torque wrench + socket is going to fit in there if you don't. Removing the cowl is not hard, just be mindful not to lose the clips that hold it down and I also recommend using a proper puller for getting the windshield wiper arms off. Some wiper arms release by lifting the arm and removing the tension but these bastards are really pressed on there and you can either fight with them for 10 minutes, potentially breaking stuff, or use a small puller and have them off in 20 seconds. You have to lift out the headlights as well, but that isn't very difficult at all, though it is a little annoying getting them back in place.

4. The rear is super easy if you release both shock bolts and support the torsion beam with a jack in the middle. Lower it down slowly until the jack stops physically supporting the beam and then give the jack like half a pump to take the tiniest bit of pressure off everything. Doing this allows you to push the beam down a bit more on either side and the stock springs pretty much fall out. It also makes it super easy to get the new ones in and aligned properly with the lower cap and the upper mount.

Impressions... initial drop is nice. I expect more settling to take place, but there is definitely a difference and I'm digging the reduced wheel gap. I really look forward to putting my summer wheels/tires on for that meaty tire look w/ minimal gap. As far as the important thing, performance, is concerned, I don't have an indepth review just yet. I took the car for a ~10 mile ride after installing them to test for noises or other oddities and had no problems - no clunks or rattles, no weird vibrations, and while I know I need an alignment it probably isn't that far out because the steering wheel is just as straight as it was before starting (I absolutely know that doesn't guarantee a proper alignment, I'm just saying it didn't send things so far out that my steering wheel sits at a 90). The roads in my town pretty much suck and while we don't have a lot of giant potholes, they are just rough and bumpy and the ride so far is no worse than stock. I haven't driven enough to say it's better, but it might be a bit. I took a few corners and the car does feel flatter and more planted and that's what I was looking for so I'm happy there. Turn in doesn't seem to have suffered much if at all, though I haven't had enough time to properly test.

Measurements from the bottom of the center cap (stock wheels) straight up to the bottom of the fender in my very not-level driveway.

LF - 13 & 7/8"
LR - 13.5"
RF - 13 & 7/8"
RR - 13.75"

I will continue to measure over the next couple weeks to see what it ends up after more settling (I stupidly didn't measure before...), as well as performance impressions. I will also get some pictures that don't suck eventually.

Before:





After:



Did your rears ever even out or is the right rear still 1/4" higher than the Left rear?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 


Kookoo230

New Member
Messages
2
Likes
1
Location
OAKDALE
#15
Did your rears ever even out or is the right rear still 1/4" higher than the Left rear?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
My right rear has the same problem. I've had the springs on for just about 2 weeks now and still not as low as the left side.
 


Messages
71
Likes
9
Location
San Diego
#16
thinking of getting the mountune springs + b8 package and was just looking for "long-term" reviews.

also could the left to rear difference be affected by the gas tank being on the left side or is that just common?

currently have bc coilovers and idk just not happy with it no matter what i do w/ preload + dampening settings
 


Messages
454
Likes
151
Location
Kelso
#17
I've had the mountune springs on for about 50.000 miles. They did drop more over a couple of months for me. Your car will sit lower later if mine and your pictures are any indication. They said the springs work fine with stock shocks and that's true, but I finally pulled the trigger for a set of the b8s and they are sitting in the floor now awaiting install.

For anyone on the fence, the mountune springs are a joy. The ride is smoother while at the same time the turns are flatter and the turn in is fantastic. I can hardly wait for my stock shocks to wear out!

YMMV
My 2 ¢
 


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