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Muteki lug nut torque?

M-Sport fan

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#1
I bought a set of the Muteki SR 35 lugs, and in the package it states 80 lb. ft. as the MAX allowed torque.

Does everyone on here who has the SR series lugs torque them to the factory 100 lb. ft. setting, or is their wall thickness just way too thin (despite being made of forged steel), and therefore stop at 80 lb. ft.? [???:)]

Thanks in advance,

Dave H.
 


Capri to ST

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#2
Interesting question, I was thinking about getting some of these for my ST. I have them on my other car and like them, but its torque spec just happens to be 80 ft lbs. so this issue didn't arise.
 


BRGT350

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wonder if the coating has a different coefficient of friction meaning clamp load is achieved with 80 ft-lbs. I have worked on different nut and bolt coatings that altered the torque value, yet the clamp load stayed the same.
 


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#8
wonder if the coating has a different coefficient of friction meaning clamp load is achieved with 80 ft-lbs. I have worked on different nut and bolt coatings that altered the torque value, yet the clamp load stayed the same.
Just outa curiosity, why would there be a coating on the threads of a lugnut? Especially a value branded setup as a Muteki is. I know throwing shmoo(anti-sieze, wd-40, etc) on the threads alters the clamping force significantly, but every nut that I've fondled from an aftermarket has been the same as OE on the threads.(anodized or similar)
 


BRGT350

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#9
without a coating, the material would oxidize and corrode. Fasteners are coated with all sorts of stuff to prevent this from happening. Dacromet, Geomet, zinc, phosphorous and oil, nickel, anodize, chromate (if it is old, nobody uses that anymore), and about a dozen of other types of coatings that are designed to slow or prevent oxidation. Each one of them has a different coefficient of friction, which needs to be accounted for when applying torque. Adding any lubricant will reduce the torque needed since the installation torque is less to achieve the same clamp load. In other words, it is easier to turn the nut so more force is going into tightening the joint instead of turning the nut. There are a number of factors that go into clamp load, including the coefficient of friction of the nut and bolt coating, if a washer is present, the coefficient of friction of the washer, the coefficient of friction of the mating surface, type of thread, any lubricants applied, and general condition of the threads. The theory behind a bolted connection is to put enough clamp load into the joint that the bolt stretches and is in tension.
 


OP
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M-Sport fan

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Thread Starter #10
^^^They supposedly are anodized (I got the 'titanium chrome' finish), but hard to tell if it is also on the threads as well.

It is DEFINITELY on the 'taper cone' portion of the nut, and I'm guessing that this also factors into the torque values somewhat (along with whether or not the wheel's seats themselves are painted or not?), albeit not as critically as the actual threads must. [dunno]
 


BRGT350

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^^^They supposedly are anodized (I got the 'titanium chrome' finish), but hard to tell if it is also on the threads as well.

It is DEFINITELY on the 'taper cone' portion of the nut, and I'm guessing that this also factors into the torque values somewhat (along with whether or not the wheel's seats themselves are painted or not?), albeit not as critically as the actual threads must. [dunno]
yes, the surface condition of whatever the nut contacts plays a big role. That could be a washer, painted surface, conical surface (like wheels), and about anything else.
 


HardBoiledEgg

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#13
Just a PSA. I have these and TQ my luvs everytime. One blew out the threads and got stuck on my ARP extended studs. I've been TQ to 100lbs since I got them. Never broken loose with a gun and ALWAYS hand TQ.

I have since went down to 85lbs but will he changing lug nuts cause I paid way too much on these for this garbage
 




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