New Oil Specifications

[Intuit]

Not a BITOG thread. 😉

Interesting article.

https://www.underhoodservice.com/new-oil-specifications/



Full article has a lot more detail. Just commenting on a couple of excerpts...

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<< IS HEAVIER BETTER?​

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If you are concerned that lighter oils offer less protection, you have to realize that engines have changed. Most new engines feature an oil pump that can deal with these lighter-weight oils.​

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Variable-displacement oil pumps can deliver the correct volume and pressure using lighter-weight oils and create less drag on the engine. These pumps are far more sophisticated and are often electronically controlled. Even if that does not change your mind, consider the variable valve timing actuators. If the oil is not the right viscosity, it can cause sluggish performance of the actuators that can cause codes and driveability problems.>>​

Wow, an electronically controlled oil pump? I wonder if it merely has servo that adjusts the diameter of the orifice exiting the pump? (like a water hose) Oil pumps are so critical though, we want them to be simple... generally meaning there is no way for them to malfunction. If the oil pump has transitioned from a mechanical to electric pump (or hybrid), priming the engine before start can be automated; drastically improving life span. (majority of wear is said to occur with cold starts)

<<........ designed to increase engine efficiency and reduce engine warmup time. ..................... Both owner’s manuals and service information say that 0W16 is the best choice for fuel economy and cold-weather starting. ...............>>​

Right, thinner/lighter oil is better for cold starts, warm ups, but wouldn't the heavier stuff still be optimal for harder driving in warmer weather?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yes, at least slightly heavier (to even up to one of the lighter 0W/5W-40 weights IF one is NOT using a good air to oil cooler) is better for the minuscule percent of the populace who open track their rides in torrid temps.
Which ends up thinning out/heat shearing their oil's viscosity back to (or possibly even under) the manufacturers' suggested viscosity at 'normal' operating temps for 99.999999% of the driving public (who care much more about the even infinitesimal gains in fuel mileage these can bring about, and never drive with ANY stresses on the engine at all, i.e.; point A to point B 'appliance drivers').

Do I personally think that WE can safely (as per our VVT system, etc.) 'get away with' using one of the thinner (by HTHSV rating, and this does NOT include the VERY thick, 'regular' Red Line 3W-30 @ a 3.8 HTHSV!) 5W-30s (like a 2.9 to maybe a 3.3 HTHSV, vs. the factory 5W-20's ~2.6 to 2.9 HTHSV) out there, for 'harder' street/canyon carving use, especially in the summer, or in consistently hotter climate areas?
ABSOLUTELY!

 

[Intuit]

As long as it's not so thick that there's lifter clatter on startup, I'm not convinced of getting the thinner stuff over factory spec. Wonder whether they're running additional oil pressure to compensate for the lower viscosities? Used conventional mineral oil with my '94 engine. Switched to synthetic... actually I think it was a part-synthetic oil. Had the same numbers on the bottle but noticed the oil was a lot more watery, thinner; typical of synthetics of the time. I immediately noticed that it had a quicker throttle response and more power/torque. Really did like that BUT, because the engine was generally much 'louder' I quickly switched back. I equate the additional loudness with faster engine wear. The gap tolerances on that engine would've been much larger and didn't have any indication that shear was occurring, but I preferred to play it safe versus "wait and see".

 

[WannabeST]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDGnAxK76qY


^ This is a pretty good video on oil and horsepower.
Personally I run 5w30 or 5w40 in my car. My car sees lots of abuse mechanically. The car actually does feel slightly sluggish on cold starts at first. But once it's up to temp it feels fine. I am probably still losing maybe 2-3hp but I would 100% rather have the protection. Especially with no oil pan baffles or oil psi gauge.

 

[M-Sport fan]

As stated above; IF using a good/efficient aftermarket oil cooler, you can run a less viscous (FULL SYNTHETIC) oil, to a point, and IF the build clearances dictate such, and take advantage of the slight power gains from lower windage/flow/oil pumping losses

I still would not run a 0W-16 or 0W-20) on the track though, unless it was a one or two lap time trial, maybe.