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Rear seat delete

Siestarider

Senior Member
Messages
988
Likes
292
Location
Stuart
#1
This was my first mod, but not seeing any like it on the forum, thought I would share.

Loosing weight was a goal, bit a functional rear bed was #1 consideration, I sold my 4x4 Grand Cherokee and need hauling capacity.

Found a fiberglass/foam composite called Thermo-Ply, 1/2 " thickness at 30 lbs/cf density (marine supply) and used most of one 4 x 8 sheet. Its built in two sections and press fit, no fasteners.
Glued pieces together with PL5200, then added a little glass and epoxy resin underneath to reinforce joints.

Completely removable in 3 minutes. Piano hinge cover over spare tire compartment for secure storage (I carry a few tools, bungees and cargo net, tire repair kit) but lots of room left,

Front section weighs 20 lbs, rear section 13 lbs, center support and custom waterproof mat 3 lbs more. Carpet patches velcro attached at sides. Carbon trim on top edge is structural, side panel veneer just for looks.

101_1985.jpg 101_1982.jpg 101_1978.jpg 101_1977.jpg 101_1975.jpg 101_1976.jpg 101_1980.jpg 101_1989.jpg
 


Messages
131
Likes
8
Location
Albany
#2
Any intention on making more of these?? Looks awesome, first setup I've seen that looks clean/finished when installed.
 


OP
S

Siestarider

Senior Member
Messages
988
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292
Location
Stuart
Thread Starter #4
No plans to build more, it took a while to make it. Nothing difficult, just time figuring out how and then fitting it tight. So this is one way. I have hauled 300 lbs of salt in bed, no problems.

I had fun looking at all the composite options out there, some lighter but really costly, some better in tension than compression, etc. Best thing about this job is it cut road noise significantly from stock rear seats, Thermo-Ply really helps.

Next mod I made (last year) was going to 16x7 OZ wheels with BFG Sport Comp tires. That further cut road noise and ride harshness, added just the right amount of compliance for me.

Tomorrow I am removing my MBRP exhaust, love the idle but not stealthy enough for me, and putting stock back on. Will be interesting to log a 3rd gear pull and see if I loose anything but sound.
 


OP
S

Siestarider

Senior Member
Messages
988
Likes
292
Location
Stuart
Thread Starter #6
I agree, wore google out looking for one before biting the bullet.

Maybe someone will take the idea and run with it. Even a pre-cut kit would be handier than going from scratch.

Grandkids disturbed by sudden loss of rear seats got the idea it was so I could take a nap in the back. Hence siestarider.
 


OP
S

Siestarider

Senior Member
Messages
988
Likes
292
Location
Stuart
Thread Starter #9
My recollection is that rear seats, belts and panels weighted around 65 lbs. So net weight saved was about 30 lbs. I drove it around for a month with nothing at all back there, that was a little noisy for me.

I agree its a little heavy, but I needed a strong and rigid platform for hauling, and wanted a nice fit and finish. On a road trip to mountains last fall to hoon around I slept one night on it, surprisingly well, but I had a sleeping bag and pillow with me for emergencies. 6'/190, I am not small.
 


Messages
269
Likes
48
Location
Grass Lake
#10
the user determines the type and contruction of a subfloor...

It would be very difficult to create a kit that would satisfy all people. Some want expanded cargo space that will carry heavier items. Others want to just make a larger space for light cargo because they don't need a rear seat. Some others only need a very light and strong subfloor to cover the bare floorboard and wire harnesses that will also deaden sound a bit. My subfloor is a high strength and light weight, two section design that has a limiter bar at the front with LED's built into it to provide illumination when the doors or hatch is opened. I also opted to use some dead space below the front section for a hidden stowage compartment on the right and a Superflow onboard air compressor secured under the subfloor on the left side. I am currently trying to figure out a simpler method of attaching the front floor section to the floorpan. I set a weight target for the whole subfloor of no more than 11 pounds. It is not designed to haul engine blocks, but it will hold four autocross tires and an alumninum jack.
 


PhoenixM3

Senior Member
Messages
806
Likes
510
Location
Colorado Springs
#12
It would be very difficult to create a kit that would satisfy all people. Some want expanded cargo space that will carry heavier items. Others want to just make a larger space for light cargo because they don't need a rear seat. Some others only need a very light and strong subfloor to cover the bare floorboard and wire harnesses that will also deaden sound a bit. My subfloor is a high strength and light weight, two section design that has a limiter bar at the front with LED's built into it to provide illumination when the doors or hatch is opened. I also opted to use some dead space below the front section for a hidden stowage compartment on the right and a Superflow onboard air compressor secured under the subfloor on the left side. I am currently trying to figure out a simpler method of attaching the front floor section to the floorpan. I set a weight target for the whole subfloor of no more than 11 pounds. It is not designed to haul engine blocks, but it will hold four autocross tires and an alumninum jack.
Photos please!
 


Messages
269
Likes
48
Location
Grass Lake
#13
I posted some in process images on www. flicker/Speedsmithscott.com. the final version has an aluminum frame and cargo limiter bar with LED's. I also kept the drilled and chamfered aluminum anti abrasion strips. They actually do double duty by adding some rigidity, hiding the attachment points and they just look purposeful and cool! These pics are from a couple years ago. The final version had very little wood in it, but was covered in the same grey carpeting as the mockup part pictured.
 


Messages
106
Likes
22
Location
Lawrence
#14
This was my first mod, but not seeing any like it on the forum, thought I would share.

Loosing weight was a goal, bit a functional rear bed was #1 consideration, I sold my 4x4 Grand Cherokee and need hauling capacity.

Found a fiberglass/foam composite called Thermo-Ply, 1/2 " thickness at 30 lbs/cf density (marine supply) and used most of one 4 x 8 sheet. Its built in two sections and press fit, no fasteners.
Glued pieces together with PL5200, then added a little glass and epoxy resin underneath to reinforce joints.

Completely removable in 3 minutes. Piano hinge cover over spare tire compartment for secure storage (I carry a few tools, bungees and cargo net, tire repair kit) but lots of room left,

Front section weighs 20 lbs, rear section 13 lbs, center support and custom waterproof mat 3 lbs more. Carpet patches velcro attached at sides. Carbon trim on top edge is structural, side panel veneer just for looks.

View attachment 2104 View attachment 2105 View attachment 2106 View attachment 2107 View attachment 2108 View attachment 2109 View attachment 2110 View attachment 2111
Wanted to bring this back from the dead and see how this is holding up? I did a half seat delete so I can still get my kiddos booster back there and want to build a similar setup. Very impressive BTW.
 


OP
S

Siestarider

Senior Member
Messages
988
Likes
292
Location
Stuart
Thread Starter #15
No issues at all, it has held up fine. The velcro carpet "patches" over wheel well bulges come loose a little to easily, I should probably just glue them in, but they are cosmetic only, so not a priority.
 


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