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Replaced battery, won’t start, no power.

the duke

Senior Member
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Location
Cleveland
#1
Original 2014 battery. Pulled it and replaced it with a Duralast Gold, manufacturer date 2017. Swapped the battery in and There is nothing going to the car. Ended up checking connections, pulled the terminals and ground and cleaned them with sandpaper and alcohol. Reinstalled and still nothing.

I’m at a loss. I hooked up my Battery Tender thinking the battery is just low/ needs a charge but it doesn’t seem to do much. There is a minor click near the turbo and the battery tender quickly disconnects (red light shuts off) and then returns to full red (charging). This click is about every 2 seconds and the Battery Tender momentarily switching off is in direct sync. I also checked the fuses in the engine bay any they seemed correct. Haven’t checked there battery with a multimeter but I don’t think the battery is that dead.


ideas? I’m stumped
 


Ralf

Member
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Stoney Creek
#2
I would make sure that battery is fully charged and go from there. When my battery was dying I was getting clicking noise. Hopefully that's your problem as well.
 


Messages
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364
Location
Maine
#3
You bought a new battery that was from 2017? Return that and go get one within the last few months. Batteries now a days are rated for 3-5 years from date of manufacture for warranty, if that battery has been sitting for that long, its probably dried out. The battery I replaced from 2014 was solid and dried out, the new one was sloshy and you could hear the acid was full.
 


OP
T

the duke

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Thread Starter #4
That’s my thoughts as well. It was the only one they had unfortunately.
 


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364
Location
Maine
#5
Bull crap. Tell them you want your money back and new battery. If they are not cycling batteries then you need to shop elsewhere.
 


PunkST

2000 Post Club
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Menasha
#6
Do you have a jump box?. See if it starts on a jump box.
 


haste

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Eastern
#8
Got a batteries plus nearby? I got a good deal on a duracell(deka) with a 2 year warranty. they have a 10% off code going on right now.
 


OP
T

the duke

Senior Member
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Location
Cleveland
Thread Starter #9
It’s 8pm on a Sunday. I’ll deal with it tomorrow. I was planning on taking the GSXR to work tomorrow anyways. I’ll deal with it after.
Better get this shut done by Saturday, got a track day and time trial all weekend.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Premium Account
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Rich-fizzield
#11
Just be like the Discount Tire old lady....Throw that Mafacka right through the front window and tell them you arent satisfied. That thing is shit....pure shit. Get your Skrilla back and go to advanced and buy their AGM battery and never look back.


Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 


M-Sport fan

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Princeton, N.J.
#13
I believe that he has an oversized (but still fits) Delco AGM he got on an extreme discount.
The AA AGM is the quick way to get an AGM in our exact size (IF they have it in stock), but the Odyssey 96R-600 is LESS COIN (and no shipping charges from Summit Racing, and no core charge at all) than the AA one, and possibly higher quality.
 


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Simi Valley, CA, USA
#18

M-Sport fan

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#19
Actually, no, for a given equal to a factory flooded lead acid batteries' set of CCA, reserve minutes, etc. specs they can be heavier than the OEM Motorcraft.

The lower power AGMs (Odyssey race series, Braille, Deka motorcycle, etc.) which people on here use for summer only/track/warm climate FiSTs are MUCH lighter than the factory flooded lead acid batteries, but you give away A LOT of cold cranking amps, reserve capacity, etc. with those options, if you need them.

My 96R-600 Odyssey is a bit heavier than the Motorcraft it replaced, but I am willing to sacrifice that weight (yes, even on the front of the car, where it does not need any more weight at all for balance reasons) for all of the benefits of an AGM.

Most especially the lack of ANY possibility of corrosive leakage out of it onto the underhood unibody parts (as well as none onto the posts, and terminals/cables/fuses/etc. there), given just how much rust LOVES to devour these cars. [wink] [:(]
 




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