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Right front brake locked

Messages
18
Likes
2
Location
Huntington
#1
Hey everybody,

So I went to replace my front pads and rotors last weekend, it went smoothly until i went for the test drive. The right front brake wouldnt let go. I got home and tried to push the piston of the caliper in, it got stuck halfway through. I figured i had a bad caliper so i ordered a new one. Installed the new one today with a new brake line. I tried bleeding it but fluid would only dribble out when i put vacuum on it. Took it for a test drive and the same thing happened. I didn't notice any damage to the lines. Anybody have info on how to figure out if its the master or abs pump? Or anybody have something similar happen to them?

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OP
D
Messages
18
Likes
2
Location
Huntington
Thread Starter #2
Alright so i checked with Forscan and it didnt have any problems. I pulled up on my pedal and it released the brake. Their are 2 switches connected to the brake pedal one blue and one black. Unplugging the black one released the brake. I dont understand why or what this switch is specifically for but i guess im going to order a new one and see if that solves the problem

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slopoke

Active member
Messages
643
Likes
633
Location
Livermore
#4
Just spit balling, but maybe, it's got to do something with the "Hill Assist" function? I sold my factory service manual, when I sold my ST. So I can't research the wire print for you. Good luck.
 


TyphoonFiST

9000 Post Club
Premium Account
Messages
11,495
Likes
7,986
Location
Rich-fizzield
#5
People have had this issue before and they pulled the brake pedal back and it unlocked the Wheels* There were a couple threads on this on the Forum also*
 


Messages
166
Likes
147
Location
DFW
#6
As one of those people who posted about locked brakes more than once:

Check your brake pedal and make sure the arm is hitting both switches at the same time. I had a spacer that would bring the throttle pedal plug into contact with that arm at the very bottom of the brake pedal travel (usually when bleeding), and would bend over time and gave me grief for years.

If the arm isn't bent, just replace the switch. I broke the other switch (blue "cruise control" switch) at least 3 times, and that black switch at least once. I would see a code for "unexpected" or "improbable" values for pedal switch or something, I don't remember. The Cobb Accessport or a high-end code reader were what I used to see those, but FORscam should as well I just don't know where in the software I'd need to look.

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