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Rough/Stuttering Idle

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78
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6
#1
I know i just came to guys for the coolant leak issue, please bear with be because I now have another concern.

So I just gotten my car back form the dealer who sold it to be to have the water pump changed. Ever since I got back it in the car it really didn’t feel right. The car is idling somewhat strangely and the car starts a little rough, the rpm stutter a bit before the steadying out.

Not only that the idle seems to be a little low as well, 600-700rpm at times. The exhaust is doesn’t sound the same either now it’s a deep pulsing note. I can only imagine because of the low idle.

A few times today the car on idle in neutral would sit at low idle and the car with blip on its own to 1200rpm a few times and come back down on it own. The last time it happened all I did was push in the clutch to get into gear. Speaking off the clutch I understand that pressing it down will drop the rpm a bit, but since the rpm is so low it comes down to almost 500rpm, I feel the car about to stall.

Another thing is the synopsper sound like it’s rustling almost on load when I tried the do a pull. Maybe a vacuum leak but would that toss a code. It feels at little sluggish when building boost, but it’s just a feeling. I cant say for sure if Im losing boost. But cruising at the speed limit everything is normal and no overheating issues thus far.

I can’t imagine the car acting like this without my knowledge before I had then water pump changed, I surely going to take it back again and ask why it is acting so odd. But I want to understand the issue at the same time.

I really had two things in mind as to what it might be and like know what you guys think.

1. Even though the water pump job is often routine maintenance and it done often at most shop, I cant say much for the shop the dealership uses. Could they have messed up the timing at all when changing the water pump. I might be stretching but is that possible.

2. Much more likely perhaps the battery was disconnected when doing the water pump, only seem like a natural precaution. And maybe that reset the ecu and the car is relearning the idle like some cars do. This seems more likely, just not sure if a disconnecting the battery could cause the ecu to reset, I figured that usually only happens when the battery is changed.

Not sure what to make you this, I would think the throttle body dirty or something but how could it just get so dirty in a matter of a day.

The car isn’t new, it has 75000km(45000miles); it’s still relatively mint, i can’t imagine it being a lemon. Considering it was form a big GM dealership, I assume they wouldnt be dumb enough to take a lemon car as a trade in, let alone sell it to me. They have already put in roughy $1500 in service cost, which was all free for me. What do you all think, am I worrying to much or is there something significantly wrong.

Rough start...
https://youtu.be/lk1dZz9P3CE




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me32

1000 Post Club
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1,829
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Location
fairfield
#2
Stock plugs still I'm guessing maybe time to change. But since it happened after you got the car back take it back and show them and see what the dealer thinks
 


OP
syasar
Messages
78
Likes
6
Thread Starter #4
Yea plugs are most likely the factory ones, I haven’t checked the charge pipe yet. I just realized when the car is idling or the I’m creeping with the clutch out in first with no gas. The car struggle and rev up up and down. It’s like its going to stall and limping forward. It definitely did not do that before. And the pulsing exhaust note is still there, it sound like the car is struggling, even tho rpm is steady’s out eventually, it will still be pulse.
I don’t know what’s going on.


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Messages
188
Likes
83
Location
Baton Rouge
#6
I know i just came to guys for the coolant leak issue, please bear with be because I now have another concern.

So I just gotten my car back form the dealer who sold it to be to have the water pump changed. Ever since I got back it in the car it really didn’t feel right. The car is idling somewhat strangely and the car starts a little rough, the rpm stutter a bit before the steadying out.

Not only that the idle seems to be a little low as well, 600-700rpm at times. The exhaust is doesn’t sound the same either now it’s a deep pulsing note. I can only imagine because of the low idle.

A few times today the car on idle in neutral would sit at low idle and the car with blip on its own to 1200rpm a few times and come back down on it own. The last time it happened all I did was push in the clutch to get into gear. Speaking off the clutch I understand that pressing it down will drop the rpm a bit, but since the rpm is so low it comes down to almost 500rpm, I feel the car about to stall.

Another thing is the synopsper sound like it’s rustling almost on load when I tried the do a pull. Maybe a vacuum leak but would that toss a code. It feels at little sluggish when building boost, but it’s just a feeling. I cant say for sure if Im losing boost. But cruising at the speed limit everything is normal and no overheating issues thus far.

I can’t imagine the car acting like this without my knowledge before I had then water pump changed, I surely going to take it back again and ask why it is acting so odd. But I want to understand the issue at the same time.

I really had two things in mind as to what it might be and like know what you guys think.

1. Even though the water pump job is often routine maintenance and it done often at most shop, I cant say much for the shop the dealership uses. Could they have messed up the timing at all when changing the water pump. I might be stretching but is that possible.

2. Much more likely perhaps the battery was disconnected when doing the water pump, only seem like a natural precaution. And maybe that reset the ecu and the car is relearning the idle like some cars do. This seems more likely, just not sure if a disconnecting the battery could cause the ecu to reset, I figured that usually only happens when the battery is changed.

Not sure what to make you this, I would think the throttle body dirty or something but how could it just get so dirty in a matter of a day.

The car isn’t new, it has 75000km(45000miles); it’s still relatively mint, i can’t imagine it being a lemon. Considering it was form a big GM dealership, I assume they wouldnt be dumb enough to take a lemon car as a trade in, let alone sell it to me. They have already put in roughy $1500 in service cost, which was all free for me. What do you all think, am I worrying to much or is there something significantly wrong.

Rough start...
https://youtu.be/lk1dZz9P3CE




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First thing I would actually do is completely reset the ECU, followed by spark plugs. However, I would pull the codes from autozone or something and check if there are any pending MIL codes before resetting the ECU.

You can disconnect the battery terminals and "cross" the two terminals together and just zip tie them that way for an hour while touching. Come back, then reconnect the battery. Make sure the connectors won't touch the battery while crossed!

Alternatively, you can also pull the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) fuse, but I don't seem to remember which one it is...and google isn't being helpful
 


Intuit

3000 Post Club
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Location
South West Ohio
#7
Could've filled up with garbage gas during the test drives.
This is what the mechanic would've had to deal with...
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...2F93C5722627CC54E6D22F93C5722627CC5&FORM=VIRE
That guy makes it look pretty simple. Short of pulling it back apart to check timing marks, the only 'round-a-bout way of checking for improper valve timing would be to compare vacuum and compression readings. But definitely check for codes before doing *anything* to it.
 


OP
syasar
Messages
78
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6
Thread Starter #9
BTW, I didn't see or hear anything wrong in that video.
The tank of gas is the same that’s has been before the water pump job.
I actually checked for code myself, nothing popped up, but reader is really basic. It really hard to catch the issue on camera, but that time in the video it wasn’t as serve, the car already warm. But what I was trying to show was the bouncing it’s really hard to see but I can really feel the car stuttering. The car sound is off, a little like unequal headers on the Subaru. I expect a steady pulses form the exhaust, it’s more like a few pulse then a short pause and a few more and so on.

The fact is I was never notice this before and it caught me off guard. The car as surged a couple times when it been cold and I can’t help to feel the car has lost some power, I’m needing to adding more gas at low speeds. You get used to driving a car once something is different, I feel like I’m readjusting.

Nevertheless I need to take the car back anyways for them to finish the water pump job as there still plenty of air in the system. It doesn’t hurt if they could have them assess the idle I think I’m completely entitled to that.


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Messages
8
Likes
0
Location
Syracuse
#10
Sound to me like air in the coolent system affecting your idle air control

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Intuit

3000 Post Club
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Location
South West Ohio
#12
OP
syasar
Messages
78
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6
Thread Starter #15
Sorry for not responding just had awful weather here for the last couple of day. I finally got to take the car back to the dealer and have the mechanic check things I wanted him to check. He topped of the coolant, as for the idle he says that it’s all normal. He checked afr’s, vacuum leaks.

I was much more worried about the timing being off, as our camshaft pulleys do not have locking pins and assumed it was very easy to accidentally turn one the pulleys when pulling the water pump. He assured me they used the timing tool to lock the pulley in place, I should given the guy more credit I assume due the the fast turn over time they may have rushed it and hadn’t used them but could you blame me for not trusting someone else’s mechanic.

As for the what I thought was the issue, I narrowed it down to one thing which was that’s when the car revs down (weather be at start or in neutral or coming to a stop) the rpm would bog down to 500rpm and bounce unstably back up to 750. I included a new video. The mechanic said it is because of the waste-gate releasing pressure and the electronic throttle body trying to adjust. What he explained made sense to me.

I guess I was being alittle paranoid, my last car had a quite ticking noise which the mechanic said was normal, two months later rod knock and spun rod bearing.

As the issue isn’t causing anything serve and there no cel. I gonna leave it be and enjoy the car again. As for purging the air out of the coolant Im going to do that this weekend and soon I am gonna bleed the entire system as there is a mixture of different coolant in the system now, just to be safe.

Thanks for bearing with be guys, I’m just getting know the car now.

https://youtu.be/KqII63vO1UA


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OP
syasar
Messages
78
Likes
6
Thread Starter #16
Just thought I bring this back to life, so the problem is resolved. As I said the car idle rough and would do weird things especially cold. I just did a oil change recently myself and the car runs like butter the idle is smooth and none of the roughness like before. My guess is when I got the car form the dealership they either lied and didn’t do a oil or the put the wrong oil or conventional in the car. I feel stupid for trusting them, definitely not happening again hopefully no damage was incurred. Thus far everything is peachy.


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