S280 Swapped Fiesta ST Cranks But Won’t Start - Troubleshooting Help

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#36420
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#1
Hi, I’m kinda at a loss for what to check next in the troubleshooting process. I’ll start with a run down of what was done.

Parts
-Head gasket
-Timing belt
-Xtreme-DI HPFP35
-30% injectors
-S280 Turbo kit
-Whoosh V3 Intercooler
-4 bar T-MAP
-3.5 bar MAP

installation went smoothly after which I started the car with the base tune from stratified started a little rough but mellowed out pretty nicely. This is where everything started to take a turn. Firstly we noticed an oil leak from the front crankshaft seal (a steady stream). Turned off the car and inspected leak along with any codes. Codes read as the following; P0035, P0106, P0236, PO246, P0504, and P2282. A couple relating to a boost solenoid that I forgot to swap over to the s280 during install, an exhaust leak from a missing fire ring from the turbo to the cat, and a bypass valve circuit high from the bypass valve being deleted for a bov. I was done for the night and tried to start it again to park it outside. I tried to start is but it kept dying out. I would like a more reasonable answer to the cause of this. I believe that it was caused from the boost solenoid codes that flipped the car into limp more and was shoving too much fuel and throwing off the afr but I’m not entirely sure on that part. I have to keep on the gas pedal to keep it running and limp it outside.

Next day I take apart timing again to install crankshaft seal and install new Dorman boost solenoid making sure hosing is installed correctly. I go to crank the vehicle and I don’t get anything. Check codes again and I get a MAF circuit high I check the connector and the wiring was cut open. Replace the connector with a pigtail and the code has since not reappeared. I try starting vehicle and I get crank but no start not even sputters or back fires. I checked codes again and nothing shows. I have since checked that I have spark by pulling plug and grounding it, fuel from the smell of it from the exhaust and of it shooting out of the cylinder when checking spark. I haven’t checked for compression but it was running the day before. I then replaced crankshaft sensor believing it was reading wrong causing spark to occur at the wrong time. The result was the same. Pulled all fuses and they all looked to be in working order. This is when I became very confused. My next thought was that ignition timing was somehow altered or completely inverted from went it was suppose to happen but I haven’t checked. I’d like some input on my next steps anything would be very helpful even just verifying that my diagnosis is similar to what you would do is helpful. I just feel a little out of my depth currently.
 


OP
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Member ID
#36420
Messages
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Thread Starter #2
P.S. After cleaning the bottom of the engine and cranking a few more times. I am still finding new oil on the bottom of the engine. I don’t know if I’m somehow building pressure in my crankcase but I have checked my pcv valve and it seems to be working.
Also looked at live data:
Fuel rail pressure ~1200-1800 psi
Ignition timing for cylinder one read at 6 degrees
(Unsure if it’s referring to tdc or not)
 




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