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Some Type of Clutch Related Failure, Help

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#1
Some Type of Clutch Related Failure, Help:

Hi Guys,

So about a month ago I noticed a significant rattle when pressing in the clutch, almost exactly like the sound a dry clutch Ducati makes. Since this isn't a Ducati, I am pretty hecken concerned. I tend to beat the snot out of this little hot rod and suspect my hamfisted shifting has somehow damaged it.

Has the flex-plate come loose? Have I managed to fracture the clutch disc allowing the flakes to rattle around the transmission? Has the trow-out bearing grenaded? Who knows! Exciting exciting mystery. :LOL:

But here is my real question, are there any diag steps I can take short of dropping the tansaxel? Which, of course, I plan to do in due course. I just want to cover all the bases.

Here is a video of the symptom, its on imgur so you have to click the speaker Icon in the top right to hear it.
video of the problem
The clattering sound only occurs when I depress the clutch. In the video you can hear me repeatedly depress and release the clutch.

Here is a good video I found of someone goofing with their clutch
video showing a clutch disassembly guide
Which I plan to use as a guide when removing the transaxel and clutch assembly.

As is my inclination, I am tempted to throw parts at it. i.e. purchase a new performance clutch prior to even dropping the transaxel. However, if it is the throw-out bearing or some component other than the clutch, purchasing it ahead of time would do me little good.

So TL;DR
watch the video
what other diag should I do before dropping the clutch?
If I purchase a performance clutch, which one should I buy?
Please Link any other similar threads you've come across, as I continue to dig and do research myself
Any other advise is welcome

Thanks Guys!

Happy Wrenching

TOM
 


Last edited:
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Ottawa
#2
Try replacing the master and slave cylinders. There is also an actuator in there.

I don't think these are accessible from the outside, but haven't deep dived into the trans on these cars yet..

If you are going to buy a clutch, don't go past "stage 3+" as it will be a nightmare (based on some honda friends cars).

If you got the cash, you're half way to an LSD...
 


TyphoonFiST

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#4
The factory clutch is more than ample for these cars....its been proven at High HP FiSTs to handle. So why even upgrade it ? To me it's a waste of Money. If your car is stock....stick to stock.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 


FiSTerMr

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#5
As far as throw out bearing; in my experience when they are bad, they make noise when clutch pedal is released.

I would definitely bring it in to a trusted transmission shop and have them diagnose it. My guess is that they will recommend a full clutch kit and flywheel, as that is the easiest and most profitable for them. But see if you can pull specific info from the tech before committing to anything, he might give you insight if you wanna DIY it.

2017 Magnetic FiST w/Recaros
 


OP
M
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Thread Starter #6
Hi guys, here's an update.

Took the car to the dealership, since I have the extended premium care and power train warranty until 2023. They said they would be able to diag it without disassembly (which, of course I found doubtful). Low and behold I get a call asking if I'd approve 1600 dollars (8h) in disassembly which I would be on the hook for if it turned out to outside of warranty coverage. I decided to get back on this and do more research.

At this point I am pretty confident that I blew the spring plate.

I am fairly certain it is not the throw-out bearing given the sound is is not a squeal but instead a rattle. Here is a bad throw-out bearing:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FcDOqHav7o&list=PL9eMQQk1d7EIF1SfXO-MyDETuiOUvBWBD&index=30&t=0s


Here is someone else with a similar sound from different cars where the spring plate is the known or suspected failure:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aUs0QFgNoc&list=PL9eMQQk1d7EIF1SfXO-MyDETuiOUvBWBD&index=32&t=0s

View: https://youtu.be/y7DE4iPLOhE?list=PL9eMQQk1d7EIF1SfXO-MyDETuiOUvBWBD&t=20


A good visual of what I think broke (spring plate):
View: https://youtu.be/9UmrCl2nLKM?list=PL9eMQQk1d7EIF1SfXO-MyDETuiOUvBWBD&t=487


Explanation of how spring plates fail:
View: https://youtu.be/sN1AOukOxaw?t=210


Looks like I'll be repairing this one myself, as I doubt the dealership will cover a blown spring plate.

Thanks!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #8
Also to save anyone else the trouble of finding these numbers, If you have warranty questions

Here is the number for CPO warranties in the US:
Ford and Lincoln Protect Prior Approval:
1 800 321 7790

And here is the number for Ford's own warranties:
ESP Customer Assistance Center:
1 800 521 4144
 


OP
M
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Thread Starter #9
Hi Guys,

So here is another update! Transmission and K-member are out. I was mistaken, there is no springplate on the clutch assembly, this car has a DMF. I have purchased a new DMF, and plan to install it, however I have discovered another extremely troubling symptom. Schmoo on the hot side of the turbo!

Looks like the turbo bearings are gone. My dad thinks that this may have been the original issue since there is not visible damage to the DMF or difference between the original and the replacement part.

We still plan to replace the DMF with the new part before re-assembly.

I have been searching, but am unable to find more information on the factory turbo, a video detailing how to rebuild it, and where to find replacement bearings for it.

Ford only seems to list the entire assembly, and $700 is too steep for my rather shallow pockets atm.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/turbocharger-assy-7834465-1

Here are some images from the recent work:
View: https://imgur.com/a/sdlUB8i


Thanks!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #11
Buy a used turbo or upgrade.

Perfect time.

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk
As sad as it makes me, I am absolutely strapped atm and cannot afford to throw upgrades at her. I guess a used turbo is my best option, although I would prefer to rebuild the one I have if I can.
 


FiSTerMr

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#12
Stock turbos pop up for sale on here pretty often

2017 Magnetic FiST w/Recaros
 


Intuit

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#13
DMFs are NOT cheap. I believe you have to pull the engine to get to it. Definitely a good idea to verify prior to purchase. But of course you have to have alternate transportation while waiting on the replacement, should one verify that it is the problem. As long as it hasn't been installed, you can still send it back. (though probably with a restocking fee)
 


kivnul

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#14
DMF is accessible with a dropped tranny. Had mine and cluch replaced while I had a LSD installed. Shop quoted 1 extra hour for the clutch and DMF.
 




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