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Steering Rack Replacement?

Messages
159
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175
Location
Santa Fe, NM, USA
#1
Well it's a long story and I'm not sure what to cut out. Sometime in January I developed some creaks in the front of the car. I'd hear a small creak or rattle when shifting into 2nd and 3rd. I didn't feel anything through the clutch or shifter so I never thought it was a clutch or gearbox issue. I checked my 2-pt brace and all upgraded mounts, everything was tight and no worn out bushings. Steering may have become a bit vague at highway speeds, but it was hard to tell because I had just put on tall winter tires at the same time.

A few weeks later I noticed a clunk in the front left suspension when turning into my driveway - right turn, up a ramp, while braking for the gate card reader, driver side suspension loaded. Driveway usually has some dirt or gravel at that spot. Through the wheel it felt like the LF wheel was skipping. I mistook that sensation for ABS activation. This left wheel "skipping" and clunking led me to the local dealership for the first time.

First time at the dealership they had the car for 5 hours only to tell me that it was my fender liners rubbing the tire, which I knew was wrong. This was after the service advisor drove the car around and felt and heard the clunk in the LF wheel area on low speed bumps. Sure... Got the car home and decided to see if the wheel would move while parked. Sure enough there was 1/2" of play. I went back and showed them with my own hands. They then agreed that the car should go on an alignment rack to check the alignment and tie rods, but I had to make an apointment for next week to do so.

A week later I get the car back in for alignment. They say my specs are off and order new tie rods both sides to be replaced under warranty. Tie rods were back ordered and this was right when everything was slowing down due to COVID-19. 3 weeks later the parts came in. Two days after dropping the car off, they call to say they don't have the tie rod end tool for the ST and need to call around to other area shops to find one, or order it which will take more time. 3 days after that they say they have the tool. 2 days after that the car is ready.

SA warns me when handing over keys that there is still a rattle, which he now wants to blame on my motor mounts. Well the car is now worse than before. Driving in a circle the steering weight seems to load/unload and doesn't hold the turn consistently. Rattle when taking off in 1st, 2nd, 3rd. I went straight back after test drive. Now the SA says he thinks my steering gear is damaged and slipping. Says it would not be covered under warranty because I have some curbing on my passenger side wheels and an impact, not a factory defective part, is the cause.

At this point I'm pretty frustrated at their willingness to give me back a messed up car that hasn't been 100% fixed, twice. Nonetheless I asked for a quote to replace the steering rack. They quoted me $1,380 less a $225 core charge on the part, so $1,155.

1. Do you think I should keep working with this dealership, or try to find a different garage to do the repair? They're the only Ford dealership in town.
2. Do the symptoms sound like it would be a bad steering gear and pinion? Is there a way to confirm the diagnosis?
3. Would you take this kind of repair to an outside garage? The dealership is quoting 4.5 hours at $199/hr and $351 for the part. Going rate for independent garages here is $120/hr and the part is listed on Tasca for $250, so maybe I'd save $200 or so, assuming they use the book hours.

Any advice is appreciated. I want to get this done so I can enjoy my car again. Right now it's a rattle trap that I'm not proud of and I'm afraid to drive hard.
 


Last edited:

MagnetiseST

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Dania Beach
#2
They would REALLY need to prove that the wheel was curbed by you hitting a curb and not a pothole or something. If you did indeed have an impact on the passenger side of the car and the rack is damaged from that, then yes I would agree with the SA. However if you've NEVER had an accident or anything like that then fight what they are saying. You'd have to impact something pretty hard to damage the rack and pinion assembly. You'd have noticed a terrible alignment, and bent stuff under the car.
 


OP
Booster
Messages
159
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Location
Santa Fe, NM, USA
Thread Starter #3
They would REALLY need to prove that the wheel was curbed by you hitting a curb and not a pothole or something. If you did indeed have an impact on the passenger side of the car and the rack is damaged from that, then yes I would agree with the SA. However if you've NEVER had an accident or anything like that then fight what they are saying. You'd have to impact something pretty hard to damage the rack and pinion assembly. You'd have noticed a terrible alignment, and bent stuff under the car.
To be more specific he said that any damage from a road hazard, pot hole, act of god, or wheel impact is not covered under the factory warranty. So whether it was the curbing or something else, it seems like I'm SOL when it comes to Ford helping with the steering rack. I guess I'm lucky they even did the tie rods. He said those are really easy to get approved for warranty coverage. Of course I don't feel lucky because my car is still jacked up.
 


Messages
486
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419
Location
Boston
#4
Go to a different dealership.

They already have shown they'd rather shoot from the hip (and miss) than do a proper diagnosis. How the hell does one place go from shot tie-rode ends to motor mounts to possibly steering rack?

Unless something is missing from the story, it's crazy to me that they replaced the tie rod end without confirming it failed. It's usually pretty easy to see that. I find it even crazier that this dealership didn't have a tie-rod end tool. The FiST isn't a Ferrari, I'm sure one of the many tie-rod tools a shop should have would work. Go to a different dealership. This dealership inept at best.

Some questions: Did the steering wheel have a 1/2" of play in it or did the wheel+tire have a 1/2" of play in it? Does your steering feel like garbage when driving normally? Did you actually hit something? A damaged steering rack is something you notice nearly all the time when driving. Especially if the gear is damaged (it would bind and/or the car would feel floaty at times). But based on what you've described, it doesn't sound like a steering rack.

Lots of things can clunk when going over bumps that I would check first. Swaybar links, ball joints, struts, strut mounts/bearings, control arms, aftermarket exhausts on loose hangers, loose hood support, or other loose parts (including broken motor mounts) are all things that should be checked. Some are easier to diagnose as failed than others, but a competent mechanic should be able to do it.

Like MagnetiseST said, you'd have to hit something pretty hard for it to damage the rack. I'm talking, bent/broken wheel hard. Curbing alone is unlikely to damage a steering rack.
 


OP
Booster
Messages
159
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Location
Santa Fe, NM, USA
Thread Starter #5
Go to a different dealership.

They already have shown they'd rather shoot from the hip (and miss) than do a proper diagnosis. How the hell does one place go from shot tie-rode ends to motor mounts to possibly steering rack?

Unless something is missing from the story, it's crazy to me that they replaced the tie rod end without confirming it failed. It's usually pretty easy to see that. I find it even crazier that this dealership didn't have a tie-rod end tool. The FiST isn't a Ferrari, I'm sure one of the many tie-rod tools a shop should have would work. Go to a different dealership. This dealership inept at best.

Some questions: Did the steering wheel have a 1/2" of play in it or did the wheel+tire have a 1/2" of play in it? Does your steering feel like garbage when driving normally? Did you actually hit something? A damaged steering rack is something you notice nearly all the time when driving. Especially if the gear is damaged (it would bind and/or the car would feel floaty at times). But based on what you've described, it doesn't sound like a steering rack.

Lots of things can clunk when going over bumps that I would check first. Swaybar links, ball joints, struts, strut mounts/bearings, control arms, aftermarket exhausts on loose hangers, loose hood support, or other loose parts (including broken motor mounts) are all things that should be checked. Some are easier to diagnose as failed than others, but a competent mechanic should be able to do it.

Like MagnetiseST said, you'd have to hit something pretty hard for it to damage the rack. I'm talking, bent/broken wheel hard. Curbing alone is unlikely to damage a steering rack.
I agree, it seems like they’re guessing and don’t have the skills or don’t care to properly diagnose the problem. I bought the car used w/ 9k miles and the right front wheel had a sharp gouge in one spot. Then back in September at 25k miles I curbed it, nose in, going about 15mph. This was after an 11 hour shift, 2 beers when 1 would have done, and well it happened. The thing is the clunking didn’t start until 3-4 months later.

The wheel/tire has play, there’s no play in the steering column itself. The steering feel is still solid, but there’s some vagueness at higher speeds. My problem is that the next closest dealer is 53 miles away.

I think I’m going to jack up the front end and go through as much as I can: sway bar links, subframe bolts, recheck the rear motor mount. Those are all good suggestions.

The rear hatch has developed a rattle now too. I’ve got some work ahead of me.
 


Messages
486
Likes
419
Location
Boston
#6
I agree, it seems like they’re guessing and don’t have the skills or don’t care to properly diagnose the problem. I bought the car used w/ 9k miles and the right front wheel had a sharp gouge in one spot. Then back in September at 25k miles I curbed it, nose in, going about 15mph. This was after an 11 hour shift, 2 beers when 1 would have done, and well it happened. The thing is the clunking didn’t start until 3-4 months later.

The wheel/tire has play, there’s no play in the steering column itself. The steering feel is still solid, but there’s some vagueness at higher speeds. My problem is that the next closest dealer is 53 miles away.

I think I’m going to jack up the front end and go through as much as I can: sway bar links, subframe bolts, recheck the rear motor mount. Those are all good suggestions.

The rear hatch has developed a rattle now too. I’ve got some work ahead of me.
Just as a heads-up sometimes it can be difficult to see play in suspension parts when the car is totally jacked up. The spring force+suspension geometry when raised sometimes keeps things in place.

That stinks about the nearest dealer being so far. Maybe find a local shop that's trustworthy? These cars don't have much special to them, anyone that has experience with modern cars should be able to find out the problem.

I wouldn't worry about the hatch. Mine's been rattling for 30k miles now.
 


Last edited:

SteveS

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Osage Beach, MO, USA
#7
Why worry about 53 miles to the dealer? I bought my Fiesta ST from a dealer 48 miles away and my F150 from a dealer 75 miles away (they are actually owned by the same company). Those are all the choices I have. I take them back there for repairs and often for maintenance too.
 


kivnul

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Deer Park, WA
#8
The steering rack is held down to the subframe with 3 hard to access bolts. I had a somewhat similar issue and one of the bolts had worked itself almost completely out. Pop her up on some jackstands and find the 3 bolts.

1588127744703.png
 


PunkST

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Location
Menasha
#11
Check your lower ball joint as well. One owner already had theirs fail with lots of side to side wheel play and wandering steering feel.
 


HardBoiledEgg

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Fontana
#12
For reference I'm a service advisor at Ford

I'm in SoCal and our labor rate is 135
Another dealer I worked was 165. Where is that labor rate? Sign me up



Lastly. Find a new dealer
 


MagnetiseST

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Location
Dania Beach
#14
For reference I'm a service advisor at Ford

I'm in SoCal and our labor rate is 135
Another dealer I worked was 165. Where is that labor rate? Sign me up



Lastly. Find a new dealer
seriously $199/hr is almost luxury brand rate.
 


Messages
445
Likes
520
Location
Metro Detroit
#15
Coming from a double control arm background the primary cause for a clunk while turning is the Ball Joints with Tie Rods secondary. I would suggest that you find another dealer because to me it seems that the dealer you have now is overcharging you and they also don't know what they are doing. Seriously, a Ford Dealership that has to borrow a tool from another dealer? That is a service department that is only qualified to do an oil change.
 




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