symptoms of an APIM total failure?

[M-Sport fan]

When shutting down the engine, and then trying to eject the CD I was listening to (I know, I know, but I just DESPISE dealing with USBs/MP3s altogether, both for sound/compression, AND other reasons), it would not eject, at all no matter what I did (turn the engine/accessories completely off, restart, etc.

So then I tried hitting the master reset button, and the screen went TOTALLY black and none of the radio buttons did anything, not even the on/off. The CD is still stuck in there currently.

Should I even check the relays/fuses/etc. or does this mean that the APIM and whole system is fried??

The Sync 3 has never ever been updated at all, since the car was picked up new in 10/2016 (if that could even remotely have a bearing on this problem??).

Thanks in advance.

 

[CarGuy]

Pull fuse #10 behind the glove and see if that resets it.

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[M-Sport fan]

Pull fuse #10 behind the glove and see if that resets it.

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THANK YOU!

I will try this when it stops raining, and then try the battery disconnect if that does not work.

If I must replace the APIM/screen, just how involved is that labor-wise to DIY?
(How hard is it to get all of the bezels, etc. off to get to it??)

 

[CarGuy]

Pretty easy. Just watch any video about updating from Sync 2 to Sync 3 and it is essentially the same process.

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[the duke]

Pretty easy. Just watch any video about updating from Sync 2 to Sync 3 and it is essentially the same process.

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Wait, what? I never did this when upgrading to SYNC 3 and there was never an issue for me.

 

[CarGuy]

Wait, what? I never did this when upgrading to SYNC 3 and there was never an issue for me.

You asked about replacing the APIM, it's the same process. The APIM is attached to the touchscreen.

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[the duke]

You asked about replacing the APIM, it's the same process. The APIM is attached to the touchscreen.

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Yes. I removed my 2014 SYNC 2 screen and AIPM, and replaced it with a 2016+ AIPM and screen already running SYNC 3. I never removed Fuse 10, and I never found any instructions to do so.

Why would you have to remove Fuse 10 if replacing the AIPM and screen?

 

[CarGuy]

I'm talking about 2 separate things here. Try pulling fuse #10 to possibly reset the APIM. I find that I still have to do that from time to time. Nothing else will reset the system except that. IF that doesn't work and you have to REPLACE the APIM then it's the same process that you used when you upgraded from Sync 2 to Sync 3.

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[CarGuy]

Fuse #10 is in the fuse box behind the glove box. Remove glove box and pull the fuse for like 30 seconds and then reinstall it.

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[the duke]

I'm talking about 2 separate things here. Try pulling fuse #10 to possibly reset the APIM. I find that I still have to do that from time to time. Nothing else will reset the system except that. IF that doesn't work and you have to REPLACE the APIM then it's the same process that you used when you upgraded from Sync 2 to Sync 3.

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Ah, I understand now. Yes, two separate issues.

Also;
https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-fiesta-2014-2018-fuses-and-relay

 

[haste]

How long did you wait for the screen to start working? I thought mine conked out the other week, but after about two minutes I got the silly maintenance message on the screen and once that completed everything worked normally.

 

[M-Sport fan]

How long did you wait for the screen to start working? I thought mine conked out the other week, but after about two minutes I got the silly maintenance message on the screen and once that completed everything worked normally.

I waited a while on startup of the engine, since yes, mine was also taking a L-O-N-G time occasionally for the screen to startup.

But I knew something was wrong when it refused to eject the CD at all (FIRST time that EVER happened!), and gave me a "NO disc" message on the screen, (when I KNOW that the disc is still in there), before I hit the reset (trying to get the CD out), and then it went black no matter what I did.

 

[Intuit]

Disconnecting the battery should have the same impact (albeit wider) as pulling the fuse.

Bought mine around the same time; no $800 Nav. (since I already had a more-capable and up-to-date Garmin) It won't update to the latest Sync without some hackary. Don't recall what the current revision in mine is, but can check if needed.

If you have anything plugged into any USB data ports, remove it. It begins accessing external devices at or before the splash screen. If you can find a way to get that disc out, that may help.
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/sync-3-error-playlist-is-corrupt-resolved.26011/

Also, besides rebooting it, the next troubleshooting step with any computer is to strip it down. That basically means unplugging everything except power and display.

What are the key-combinations for diag or test mode on this?

 

[M-Sport fan]

I do not now, nor have I ever had ANYTHING plugged into the USB ports, not even a phone charger! I just do not use them at all.

I DO have an Ultra Gauge plugged into the OBD2 port though, but this has no direct interconnect to the infotainment system or screen APIM, correct?

 

[Capri to ST]

When my APIM failed, it was after the system attempted an over-the-air WiFi update which didn't work. I got an error message which said bad installation file, and most of the functions didn't work, including voice recognition. I was on warranty, so the Ford dealer did some diagnostics and eventually got some kind of failure code, and replaced the APIM. They then updated Sync 3 to version 3.0 using a USB drive, and everything has worked fine ever since. That was around three years ago, good luck to you.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Since I could not even tell which dash box fuse was 'fuse 10', I just started the car, and the CD ejected, and the system master reset as soon as I turned it on.

I guess that the whole Sync 3 system just freezes every once in a while, and needs time with the car off to re-boot?

@Capri to ST; now you have me worried about parking in the driveway near my modem router located there, and signing into my wifi to get the updates, as I just cannot afford a new Sync 3 system/APIM right now with everything else going on (medical expenses, needed equipment to start riding {road cycling} and getting back into condition again, brakes for the FiST, fixing the passenger side skirt, etc.).

Was it absolutely the fault of a 'corrupted' file, or was it a very weak wifi signal to blame for the failure?
(I would be literally 6 feet away from a strong, reliable wifi source.)

 

[M-Sport fan]

Also; could the in touch screen compass be reset with Sync 3 updates (it has been non-functional for over two years), or is Forscan the only way to do a reset of that function?
I do not have navigation.

Do the Sync 3 updates even net me anything at all if I do not even have my phone synced up to the system?
Are there ANY other benefits to the upgrades besides improving that function??

 

[Capri to ST]

@Capri to ST; now you have me worried about parking in the driveway near my modem router located there, and signing into my wifi to get the updates, as I just cannot afford a new Sync 3 system/APIM right now with everything else going on (medical expenses, needed equipment to start riding {road cycling} and getting back into condition again, brakes for the FiST, fixing the passenger side skirt, etc.).

Was it absolutely the fault of a 'corrupted' file, or was it a very weak wifi signal to blame for the failure?
(I would be literally 6 feet away from a strong, reliable wifi source.)

It was kind of a chicken and egg thing- was it a corrupted file or a bad APIM which was exposed by the attempted file installation? The dealer mechanic who figured it out and fixed it thought it was the latter, and I think he was probably right.
I still have mine connected to Wi-Fi, although I don't know why because it has never updated over the air in the 5 plus years that I've had the car, but it hasn't caused any problems either since the repair. I guess I think it might still happen sometime, and it might be beneficial.

 

[JJ_FiestaST]

I have a 2014 ST and twice now the POS Sync 2 has frozen to the point where turning the car off will not fix it. Then next morning I go to the car and it’s completely dead and needs a jump. After that all is well again. Sync 2 is really the worst….