Track and daily break pad recommendations

[HABANERO_ST]

Hello guys, I will be going to my local track here in SoCal Adams raceway. And hopefully hit up willow spring a few times this year.

I am looking for recommendations in break pads.
I recently did break lines, wavespec rotors and ebc red stuff pads.

I was hopping the pads would hold up a bit but they did not. With that being said,
What would your recommendations be for a better break pad. The car is my daily.

My current suspension setup is:
TD 1.2s 15x8 with nitto neo gens
Swift springs with stock struts
Eibach sway bars
TB traction bar
Wavespec rotors with ebc red stuff pads and whoosh lines

 

[Jabbit]

EBC yellows or maybe even blue

 

[the duke]

Brake.

If it's your first time out a nice summer/mild track pad will be fine. Chance are you won't be brave enough to warrant something aggressive like Hawk Blues. You will absolutely want better fluid before pads. I suggest some Motul 600/660, Castrol SRF if you can find it. A nice high bioling DOT 4 fluid. That will cause fade first, less so pad compound.

EBC yellow, Hawk HPS/+.

 

[Jabbit]

EBC orange is a full race pad, don't use those.

 

[the duke]

EBC orange is a full race pad, don't use those.

Shit, you're right. I had it mixed with the yellow.

 

[ronmcdon]

Orange is not that bad at all for daily driving. Had orange front, yellow rear. I don't care about brake dust so never pay attention to that. Otherwise its not squeaky. Very street friendly. I don't like it as a track pad and prefer the oems with more aggressive bite.. The front orange had a lot of melting and didn't last long. Then again I was doing tracks like Streets and Buttonwillow, Chuckwalla where it gets hot. Also did back to back 20 min sessions at times.

I now use Hawk DTC-30s front HP Plus rear. Very good for the track and more aggressive bit but they are not good for rotor wear. Also very squeaky but to me good pad otherwise. Tolerable to me for the street, and very good for the track although a bit difficult to modulate braking as it feels like an on & off switch but at least can still trail brake okay. Wish we had Endless mx72 plus pads for the Fiesta.

 

[HABANERO_ST]

Yea I’m running motul 600,
Thanks guys so yellow stuff or hawk hps+
I’m wanna get used to this set up before I get fortune auto coilovers.
And from personal experience what do you guys run.

Thank you guys !

 

[D1JL]

What would your recommendations be for a better break pad. The car is my daily.

Understand that the more aggressive the BRAKE pad is, the faster you will wear down rotors.
Maybe for a daily driver it is better to replace pads more often.

 

[Cdnmr2v6]

I've had really good luck with HP+ for street & autox. They were a bit squeaky at first, but mellowed out pretty quickly. Lots of dust though, so I'm going to try EBC Yellows up front and see how they do.

 

[the duke]

Orange is not that bad at all for daily driving. Had orange front, yellow rear. I don't care about brake dust so never pay attention to that. Otherwise its not squeaky. Very street friendly. I don't like it as a track pad and prefer the oems with more aggressive bite.. The front orange had a lot of melting and didn't last long. Then again I was doing tracks like Streets and Buttonwillow, Chuckwalla where it gets hot. Also did back to back 20 min sessions at times.

I now use Hawk DTC-30s front HP Plus rear. Very good for the track and more aggressive bit but they are not good for rotor wear. Also very squeaky but to me good pad otherwise. Tolerable to me for the street, and very good for the track although a bit difficult to modulate braking as it feels like an on & off switch but at least can still trail brake okay. Wish we had Endless mx72 plus pads for the Fiesta.

DTC-30s slowed my car down like hitting a tree but man they scored the rotors and the fallout was hell on my wheels. Took an entire year of polishing and compound to remove the backed on rust from that compound. I won't run them again for that reason. Didn't help I ran them in the wet though, so it started rust immediately.

You're in SoCal so your temps year round are more advantageous to run track pads all year/longer. Much like tire compound, here in Northeast Ohio even in June it's too cold in the morning sometimes to safety drive with track pads in the morning. This needs to be taken into consideration depending on where you live. I usually swap pads the weekend before and lunch them at the track, so I need to switch back to a set of regular ceramic road pads after a session anyways. Gives me a chance to inspect the rotors and seals for wear, etc.

As far as rotors per D1JL, running some Centric blanks is best. Crossing compounds on the same rotor can have detrimental effects for a bit until a new scale layer is bedded in, pending if the rotor is abrasion or adhesion based compound(s). Centrics are also cheap and consumable. If this becomes a thing, cheap rotors are best since you're not lunching a 200 dollar per rotor every season, you only spend 60.

 

[kevinatfms]

Porterfield R4. Super aggressive once warm but with a linear feel and they can take a ridiculous amount of heat.

For autocross/trackcross, i stick with the stock "S" pads from Ford. They have a great amount of bite but are still able to handle the on/off heat of a fast autocross session.

And always blank rotors. Cheapest i can find with the hub coated for corrosion resistance. Usually around $20 on Rock Auto.

 

[slyez]

I have found the EBC Yellow too low temp for track use, but the Blue has been really good for use daily and also at track. Havent used the orange in front, but they are good in the rear. If for stock brakes the EBC blue front and rear is really good for dual use. If you are running much more than stock power then orange may be better up front. Also have had good luck with carbotech/Gloc 10 and 12.

 

[ronmcdon]

I wonder if the EBC RP1 pads can be streetable at all with warmer climates and maybe conservative driving the first couple of mins.
I like that EBC advertises it as being a easy to modulate pad, but not quite sure one could drive it on the street and track.
One qualm I have of the Fiesta ST is I find it difficult to modulate the braking. Feels like an on and off switch.

Another pad that's interested me is the Endless MX72, which works as a street and track pad, as well as being easier to modulate the breaking.
Interestingly I see it on a UK website but cannot find it anywhere else. Maybe will contact Ron to see if he can get it
https://www.c1-r.co.uk/product/endless-ford-fiesta-st-mk7-front-mx72-brake-pads/

Not a big fan of the EBC orange. I ran the orange fronts (yellow rears) and got them to melt on the track, although to be fair ran higher 90-100f temps at times.
Bite was pretty mild but slightly easier to modulate than the Hawk DTC-30s.
My understanding was the EBC RP1's would be the next step up from the EBC Orange, so interested in checking that out, especially if easier to modulate than the RP1s

 

[M-Sport fan]

I believe that M-Sport (Ford World Rally team) is still using Endless pads and fluids in their current Puma Rally 1 WRC car.

 

[ronmcdon]

Hear great things about Endless pads. Just purchased a set of MX72's for my Evo (close to stock power) that I hope to get on the track again late this year.
Supposedly good all around pads for street and track driving, known to be excellent for brake modulation. Also easy on the rotors unlike the Hawk DTC-30s I currently have.

 

[slyez]

We are using the RP-1 EBC pads on our EBC brake kit now, and the pads are really good on track. They do need a little heat, but we did drive them to the track last weekend and it wasn't life threatening, but I would expect the pad life to be greatly reduced.

 

[the duke]

DTC-30s slowed my car down like hitting a tree but man they scored the rotors and the fallout was hell on my wheels. Took an entire year of polishing and compound to remove the backed on rust from that compound. I won't run them again for that reason. Didn't help I ran them in the wet though, so it started rust immediately.

You're in SoCal so your temps year round are more advantageous to run track pads all year/longer. Much like tire compound, here in Northeast Ohio even in June it's too cold in the morning sometimes to safety drive with track pads in the morning. This needs to be taken into consideration depending on where you live. I usually swap pads the weekend before and lunch them at the track, so I need to switch back to a set of regular ceramic road pads after a session anyways. Gives me a chance to inspect the rotors and seals for wear, etc.

As far as rotors per D1JL, running some Centric blanks is best. Crossing compounds on the same rotor can have detrimental effects for a bit until a new scale layer is bedded in, pending if the rotor is abrasion or adhesion based compound(s). Centrics are also cheap and consumable. If this becomes a thing, cheap rotors are best since you're not lunching a 200 dollar per rotor every season, you only spend 60.

Don’t listen to him, he’s a fraud.

 

[Bizzareo]

Whatever you do. DO NOT BUY G-LOC. What a pile of expensive sh-t. Squeak after one light touch of brake, squeak while driving. twice the price.

Ebc yellows all day. I'm literally throwing out the glocs in two weeks with 70% pad left

 

[M-Sport fan]

Whatever you do. DO NOT BUY G-LOC. What a pile of expensive sh-t. Squeak after one light touch of brake, squeak while driving. twice the price.

Ebc yellows all day. I'm literally throwing out the glocs in two weeks with 70% pad left

I know you are speaking to their TRACK grade pads, but I was at one time considering their street and/or 'autocross' pads for the OEM brakes.

Thanks for that feedback, as I will now reconsider that option, even for future brake pad replacements.

 

[Bizzareo]

I needed pads summer 2020, only GLOC was available. For similar to EBC yellow it cost me over $400 CAD.

EBC all the way. Some guys like the HAWK 5.0. EBC just has it figured out. Will go that route for my Camaro once I get the old drums out.