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Trouble Installing Pierce 6 Point Brace

SrsBsns

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#1
Looking for a little help...

I bought a new Pierce 6 point brace and tried to install it over the weekend.

I lifted the car up and put it on ramps to load the suspension.

I removed the 6 bolts necessary, but when lining up the brace, I could not get the holes to align. I tried lifting the car off the ramps to unload the suspension but still couldn't get it to line up.

In the process, I managed to start cross threading one of the holes... The brace was close and I could get a bolt to start threading, but it must not have been lined up properly and I forced it.

I searched but couldn't find any information other than "sometimes the holes don't line up." Anyone have any advice on getting the brace to install?

I'm probably going to take the car to a shop and get it put on since I cross threaded a hole and need to get that fixed, but maybe this will help others in the future.
 


jeffreylyon

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#2
I had a similar problem - I couldn't get enough leverage to align the bracket while the car was on stands. I ended up taking it to my dealer and we put it on with the help of a big aluminum pry bar.
 


OP
SrsBsns

SrsBsns

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Thread Starter #3
Where did you pry it from? There's not many points that give you any real leverage.

I got the front 4 bolts to line up just fine but couldn't get the rear 2 aligned. No matter where I pushed or pulled, I couldn't get it to line up.
 


jeffreylyon

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#4
We stuck the *aluminum* bar through one of the mounting holes and pried against the threads while starting the sibling bolt. One of the thicker nylon pry bars would probably do the trick, too.
 


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#5
if the hole is like 80% there then I would use a dremel and widen the hole a little. mine was a pain also, but I got it with some prying.
 


OP
SrsBsns

SrsBsns

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Thread Starter #6
So I took the car to a shop today to get it looked at. They said that to fix it, they'd need to pull the subframe to tap the frame.

I know I made a mistake with cross threading the bolt, but I'm trying not to pay through the nose to get that fixed. Are there ways to tap the hole without having to pull the full subframe?

Not my car in the pic, but these are the two that are cross threaded. The one on the driver's side is easy. The one on the passenger side is the troubling one.

Picture1.jpg
 


jeffreylyon

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#7
Sorry to hear about your trouble. If I remember correctly the frame "rail" where the subframe mounts on the passenger side (outlined in your picture) is curved up and the subframe is thicker there. I would think that you'd need to drop the subframe to get access to the hole.
 


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#8
If you can thread a bolt in, you can thread a tap in the clean it up unless truly destroyed. Just need the right setup. I would really try to avoid dropping the subframe
 


OP
SrsBsns

SrsBsns

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Thread Starter #9
If you can thread a bolt in, you can thread a tap in the clean it up unless truly destroyed. Just need the right setup. I would really try to avoid dropping the subframe
So the bolt threads about 80% in, but not 100%. It threaded that far without much effort, which is why I didn't think I had cross threaded it until it got to 80% and gave me a lot of resistance.

How can I assess how bad it is? I don't believe that it's truly destroyed but I don't know how to evaluate it.

I REALLY don't want to drop the subframe, and more so, I REALLY don't want to pay a shop to drop the subframe, especially just to tap a hole.
 


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#10
it's simple, but not easy. you remove the brace and bolts. carefully run a tap up any holes that need it. make sure the bolt is chased or replaced. thread it in to confirm. finally reinstall making sure not to crossthread again.
 


jeffreylyon

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#11
it's simple, but not easy. you remove the brace and bolts. carefully run a tap up any holes that need it. make sure the bolt is chased or replaced. thread it in to confirm. finally reinstall making sure not to crossthread again.
Maybe - it's kinda strange that OP got 80% of the way before buggering the threads so bad that he couldn't go farther. If the threads are buggered 75% of the way in and really buggered the last 5% then running a tap through might not be the right fix and OP may just end up pulling all the remaining threads out when torquing the bolt. OP might have to drill out and tap to the next larger size and use a larger fastener or a Keensert.
 


OP
SrsBsns

SrsBsns

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Thread Starter #12
Maybe - it's kinda strange that OP got 80% of the way before buggering the threads so bad that he couldn't go farther. If the threads are buggered 75% of the way in and really buggered the last 5% then running a tap through might not be the right fix and OP may just end up pulling all the remaining threads out when torquing the bolt. OP might have to drill out and tap to the next larger size and use a larger fastener or a Keensert.
That's what I'm concerned about too.

Is a Keensert the same as a helicoil? And would I be able to install one without needing to drop the subframe?
 


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#13
it's a long ass bolt. you should have plenty of threads to chase unless you tried 5 times crossthreading every time.
 


jeffreylyon

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#14
That's what I'm concerned about too.

Is a Keensert the same as a helicoil? And would I be able to install one without needing to drop the subframe?
Yes, a Keensert is a helicoil. You might be able to drill and tap the hole and install a helicoil but, if I remember properly, it would be tight quarters.
 




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